Category: Local Culture

“Peace is imbibed by the essence of balance and symmetry”

Which place do we manifest, while thinking about the peaceful Tibetan Buddhist culture? Probably for off-roading traveling enthusiasts, it will be Leh in Ladakh, Himachal Pradesh. Ladakh is a much older region in Buddhism, than Dharamshala. When it comes to diving deep into the art and culture of Tibetan Buddhism, Dharmshala & McLeod Ganj were the go-to places for the meditational art I seek.

The majority of Delhiites with their curiosity for Tibetan Buddhism, undoubtedly must have visited the slice of Tibet in Delhi, Majnu ka Tila. Other than the Tibetan cuisine, Majnu ka Tila monastery when explored from an art and cultural element, is embraced with Thangka/Scroll paintings of Buddha hung in the interior spaces of the monasteries as part of Tibetan architectural elements. Apart from thangka, another impactful art form, as part of their prayer & ritual practice is the “Mandala”.

The Mandala I knew

Mandala, in general, originated from Hinduism and tangibly can be understood as a ‘Circle’. Many people post lockdown opted for self-exploration practices like yoga and meditational art therapies, ways of being in a balanced state of mind, and improved lifestyles. Hence, my purpose in the exploration of Mandala Art in Dharamshala was to see the similarities between a laymen’s free-form mandala artist and a Buddhist Monk’s prayer ritual on a Mandala. Being a Mandala Artist, I took the privilege of hearing from the monks about their angles on Mandala Art.

The Mandala I seek

The markets of McLeod Ganj

Lying within a tiny spread in the upper parts of Dharamshala is McLeod Ganj. A place for party bombers, Tibetan handicrafts, handloom, Tibetan souvenirs, traditional and modern fashion. My journey started with exploring the markets of McLeod Ganj for art shops. One of the most popular markets in McLeod Ganj is the Bhagsu Nag Market, known for its collection of Tibetan handicrafts, including singing bowls, prayer flags and thangka paintings, prayer wheels. The sound of Singing Bowls is used as an aid of healing in Tibetan culture.

McLeod Ganj Central Square has a few shops selling Mandala Art. The local shopkeepers selling the Mandala Art, own almost all types of Mandalas, from Mantra Mandalas to the most typical form of a Mandala in Buddhism, the Kalachakra Mandala. Some of them get these Mandalas imported from the Nepal region whereas some of them get their supply from the local artisans in McLeod Ganj.

What to expect from the shopkeepers? They won’t know everything, but they will try to explain anything they know when generally asked about the significance of the artworks. Some of these thoughtful and delightful shopkeepers are the Potala Handicraft Shop, Tamang Thangka Art, and Tibetan Handicraft Centre.

Dharamshala’s Spiritual Enclave

Dharamshala is home to a vibrant Tibetan community and opens its gates to the mesmerizing experience of the Norbulingka Institute and Gyuto Monastery. These places were parallel to my purpose of exploration.

Norbulingka Institute named after the Dalai Lama’s summer palace in Lhasa is a place of retreat for the Tibetan culture. We all at some point love, Dadi Maa’s old recipe of achaar, chacha ke haath ki ghiya barfi, lohri ki raakh par pighlayi hui Gur Haldi, deewar par banayi hui traditional paintings, and what we the people of India who are even remotely interested in the traditional ancestral habits and rituals do, is that we try to incorporate them in our modern culture. Similarly, this is the whole essence of Norbulingka. It is a self-sustaining institute preserving traditional Tibetan arts and crafts and also works extensively as an economic resource for Tibetan refugees.

Architectural elements of Norbulingka Complex

The architectural elements of Norbulingka are its intricate walls, exposed brickwork, symmetry proportion, and fresco walls. The whole complex is a vibrant blend. Moreover, the institute offers workshops including thangka painting, wood carving, applique work, tailoring, weaving, and screen printing.

Norbulingka Monastery

On my trail for the Mandala, I went straight to the students at the Institute and gathered from a student that according to Tibetan Buddhism, a mandala is the deity’s dwelling place. The circle depicts the whole universe, within which are the deities, the guardian deities, animals, and natural elements of the earth. Well, that’s where our answer lies, A monk’s process of meditation begins with him imagining himself in the place of the deity understanding the nature of his surroundings while catching a bird’s eye view of the universe.

Students at Norbulingka Institute

That’s where my journey en route to Gyuto Monastery, a Tantric Buddhism learning center as well as a monastery. Gyuto Monastery can easily be distinguished by its earthly-colored built structure. Gyuto Monastery is home to monks of all ages. They are extremely joyful and well-balanced with their routine for the day. Whatever they do, they are highly disciplined. It felt satisfactory to watch them pray and learn in unison, and when it comes to eating, they all go rushing like a bunch of kids instead of luring themselves here and there.

I had a hard time catching any of them to get to talk to me, many of them do not even speak any other language than Tibetic. Just when an old monk, agreed to spare five minutes for me, holding his eating bowl in hand. The monk joyfully told me “Hamko pucho ye sab purana chiz ke baare me, hum bada log bata payega” and that’s when I got their perspective on meditating through the diagrammatic form, which is the “Mandalas”.

Gyuto Monastery, Dharamshala

They sit and as part of their prayer rituals, they understand each bit of a mandala, the third-dimensional mandala, the sand mandala. They study the meaning of the elements and the purpose of the deity, and since the elements hold within themselves the true meaning of their existence the mandala becomes an extraction of energies for them. They believe in the power of existence and impermanence.

Hence, based on my understanding, both perspectives do have different psychological meanings. But my purpose in bringing forth the meaning of the mandala is to support my fact that the Mandala can be a differentiating angle for anyone. For a layman, the repetition of symbols, and the compilation of geometric figures and patterns bring out the calming elements i.e., balance and symmetry. Just these elements, can improve our sense of thinking, and our understanding of our place in the universe, and it will build us spiritually. For the people interested in traditional arts and crafts, a religion’s culture has so much to offer. We can do our parts in exploring and incorporating such beautiful characters of different cultures.

Artistic Vibrancy

Roots Art Gallery, Dharamshala

An artist providing space to the local artisans in Dharamshala and several others is Roots Art Gallery, lying beside the Norbulingka Institute. The owner-cum-artist of the store helps them gain recognition for their art, by displaying their pieces. She promotes hand-crafted jewelry, mandala paintings, macramé work, craft work, coasters, badges, hand-made t-shirts, and so many attractive collectibles. The small store filled with diverse artworks is a must-visit for unconventional people.

Image Courtesy: WikiMedia

“Bajeecha-e-atfal hai duniya mere aage
Hota hai shab-o-roz tamasha mere aage”

This sher of Ghalib is the perfect representation of the beautiful architectures of Lucknow. The giant architectures around Lucknow along with residential and isolated areas are the silent observers of change with passing time. They have seen all the changes silently as they played the role of parents for different generations. The architectures have been a great source of inspirations for artist, writers, craftsmen, musicians and dancers of the city.

Lucknow is considered as one of the paramount cities of India, and is really appreciable for its beauty, culture, tehzeeb, food and attire. This city has been populated since ancient times on the bank of river Gomati and is also known as ‘The City of Architecture.’ All the architectures of Lucknow are very remarkable. These statues have different kinds of designs, shapes and ornamentations in them. Most of the architectures have Indo-Islamic styles. Its historical importance cannot be articulated enough. There are more than hundred monuments in Lucknow. These monuments are seen as important symbols of unity in diversity in our way of life. The city is known for its Ganga-Jamuni tehzeeb which means love and unity of two cultures.
Cultural amalgamation brings out an amazing feature of the monumental heritage of Lucknow, as it has been ruled by three cultures: Hindus, Mughals and Britishers; and each one of them have contributed something towards the architectural styles of this city. Most of the buildings have a mixture of Indian and Islamic styles which is called Indo-Islamic architectures, but Lucknow has witnessed the European influence also on its buildings during British raj. Charbag Railway Station, Clock Tower, Residency and Christ Church are some examples of the Indo-British style.

Image Courtesy: Google Images

Along with these architectures, there are several kind of filigree embroideries famous in Lucknow, but Chikankari is the most well known. It is famous across the world for its elegant features. Its Indian origin goes back to the days of Nurjahan, who brought the chikankari tradition from Persia to India. Chik is a Persian word which means ‘embroidery’ and Kari is a Sanskrit word that means ‘To Do’. There is a great influence of architectural patterns and motifs of chikankari clothes. There is a magical relation between architectures and textiles of Lucknow.

For example, the white on white nakkashi on the walls and white on white embroidery or, tint shaded embroidery on white cloth look similar to each other.

Nakkashi on the walls of Chhota Imambara, Lucknow

A typical Chikankari embroidery
Image Courtesy: Aditi Raman’s image stock

The shapes of tomb and chatris are similar to the neck patterns in chikankari dresses.


Image Courtesy: Aditi Raman’s image stock

The karigars of Lucknow are doing same motifs somehow taken from these buildings in a new style and new material for different purpose. There are many current designs of chikankari which are taken from the framed traditional buildings.

Image Courtesy: Aditi Raman’s image stock

For example, the ‘Nakkasi’ and the ’Mihrab’ of the architecture are very close to chikankari Bel or border motifs. One may feel an embroidered cloth covering the wall while looking at the outside view of architecture.

The floral patterns on the architecture and embroidered cloth
Image Courtesy: Aditi Raman’s image stock

For instance, Jaali stitch looks like the Jharokha of the monuments. My interest and involvement are taken over by the following points to find the relational context between architecture and textiles:

1. The reflection of light in architectures and its idea in embroidery.
2. The relation between Jaali stitch of Chikankari and the Jharokha of the architectures.
3. The similarities between the shape of the dome and arches with patterns of embroidered garments.

There are countless number of designs, ornamentations, motifs and color combination we can see in both architectures and chikankari fabrics of Lucknow.
The basic theme however remains same in both cases that design flows on the surface with a rhythmic movement to give the impression that carries this movement to infinity. These monuments have served as constant learning areas for us until now and they shall continue to remain interesting and inspiring to us in future as well.

“Asato Maa Sad Gamaya
Tamaso Maa Jyotir Gamaya”

It is true that menstruation or menstrual cycle is mostly considered a taboo as far as religious doings are concerned, and people seldom like to open up about the subject without considerable reluctance. However, lakhs of people throng the famous Kamakhya Temple atop the Nilachal Hills of Guwahati in Assam during the famed Ambubachi Mela (Ambubachi Fair) or Ameti, also known as the Tantric fertility festival which generally falls on the last week of June. It is a ritual, a ceremony which is observed according to Tantric ways. It is a most celebrated belief that Devi Kamakhya, the Goddess of Shakti (Power), undergoes her annual cycle of menstruation. Interestingly, during this fair, the doors of the temple remain shut for three whole days.

It is held that the Goddess remains impure and unclean for these three days. So, any kind of productive works like farming is not exercised during these days. Even worships and other religious activities also remain ceased during the fair. All through these days devotees do not cook, do not perform Puja and do not read holy books. The Kamakhya temple is one of the 51 Shakti Peethas which lies distributed in the Indian sub continent. The doors of the temple are opened only after the completion of three days. Doors will only be opened after the Goddess Kamakhya is bathed and other rituals are carried out.

It is a ritual of the Tantric cult. It is only on the fourth day when devotees of the Goddess are not stopped from entering the temple for worshipping her. There are several layers of mystery, myth and other-worldliness about Ambubachi Mela. Kamakhya is also called Kamarupa – the form and shape of love, desire and lust. The Goddess is worshipped in both her maternal and erotic roles. In fact, there is no idol of the deity. She is worshipped in the shape and form of a Yoni like black stone from where, quite mysteriously, a natural spring flows.

Tantric cult is quite prevalent and common in the eastern parts of the country. The Tantric Babas who remains in isolation and seclusion for the rest of the year, makes their appearances public only during these four days. One can find some Babas exhibiting their psychic and extrasensory powers like inserting their heads in a pit and standing upright on it and remaining in a standing position on one leg for a long time. It is of importance and interest that the Prasad is distributed in the forms of Angodak and Angabastra. Angodak is the fluid part of the body and Angabastra refers to the piece of red cloth which is used to cover the stone Yoni during these three days.

Pilgrims, lakhs in number, from Sadhus to shareholders, from writers to wrestlers and from ministers to masons visit this temple. Sanyasins, Sadhus, Sadhvis, Aghorasa and even Bauls of West Bengal do not forget to visit this place during Ambubachi Mela. In addition to this, people from aboard also come to seek the Goddess’ blessings. This year the Mela will begin from June 22. Devotees can worship the Goddess on June 26. The police and civil administration of Guwahati makes adequate and ample arrangements for all tourists and the pilgrims. Camps are set up for provision of shelter and accommodation to the visitors. A huge number of volunteers are engaged for making suitable provisions.

Mythology has it that once Lord Shiva flew through the skies in anger at the death of Sati, his beloved consort. A question that haunts us is whether women in India will ever get safety and security? India is a country where female goddesses and deities are worshipped but living women are tortured, beaten, killed, burnt alive and raped.

The mangoes have arrived in full swing and so has the heat! Summer is here folks, and this month, like last month brings with it some more spectacular occasions to celebrate. From stunning local festivals like Assam’s Ambubachi Mela at the Kamakhya Temple to the nationally celebrated Eid-al-Fitr, to the internationally observed World Environment Day and International Yoga Day, this month brings forth a potpourri of reasons to rejoice. Sojourn with us as Travel & Deal explores the myriad festivals of June!

Sindhu Darshan Festival
River Sindhu (Indus): Shey Manla, Leh
1st-3rd June 2018

On the banks of the ancient Indus River in Shey Manla, the very colourful and culturally heterogeneous Sindhu Darshan festival is celebrated as an ode to the diverse tradition of India. The festival marks the beautiful blending cultural hues of our country, where earthen pots of water drawn from various rivers across India is immersed into the waters of Sindhu River. Participants are given a grand reception, followed by performances from the local folk troupes. In addition, local music and food create a spectacular ambience of cheer.

World Environment Day
Worldwide
5th June 2018

The World Environment Day holds greater significance this year as India will be playing host to the event. Traditionally, Indian philosophy and lifestyle have been rooted in the concept of co-existence with nature. With the “Beat Plastic Pollution” theme this year, the focus is essentially on governments, industry, communities, and individuals to come together and explore sustainable alternatives and urgently reduce the production and excessive use of single-use plastic polluting our oceans which are evidently damaging to our marine life and also pose danger for human health.

Eid-al-Fitr
All over India
15th June 2018

As the first day of the Islamic month of Shawwal, Eid-al-Fitr marks the end of Ramadan, a month of fasting and prayer. Many Muslims attend communal prayers and listen to a khutbaor sermon on the first day of the month of Shawwal. Festive meals are prepared elaborately and people wear new clothes, visit relatives and give presents or candy to children.

Saga Dawa
Gangtok, Sikkim
15th June 2018

The silent, serene hills of Kanchenjunga sees a sudden eruption of colours in the month of June. Saga Dawa is considered the most important festival of the Mahayana Buddhists, and celebrates the three most significant events of Buddha’s life: His birth, death and enlightenment. The celebrations happen with enormous fanfare! Each ritual is performed with a strong essence of spirituality and understanding.

Maharana Pratap Jayanti
Primarily Rajasthan
16th June 2018

Born in the 16th century in Kumbhalgarh, Rajasthan to Maharana Udai Singh II and Rani Jaiwantabai, the legendary Maharana Pratap was a true patriot who initiated the first war of independence. In the famous battle of Haldighati against Mughal monarch Akbar, the Maharana along with his equally able Rajput comrades, fought back heroically irrespective of being heavily outnumbered. Maharana Pratap is respected throughout the country for being an epitome of valor, heroism, pride, patriotism and standing for the spirit of independence. His birth anniversary is celebrated on the 3rd day of Jyestha Shukla, when Special puja and processions are held in his remembrance.

International Yoga Day
Worldwide
21st June 2018

Centuries ago, a great Indian sage named Patanjali wrote the ‘Yoga Sutra’ – an exhaustive documentation on the art and science of yoga, where he recommended eight stages of yogic discipline.Years from then, yoga still subsists as a way of life for most Indians and people all over the world. Such has its significance grown in the last decade that a special day was launched to honor the phenomenon in 2015. Since then, the International Yoga Day acclaims the art of righteous living and the attainment of the physical, mental and spiritual wellness.

Ambubachi Mela
Kamakhya Temple, Guwahati (Assam)
22nd-25th June 2018

One of the most unique and popular festivals of India, the Ambubachi Mela attracts pilgrims from all over the country. This festival is distinctive in its own right, and stoutly confronts many of the usual temple customs. It is believed that during this time of the year, typically in the monsoons, Devi Kamakhya (a form of Goddess Shakti) goes through her annual menstrual cycle. Owing to legends, the Kamakhya temple is regarded as one of the Shakti Peethas, and this spot was where the yoni (vulva) part of the Goddess’ body fell. During the festival, the temple doors remain closed for three days. No idol of the deity is in display. Instead She is worshiped in form of a black yoni-like stone. All other daily worship, religious performances and farming procedures are suspended at that time. On the fourth day, the temple doors are opened, when the deity is believed to have attained fertility and She blesses the land with good crops. Shreds of red cloth is distributed among devotees as an offering by the God.

Sao Joao Feast
Across Goa, mainly Siolim
24th June 2018

Abound with flowers, feni and lots of fun, Sao Joao is an exclusive fiesta made only for the newlyweds. The festival involves husbands wearing floral wreaths on their heads, getting drunk on feni (a locally procured alcoholic drink) and then jumping into wells to impress their wives. Too much fun! And if only the rains begin while the festival is still underway, which it often does, the entire level of merriment shoots up by scores.The feast is absolutely delightful, fresh and local; and the quirky Goan dance and music perfectly leitmotifs the event. Makes for some very memorable moments, to be savored for life by the participating young couples.

Hemis Festival
Ladakh and Jammu & Kashmir
26th-27th June 2018

According to popular belief, the festival of Hemis is primarily a religious affair. However, there may be more layers of significance around this event if one thinks about it. The Hemis monastery, the largest Buddhist monastery in Ladakh, forms the pivot point of all festivities. The masked dances, also known as ‘Chham Dance’, illustrate triumph of good over bad, and are thus the highlights of this festival. Some sacred plays are also an important part of this festival, as are ‘Devil Dances’. ‘Chang’, a local liquor is served publicly. Also, Exhibition of striking handicrafts adds to the charm of the gala. The lamas from the local community pose as artistes and perform to local folk music. The head Lama or ‘Rinpoche’ is the presiding person of the event. As per traditions, these monks wear long gowns, elaborate masks and a headgear. Every mask holds a special significance associated with it. The extravagant dance rituals along with soulful music keeps spectators spellbound in bliss.

Kabirdas Jayanti
All over India
28th June 2018

“All know that the drop merges into the ocean, but few know that the ocean merges into the drop.” – Sant Kabir

One of India’s highly celebrated and revered poet-saints, Kabir Das, was born in the 15th century in the holy city of Benaras, Uttar Pradesh. Till date, his birth remains a mystery and a thing of legends, where a definite consensus has still not been reached whether he was Hindu or Muslim. His esteemed works and poems describe the greatness and oneness of the Supreme Being. Kabir Jayanti commemorates the birth anniversary of such distinguished poet.It is celebrated on Purnima or full moon day, during the month of ‘Jyesta’ as per the traditional Hindu calendar. Poems of Sant Kabir Das are recited with great fervor among his followers. Various meetings and satsangs are held in different places. Religious sermons are held at Kabirchaura Math in Benaras where religious and spiritual leaders preach his teachings to the common man. In certain places a procession called the ‘Shobhayatra’ is taken out that culminates in the Kabir temple of that location.