From West to East: Travel Interview

For decades India has been a most sought after holiday destination for westerners.  Since The Beatles made their first pilgrimage to Transcendental Meditation retreat in Riskikesh in 1968, India has been ever popularised and its image imbued with a sense of exotic mystery, spirituality and an essence of the unknown. Indian aesthetics are used throughout western popular culture and fashion, with designers in film, television and the music industry looking to India’s rich and beautiful culture and have woven it into western contemporary culture. To the western mind, India is a land rich with oriental magic, the ultimate escape for those wishing to ditch the overcast cold which plagues the UK most of the year.  Advancements of globalisation mean it is now easier than ever to make these long haul journeys across the world to experience it firsthand.

Travel and Deal interviews Raj Singh Gore, a young British National of Punjabi origin about his recent trip with friend Sophie (also a young British National) as they travel to various destinations in Northern India.

On the banks of the Ganga (photo credit – Raj Singh Gore)

T+D:  So first of all, tell me why you chose India as a holiday destination. What in particular drew you to travel here?

RSG:  I traveled to my family home in Punjab earlier last year, in April, to attend the wedding of a family friend. I spent time with my cousin as he showed me around Punjab, and after seeing how amazed I was by the sites and scenes in Punjab said to me “If you think this is good, just wait until you see the rest of India!” and urged me to travel to other areas. I was just so intrigued by how vast India is, and amazed at how such a variety of cultures, landscapes and wildlife can exist within the same country. I mean, you’ve got beaches, snowy mountains, deserts, forests, hill tops and flat lands all in the same country.  And the weather is so different from North to South. I wanted to explore different places in India and experience the rich variety the country has to offer, rather than only going to Punjab.

T+D: So as you’ve told me, this isn’t your first time travelling to India. How many times in the past have you visited?

Previous to this trip, I have been twice. Once when I was very young, I don’t remember much of that trip, and then again last year. The first two trips were with family, and this time I traveled with my friend Sophie.

T+D: As you mentioned before, this was Sophie’s first time travelling to India, and your first time without your family; did you have any concerns about that?

RSG: I was very nervous on the flight to India from the UK, but also excited at the same time. As soon as I arrived in India I realized that I had to learn to be independent, and the whole experience definitely has taught me that.

T+D: How did you travel once you arrived in India?

Our flight departed from Heathrow Airport in London, and our connecting flight was from Bahrain straight to Indira Gandhi International Airport in New Delhi.

While in Delhi we took the metro to travel around the city, which was absolutely amazing! The Delhi metro system is even better than the London Underground! It is much easier to use and more efficient.

We originally planned to stay at a hotel in Paharganj, but our hotel wasn’t as nice as it seemed on the website and we wanted to escape the hectic atmosphere of Delhi. So we found a tourist information center and booked a tourist taxi straight to Jaipur, Rajasthan. Once in Jaipur we used a mixture of public transport like trains, buses and rickshaws, and also walked wherever we could. I was lucky as a few of our rickshaw drivers spoke Punjabi, so language was less of an issue.

T+D: What did you do first once you arrived in Jaipur?

We only spent two days in Jaipur, and in that time we tried to see as many of the frequented tourist attractions as possible. First we visited Amber Fort in Amer, we were captured by the beautiful architecture of the building and the gardens. After visiting Amber fort we went to the famous Galta Ji ‘Monkey Temple’.

(The pink city – photo credit Raj Singh Gore)

However our favorite site during our time in Rajasthan was Pushkar. We explored the whole of Pushkar including the famous Jagatpita Brahma Mandir and were stunned by the vast rolling desert landscapes. Pushkar really stood out as my favorite place in Rajasthan, the atmosphere there was just so peaceful. I have seen a lot of the congested, chaotic side of India, particularly in Delhi which is known for its intense traffic and constant hustle. Pushkar was like an oasis of calm for me. There was just something about the place, something completely tranquil. It was refreshing to see places of worship of so many different religions all on one place; there were Gurdwara, Jain temples, Hindu Mandirs all in the same vicinity. You could really sense that this was a spiritual place; there was an almost holy presence there. I would definitely recommend going. Just hop on the train and go!

(Pushkar -Photo credit – Raj Singh Gore)

T+D: And after Rajasthan, what was next?

RSG: We went from Rajasthan to Varanasi by train.

It was just out of this world. I don’t even know how to explain how amazing it was! Soon after arriving there, we just sat on the bank of the Ganga River, not even doing much; we just sat there for hours on end. And what’s best is that we got to spend Diwali there! The fireworks were breathtaking, and we must have been out until 2 am joining in with the festivities.

One of my best memories of my entire trip to India was going to the Ganga Aarti in Varanasi, which was absolutely magical. It’s difficult to convey in words how brilliant it was. You just have to be there to really understand it.

T+D: How did the reality of India differ from your preconceptions of how it would be? And this goes for Sophie as well, what was her perception of seeing India for the first time as a UK national.

RSG: I really love India, I have been twice previously and already had an idea of what to expect, and this trip has only led me to appreciate it more. But I think Sophie found it a little more difficult to adjust. She found it very hectic, and the food didn’t agree with her. She found certain things shocking, for example the living conditions of the poorest in society, which is visible in the majority of places you go in India, and also the stray dogs and the condition many of them were in.

(Photo credits – Raj Singh Gore)

T+D: What did you find to be the most different culturally?

RSG: Definitely the driving! And the fact that people seem much friendlier in India. I think that was mainly due to the fact people knew we were tourists from the UK, but we found everyone to be so helpful.

T+D: Has your recent trip to India influenced where you would travel next?

RSG: Yes of course. It’s made me realize the possibilities of travelling alone, without family. So I am going to travel more of India, and hopefully more of the world! I think my next trip will be to South India.

After a bumpy landing I was greeted by 32 teeth and a placard, instantly I knew I shall have him as my taxi driver for the next few days.. & I did in spite of his non-stop chattering.

My first visit to Odisha I headed straight to pay my respect to Dina Nath Pathey ex principle of College of Art Bhuvaneshvar. Thereon I rushed to Puri where I was to camp for the next few days.

I usually head out to a destination with minimal information and just follow the soul of the place, the mystery that unfolds is what thrills me, and not being a great fan of statistics or names it’s the essence, the aroma the Darshan, which I look for.

While driving to Puri from Bhuvaneshwar the first thing to catch my attention was the smartly hatted traffic police women, slowly the urban landscape gives way to lush green cultivated fields with patches of water bodies, inbetween covered with emerald green weeds and pink wild flowers “yeh Kasturi hai” says my driver. Just as I had absorbed in the green, I was blasted by colorful decoratives hanging on both sides of the road, We were driving through an exhibition of brilliant colorful applique craft works, purses, hanging lamp shades, bedspreads, umbrellas etc etc. this was Pipli. “In 1054 Maharaja Birakshore of Puri had appointed tailors of Darji caste as the sevaks to provide regular supply of such articles for daily seva, as pilgrims on way to Jagannath Temple could stop and buy banners etc for offerings to the Temple Gods and also carry with them souvenirs”, said a shopkeeper.

JAGANNATH TEMPLE

Puri welcomes one with the normal Chaos as any small town would, but the aura is filled with devotion. I quickly settled my bags in the Hotel located on CT road and as suggested by my 32 teeth driver, I headed to Jagannath Temple. No camera, no bags, no mobile etc etc and I whispered within, “oh God cant I just take a few pictures”,

Well yes I was quietly helped to the terrace of an adjacent Temple and got the bit I had asked for.

The Panda Guide painstakingly & patiently took me to nearly each corner of the Temple and flooded me with mind blowing information. Many times I just sat, soaking in the vibrations of the Temple, the stories, the devotion, the majestic magnitude. 50000 Pandits and staff, 150000 people can be fed each day, 240 choolas ( cooking platforms ) cooking 56 different dishes each day on six to nine handis ( mud pots) staked on top of each other. A handi once used is destroyed. Each Seva is divided among different caste and is pasted on through generations. The cooking Pandits, the door closing Pandits, the Pujaris etc etc Its all a fascinatingly complex, yet simplified organization. Its about devotion. The beautifully carved wooden Rath for the great Rath Yatra is constructed without any iron or nails, fascinatingly each year a new one is made and the old destroyed. It was 6;30pm, the preparations for changing the flags on top of the 214 feet high main Temple had started and this is done each day irrespective of the weather. Without any facility of a stairway etc a family of Pandits since generations is dedicated for this job, thousands of people gathered around, waited patiently to witness this daring sight of devotion and amidst the chants of praise for the Lord and sound of hulu huli, he leaped up in a trance like state and reached the top with the stealth of a leopard.   This needs to be felt and experienced, the energy behind this custom is unexplainable. My guide quickly whisked me away, the doors of the main sanctum were to open in a few minutes. Our feet were greeted with remnants of the 56 dishes which had been offered to the Lord before being served to the devotees, my feet were gliding on the slippery floor, my mind played havoc, where was the hygiene etc etc, my body stiffened and slipped further, pushed through along with the hundreds, we were on our feet because of each other, I realized and whispered “LET GO AND FLOW” I became one with the slippery floor, the devotees, the sanctum, the idol, I floated now, mind cleared off urban conditioning, and then I could ‘SEE’.

BUDDHIST TRAIL

Next day 6:30am I left for the Buddhist heritage sites Ratnagiri, Udayagiri and Lalitagiri, they are around 10 km apart from each other, and via Cuttak (NH 5 and NH 200) around 155 km and a 3hrs drive from Puri. The last 20km once we exit NH 200 is very scenic, a drive through beautiful small villages and winding narrow hilly roads, one can feel a mysterious Aura all through this area. Ratnagiri, embedded in the interiors welcomed me with its solitude. I was the only visitor and that was perfect.  A climb of100 odd steps bordered with lush green grass brought me to around 60 feet above the road, from here I was greeted with a soothing view of lush green paddy fields in the distance below. A few more meters and a battery of Votive Stupas welcomed me, though a little breathless I nearly ran up the next 100 meters,  Waah!!! there was silence, a Hugh Stupa welcomed me, it felt heavy, grounded and still, I climbed to the top of it, and wow! Could see hundreds of Votive Stupas surrounding it,  many arranged in circles with a large Votive in the centre, a top the Stupa I helplessly sank into a meditative posture, eyes shut with ease, the air came alive with chants, was I traveling in time? There was gentle movement around me, so real, “Sahibji”, 32 teeth (my driver) “ek ghanta ho gaya hai chalain” standing above me was another man with him, he asked if I had seen the place well and if not he an excavation laborer would show me around. I jumped to life, did I? Or was that life, that I was experiencing before? I wondered. While walking with my new guide still in a state of trance, I looked down and to my shock I was standing next to the the bump on the top of Buddha’s head, ( Ushnisha ) still buried under, a part of the temple still to be excavated was beneath us, he quickly whisked me away towards the rooms where the monks had lived, the newly excavated temple and and finally to the brick monastery, never have I seen a more beautifully carved Door Jamb a combination of light green granite and sandstone, and wonderfully carved stone sculptures lay all around.

This Buddhist centre was established at the time of the Gupta Kings ( 1^st half of 6th century AD ). Initially a Mahayana centre it became a great centre of Tantric Buddhism or Vajrayana during the 8^th- 9^th century and was significant for the emergence of Kalachakra Tantra.

Next to the site is a Museum which houses some fascinating ancient relics and sculptures.

It had been two hrs and my constantly grinning driver reminded me to speed up a bit, on the way to Udaigiri, I coudnt help but stop at a village, an old man with glistening dark skin, knees going way beyond his head, sat by the road side weaving a basket, in a few minutes I was surrounded by grinning women and children, “he is the grand dad of our village 80+ and fully active” they invited me to have chai and I followed. Each hut in the village was fantastically painted with white rice powder and some natural colors, the per-capita income here is barely Rs1000 per month, the joy on their faces again made me wonder.

UDAYAGIRI  

Located in the basin of a U-shaped hill is one of the largest Buddhist complex in Orrisa. The ancient name of this sprawling complex was Madhavapura Mahavihara and it flourished between the 7^th – 12^th century AD.

A guide wearing a cowboy hat appeared from no where and said “ very few come here and one needs 2/3 days to explore this area” I quickly said to him, “expose me to the mystery, I have 2 hrs”. Mystery shrouds this complex too, one can find rare plants, plenty of snakes and feel the vibes of mystic Tantric practices. On one side stands a hugh Stupa and a 10 minute walk away are the tombs of monks with a rare nude sculpture of Tara. The eerie silence of the complex starts to sink in instantly. Next to the tombs is a a Kali Mata Temple where childless people from all over come to make their wishes, ahead of this is the two storied brick Monastery and from here goes a secret 1 km tunnel which was once used as an escape route, the tunnel divides further and carries on towards two different hill tops. The guide seeing my interest quickly shouted out “ 4 men have lost their lives in these tunnels, they are narrow and house the most poisonous of snakes”, my inquisitive mind was put at rest. Near the entrance of the complex is a fantastically constructed ‘Step well’ which is still in use and next to that is a hut of a living Tantric who is supposed to be capable of blessing the childless. Three hours had past and we moved on to Lalitagiri in deep silence yet images still dancing within me.

LALITAGIRI

Again this is a sprawling complex and one of the oldest Buddhist centres. As one walks past the entrance, the wonderfully constructed brick Chaitya hall reveals itself. A visit to the sculpture shed of ASI must not be missed and as u walk back, a long flight of steps lead to a large Stupa perched on a hill top, golden caskets containing sacred bone relics believed to have been of Tathagata, were discovered here. This Stupa is said to emit “brilliant light” and be sure to have a birds eye view of the beautiful landscape below.

We had forgotten about lunch it was 4;30pm we headed back to Puri, I pushed my seat back reclined, the grandeur of what I had witnessed and experienced, played sweet chaos with a spiritual silence deep inside me.

Deepak Tondon

My father has yet again discovered a hobby fast turning into an obsession– downloading BBC documentaries, and burning them in DVDs – titles and dates of burning et all. Just the other day, bored in the lull-humid Assam heat, I flipped through his “collection” to come across a film titled “The Mystery of the Taj Mahal”.

As I sat through the somewhat-dull monologue, I began to wonder “What is it about the Taj anyway?” No doubt, it is an architectural-marvel, and a most-refined specimen of Mughal taste and elegance. One may call it the cultural-symbol of our country, and a visit to India is incomplete if one does not have a “visit to the Taj Mahal” in one’s itinerary.

However, hidden in the many nooks and crannies of the country, overshadowed by the popularity of such “rich” monuments, lies a vast plethora of myriad lesser known buildings and architectural accomplishments. Unnoticed and ignored, they wait and wait, for some heritage-crazy backpacker to bump into them and unravel the mysterious beauty they hide.

The mausoleum of Itimad-ud-Daulah, located in the busy town of Agra is one such example. What was once the rich capital city of the Mughals, and the nerve-centre to usher in the “Golden Age” of Muslim Rule in India, Agra has now diminished to a crowded, chaotic trade town.

Yet, the buildings from that glorious era remain – telling stories about days gone by.

The tomb of Itimad-ud-Daulah, built in the years from 1622 – 1628 CE, tells a similar story of honour, success, and fate. The story also involves some of the most influential people of Mughal history – people who made and marred destinies and dynasties.

Mir Ghiyas Beg (later honoured with the title of Itimad-ud-Daulah), father of Noor Jehan, and Wazir to the Emperor of Hindustan, lies in eternal sleep in this mausoleum, along with his wife, Azmat Begum.

The rags-to-riches story of Ghiyas Beg began in Persia where he was a wretched merchant, to end in Agra where he rose to unprecedented success finally becoming the Wazir of the Emperor. All this happened because Jehangir, the then ruler of India, fell in love with his widowed daughter, who was later to become known as the most gifted and beautiful woman of her times, Noor Jahan.

Noor Jahan’s life itself calls for another interesting study. But the focus here is on the tomb she commissioned on the death of her parents.

On one of my umpteenth visits to Agra, I chanced upon this monument.

As I entered the main complex, it took me no time to recognise the Indo-Islamic style of architecture employed in the construction of this building. A practice initiated by Akbar, this style combined both Islamic and Indian architectural elements in constructions. While the octagonal towers, arched entrances and ornamentation all pointed to Persian borrowings, the canopies, the terrace topped with a barahdari roof (a kiosk-shape structure on a flat roof), and kalasha-finials that crowned the roof and the canopies were definitely of Indian origin.

The first of its kind in India, built completely out of marble (yes, the Taj Mahal isn’t the only one), the structure overlooks the river Yamuna and is flanked by an imposing gateway and two pleasure pavilions by the riverside. I walked towards the central building (constructed on the usual char-bagh order) and wondered “How could I have missed this one?” The chaos of the traffic and crowd of the present world vanished, as I entered the complex and stared at the building from a corner. With hardly five more visitors, excluding the number of parrots and squirrels that jumped around my feet, this tranquil and calm spot was just the perfect place to be.

I was mesmerised especially by the precise and faultless ornamentation of the buildings. The decorative aspect seemed to have superseded the structure of the tomb. Detailed to its core, the technique of pietra dura inlay was employed (a generation prior to the Taj Mahal), and raw materials such as porphyry was imported from distant lands on special requests by Noor Jahan. The entire exterior bears lavish ornamentation of mosaics and inlay. Massive octagonal towers attached to each side of the central building end in circular canopies with kalasha (pot) and padma-kosha (inverted lotus) finials. The entire façade is topped with a chajja (parapet) and a jailed balustrade. Exquisite mastery of craftsmanship is again witnessed in the jalis that cover the arches on the façade – composed of sinuous creepers and foliage motifs.

The central building houses two cenotaphs built completely out of yellow porphyry stone, the floor being inlayed with natural stones in varying designs. The vaulted ceilings were also decorated with floral and arabesque motifs – almost as a rule the stalactites in the vaults were inlayed in deep blue, crimson and gold colours. Persian influence is again noticed in the motifs of wine vases, cups and guldastas being used in the wall decorations. Very interestingly, animals, birds and human figures were profusely displayed too – a significant characteristic of the age of Jehangir, marking an evolution of the artistic canon. Chinese clouds abounded as space-fillers in alcoves, and as continuous border bands in ceilings. A very interesting feature was the cartouches in the ceilings of the side halls and the riverside pavilions copied from Persian embroidery designs, including the edge-threads making them as realistic as possible.

It is said that one is pulled back to the Taj three more times after their first visit. I can safely count five visits on my list. And yet, nothing pulls me to that building as much as the tomb of Itimad-ud-Daulah did. When one tracks back the history of Mughal architectural evolution, one realises how the Taj Mahal was the end result of generations of experimentations and discoveries. From the earliest Mughal graves of Babur (Lahore), passing through the one of Humayun (Delhi) and Akbar (Sikandera), to this one of Itimad-ud-Daulah, the architects of the Taj Mahal borrowed the best from all and combined them in a masterful manner to create, what is established as, the grandest Mughal accomplishment in architecture till date.

However, this quite, little mausoleum imagined and commissioned by Noor Jahan had a special charm for me. Perhaps not as massive as the Taj, perhaps not as popular, yet it attracted me for reasons unknown.

As I sat there for hours, silently looking at the tomb, I rose up and left somewhere. Somewhere far away from the honking cars, from the overcrowded footpaths, from the madness that is the 21^st century, this was my little venture into time-travel.

Shubhasree Purkayastha

Rajasthan is like a permanent fixation for me. Whenever I go there, there is a sense of déjà vu and I love to travel into the interiors with as much anticipation and delight as to the main tourist destinations. For one, the average Rajasthan even on the street understands that the tourist is one of its major economic mainstay and consequently treat them with respect. By now they have seen enough tourists from all over the world and are not over awed by anyone.

I usually give resorts a miss when vacationing, I find the experience too synthetic, but for once, I gave in to family pressure to holiday at the Mana Resorts in Ranakpur. And I am so glad I did, for it was one of the nicest and comfortable holiday experiences I have had in a long time. Ranakpur is off the regular tourist map so one doesn’t encounter the usual touristy crowds that populate the ever beguiling Rajasthan. Quietly nestled within the folds of the Aravallis, the resort is set within nearly four acres of lush green land. The stunningly unique architecture enhances the tranquility of the place. The design is totally contemporary and in refreshing contrast to anything else one has encountered in Rajasthan. The extensive use of glass gives a very open feeling. The design is ultra modern and is still in harmony with its surroundings made from local stone, steel and glass. Everything is as Rajasthani as it gets but has a contemporary twist.

As all of us adults decided to rest a while but my children, who are bundles of energy, refused to rest for they discovered the existence of a peacocks and ducks and other birds within the resort premise. After few hours of getting our act together, off we went for an early dinner. The sheer variety of the Rajasthani cuisine was mindboggling. Our thaali consisted of ker sangri, mangodi alu ki shabzi, missi roti, besan gatteki sabzi, raabdi and the most famous daal baati with churma. The waiters carried out their services in the most royal form possible. The sweet dishes followed in quick succession, some bore names like feeni and palang tod that had us adults in splits as we hoped the children didn’t get the jokes!

The next day it was our turn to explore the neighborhood. Situated at a distance of 21 km, is the Muchhala Mahavirji Teerth Dharamsthala which is considered to be a very ancient tirth among the Jains. A delightful temple surrounded by hills, many miraculous events are said to happen here. The temple has a significant architectural embellishment called bawdi which are like stepwells or ponds in which the water can be reached by descending a series of steps. Earthen diyas lit on all the diagonal flights of steps – a sight so spectacular that it is indelible.

The following day, what kept our energy reservoirs flowing was our visit to the Jain Temple dedicated to Adinath who was the first Jain spiritual leader. The temple has four entrances, each facing a cardinal direction. It has 29 halls and 1,444 pillars which are intricately carved to represent Jain fables and symbols and it is said that no two pillars are alike. Light colour marble has been used for the construction of this grand temple. The temple also comprises of beautifully adorned ceilings with painted walls and plush interiors. As the dusk approaches, temples in the city close down due to power shortage and so we were back to the resort in the evening.

A mere 22 kilometres from the city of Udaipur on National Highway No. 8, is the Shiva temple located in the town of Eklingji or Kailashpurji. It is widely believed that Eklingji is the ruling deity of princely state of Mewar and the ruling Maharana is his representative. En route Ranakpur to Kumbhalgarh, approximately 14 kilometres from Sadri Village, is the Parshuram Mahadev Temple. This Shiva temple sits in a cave 3995 feet above sea-level and it is said that Parshuram, the lord’s sixth manifestation, made the cave himself with his axe to worship Shiva in the serene foothills of the Aravalis. The cave has naturally formed figures of Lord Ganesh and Lord Shiva and also has nine kunds or ponds which never go dry. It is estimated at approximately nine lakh pilgrims visit this temple annually.

Next day, we were off to Kumbhalgarh. The fort marks the birth place of Mewar’s legendary king, Maharana Pratap. The remnants of this fort and array of temples are a feast to the eyes. Kumbhalgarh, also known as Kumbhalmer, is a 15th century grand fortress built by Rana Kumbha. It is also the birthplace of Maharana Pratap, a great king and warrior of Mewar. Kumbhalgarh is only 18 kilometres eastwards from Ranakpur and is beautiful.

Close by is Achalgarh, commissioned by famed Rana Kumbha, the fort was built in the 15th century.  It is situated atop a mountain peak it has many vantage points that provide panoramic views all year round. The fort has a steep winding path that leads up to it and encloses many historic Jain temples within its embattled walls. Chittorgarh, the most important Mewari fort, is a mere 60 kilometres to the south east of Ranakpur. The fort is surrounded by a circular wall with seven large gates that need to be crossed before entering the main area. The fort and the city of Chittorgarh hold an annual festival called the Jauhar Mela to commemorate the valour of their ancestors. The fort also has an ancient but beautiful temple of Goddess Kali called the Kalika Mata Temple.

Returning to the resort after playing tourists to the hilt was refreshing and we promised to be back to the beguiling and bewitching Thar desert – for it is believed that if ones feet have touched the soil of any place, one has to go back there at least once again.

HOW TO REACH

By Road

The town is well connected with New Delhi and important towns of Rajasthan. The nearest airport is in Udaipur and Udaipur Railway station also serves as a means of tourist transport. The town is well connected to all other towns and cities in the state of Rajasthan, mainly due to its presence near a major national highway. It is about two hours from Udaipur, which is connected both by train and flights. Buses and taxis are easily available from here.

Ranakpur Weather

Ranakpur weather is tropical. The summers are quite hot with the average temperature falling in the range of 42.0° C (max) to 22.0° C (min). The climatic conditions of Ranakpur, Rajasthan in winters are only a little bit colder. The average temperature is somewhere between 20.0° C (max) to 10.6° C (min). The monsoon season does not receive much rainfall. Ranakpur experiences annual total rainfall of around 55 cm only.

Neena Gulati