Travel and Deal

The essence of Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj | Story & Photos : Muskan Grover

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“Peace is imbibed by the essence of balance and symmetry”

Which place do we manifest, while thinking about the peaceful Tibetan Buddhist culture? Probably for off-roading traveling enthusiasts, it will be Leh in Ladakh, Himachal Pradesh. Ladakh is a much older region in Buddhism, than Dharamshala. When it comes to diving deep into the art and culture of Tibetan Buddhism, Dharmshala & McLeod Ganj were the go-to places for the meditational art I seek.

The majority of Delhiites with their curiosity for Tibetan Buddhism, undoubtedly must have visited the slice of Tibet in Delhi, Majnu ka Tila. Other than the Tibetan cuisine, Majnu ka Tila monastery when explored from an art and cultural element, is embraced with Thangka/Scroll paintings of Buddha hung in the interior spaces of the monasteries as part of Tibetan architectural elements. Apart from thangka, another impactful art form, as part of their prayer & ritual practice is the “Mandala”.

The Mandala I knew

The Mandala I knew

Mandala, in general, originated from Hinduism and tangibly can be understood as a ‘Circle’. Many people post lockdown opted for self-exploration practices like yoga and meditational art therapies, ways of being in a balanced state of mind, and improved lifestyles. Hence, my purpose in the exploration of Mandala Art in Dharamshala was to see the similarities between a laymen’s free-form mandala artist and a Buddhist Monk’s prayer ritual on a Mandala. Being a Mandala Artist, I took the privilege of hearing from the monks about their angles on Mandala Art.

The Mandala I seek

The Mandala I seek

The markets of McLeod Ganj

Lying within a tiny spread in the upper parts of Dharamshala is McLeod Ganj. A place for party bombers, Tibetan handicrafts, handloom, Tibetan souvenirs, traditional and modern fashion. My journey started with exploring the markets of McLeod Ganj for art shops. One of the most popular markets in McLeod Ganj is the Bhagsu Nag Market, known for its collection of Tibetan handicrafts, including singing bowls, prayer flags and thangka paintings, prayer wheels. The sound of Singing Bowls is used as an aid of healing in Tibetan culture.

McLeod Ganj Central Square has a few shops selling Mandala Art. The local shopkeepers selling the Mandala Art, own almost all types of Mandalas, from Mantra Mandalas to the most typical form of a Mandala in Buddhism, the Kalachakra Mandala. Some of them get these Mandalas imported from the Nepal region whereas some of them get their supply from the local artisans in McLeod Ganj.

What to expect from the shopkeepers? They won’t know everything, but they will try to explain anything they know when generally asked about the significance of the artworks. Some of these thoughtful and delightful shopkeepers are the Potala Handicraft Shop, Tamang Thangka Art, and Tibetan Handicraft Centre.

Dharamshala’s Spiritual Enclave

Dharamshala is home to a vibrant Tibetan community and opens its gates to the mesmerizing experience of the Norbulingka Institute and Gyuto Monastery. These places were parallel to my purpose of exploration.

Norbulingka Institute named after the Dalai Lama’s summer palace in Lhasa is a place of retreat for the Tibetan culture. We all at some point love, Dadi Maa’s old recipe of achaar, chacha ke haath ki ghiya barfi, lohri ki raakh par pighlayi hui Gur Haldi, deewar par banayi hui traditional paintings, and what we the people of India who are even remotely interested in the traditional ancestral habits and rituals do, is that we try to incorporate them in our modern culture. Similarly, this is the whole essence of Norbulingka. It is a self-sustaining institute preserving traditional Tibetan arts and crafts and also works extensively as an economic resource for Tibetan refugees.

Architectural elements of Norbulingka Complex

Architectural elements of Norbulingka Complex

The architectural elements of Norbulingka are its intricate walls, exposed brickwork, symmetry proportion, and fresco walls. The whole complex is a vibrant blend. Moreover, the institute offers workshops including thangka painting, wood carving, applique work, tailoring, weaving, and screen printing.

Norbulingka Monastery

Norbulingka Monastery

On my trail for the Mandala, I went straight to the students at the Institute and gathered from a student that according to Tibetan Buddhism, a mandala is the deity’s dwelling place. The circle depicts the whole universe, within which are the deities, the guardian deities, animals, and natural elements of the earth. Well, that’s where our answer lies, A monk’s process of meditation begins with him imagining himself in the place of the deity understanding the nature of his surroundings while catching a bird’s eye view of the universe.

Students at Norbulingka Institute

Students at Norbulingka Institute

That’s where my journey en route to Gyuto Monastery, a Tantric Buddhism learning center as well as a monastery. Gyuto Monastery can easily be distinguished by its earthly-colored built structure. Gyuto Monastery is home to monks of all ages. They are extremely joyful and well-balanced with their routine for the day. Whatever they do, they are highly disciplined. It felt satisfactory to watch them pray and learn in unison, and when it comes to eating, they all go rushing like a bunch of kids instead of luring themselves here and there.

I had a hard time catching any of them to get to talk to me, many of them do not even speak any other language than Tibetic. Just when an old monk, agreed to spare five minutes for me, holding his eating bowl in hand. The monk joyfully told me “Hamko pucho ye sab purana chiz ke baare me, hum bada log bata payega” and that’s when I got their perspective on meditating through the diagrammatic form, which is the “Mandalas”.

Gyuto Monastery, Dharamshala

Gyuto Monastery, Dharamshala

They sit and as part of their prayer rituals, they understand each bit of a mandala, the third-dimensional mandala, the sand mandala. They study the meaning of the elements and the purpose of the deity, and since the elements hold within themselves the true meaning of their existence the mandala becomes an extraction of energies for them. They believe in the power of existence and impermanence.

Hence, based on my understanding, both perspectives do have different psychological meanings. But my purpose in bringing forth the meaning of the mandala is to support my fact that the Mandala can be a differentiating angle for anyone. For a layman, the repetition of symbols, and the compilation of geometric figures and patterns bring out the calming elements i.e., balance and symmetry. Just these elements, can improve our sense of thinking, and our understanding of our place in the universe, and it will build us spiritually. For the people interested in traditional arts and crafts, a religion’s culture has so much to offer. We can do our parts in exploring and incorporating such beautiful characters of different cultures.

Artistic Vibrancy

Roots Art Gallery, Dharamshala

Roots Art Gallery, Dharamshala

An artist providing space to the local artisans in Dharamshala and several others is Roots Art Gallery, lying beside the Norbulingka Institute. The owner-cum-artist of the store helps them gain recognition for their art, by displaying their pieces. She promotes hand-crafted jewelry, mandala paintings, macramé work, craft work, coasters, badges, hand-made t-shirts, and so many attractive collectibles. The small store filled with diverse artworks is a must-visit for unconventional people.

Posted in Local Culture

Bombay Fusion Palate | Story & Photos: Muskan Grover

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Can’t deny a saying from my cousin, “Delhi dil hai, toh Bombay meri Jaan”. You not only get to say this, but feel the junoon of Mumbai as well. The sea in Bombay acts as its fabric. From Portuguese and European dwellers forming the churchgate locale to Bollywood superstars catching moments, big industrialists to slum dwellers and tribes of fishermen, the city is full of stories from all walks of human existence.

Mumbai’s glimpse of creativity lies in its culture, art, theater, dance & music, all driven by the invincible spirit of Mumbaikars. When it comes to the food of Bombay Pav Bhaji, Vada Pav, Bhajias, Pani Puri, Sev Puri, Dahi Puri, Kala Khatta, just writing about these delicacies gave a mouth watering sense among the readers. But going beyond authentic turned out very well, especially in Mumbai, and that’s when we discovered some worth exploring cafes and restaurants of Bombay.

There is something very peaceful and welcoming about these eateries – that they are for everyone. Whether you are looking for a quiet corner to read a book alone or looking for a relaxing place to catch up with your friends, these places are the best to hang out. Not only do these delis offer a great range of coffees and impressive menus, but the ambience is so unusual that you’d want to spend hours there.

Starting our food journey with:

1. Banyan Tree Café - Set within the 10,000-sq.ft, an experimental architecture and art venue (Ice Factory Ballard Estate) space. The designers of the café have worked honestly on retaining the authenticity of the structure. The centerpiece of the courtyard is the ancient Banyan Tree. The ambience is rustic, raw with exposed brick walls and glass facades.

The cafe’s menu reads like a love letter to wholesome goodness. The café is known for its salads, each bowl is a canvas of colors and textures. From the crunch of fresh greens to the burst of flavor from vibrant toppings, every forkful is a journey through a garden of taste.

The smoothies are a blend of nutrient-rich ingredients with bursts of tropical fruits. The true stars of the show, however, are the sandwiches. Crafted with culinary finesse, these are a fusion of artisanal breads with an array of protein-rich fillings.

Here is what we had from their menu:

Pesto, Please! – Smoked chicken, Pesto Mayo, Jalapeno, processed cheese, cheddar, in a multigrain bread. The pesto mayo makes the sandwich a cheery on top.

Juice – The Melon-aire. Watermelon, Orange and Mint flavored.

Pesto Please Sandwich and complimentary fries, Picture credit-Zomato

Pesto Please Sandwich and complimentary fries, Picture credit-Zomato

Address - 7, 9, Calicut Rd, Ballard Estate, Fort, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400001

Timings - 8:00 am – 10:00 pm

 2. August Café - In the lanes of Andheri, is a café called August, serving Italian and Continental dishes, along with an in-house bakery. Dessert at August Café is a revelation. Cheesecakes are a study in indulgence, with textures that range from silky to crumbly and that’s what we were there for. Macarons and pastries are dissolved into sheer delight. August Café has much more to offer, starting from breakfast offerings like pancakes, avocado toasts, to lunch and dinner with Mediterranean platters.

Here is what we had from their menu:

Baked Cheesecake – Classic New York Style Vanilla Cheesecake

Baked Cheesecake blended with a hot Latte is a win-win.

New York style Vanilla Cheesecake

New York style Vanilla Cheesecake

Address -  Shop No 3 & 4, Sterling Apartment, Lokhandwala Complex-andheri West, Mumbai – 400053 (Sundervan , Off Link Road)

Timings - 9:00 am – 12:00 am

3. Oh Dough - Oh Dough, an Ice Cream Shop in the charming neighborhood of Kala Ghoda, offers combination of ice cream flavours with baked and hot cookies. The contrast of the cold, velvety ice cream and the gooey warm cookie dough is truly impressive. The ice cream flavours at Oh Dough are genuinely rich and creamy. Hence, the perfectly soft dough with a little crisp offers a delightful texture complementing the ice cream wonderfully.

Here is what we had from their menu:

A Lotus Biscoff Strawberry Ice Cream paired with Red Velvet Cookie, and

Smoked Vanilla Ice Cream paired with Smores Cookie

Smoked Vanilla Ice Cream paired with Smores Cookie

Smoked Vanilla Ice Cream paired with Smores Cookie

Address -  Hind Rajasthan Chambers,, 6, JA Allana Marg, Apollo Bandar, Fort, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400001

Timings - 1:00 pm – 11:30 pm

4. Pizza by the Bay - Pizza by the Bay is situated right by the bay, the restaurant offers panoramic views of the Arabian Sea. The outdoor seating gives a cold sea breeze dining experience. Pizza by the Bay specializes in pizzas and are known for thin crust, crispy edged and perfectly cooked aromatic pizzas. Beyond pizzas, they offer a variety of Italian and continental dishes. It’s an extremely cool place for breakfast. They have an altogether different breakfast section for the city dwellers.

Here is what we had from their breakfast menu:

A Veggie Cheese Melt – Broccoli, Bell Peppers, Chilli and Cheese baked on fresh Homemade Bread, sided with Cranberry Juice

Veggie Cheese Melt

Veggie Cheese Melt

Address - Soona Mahal, 143, Marine Dr, Churchgate, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400020

Timings - 7:00 am – 12:30 am

 5. Tanjore Tiffin Room - A charming and lively place to have lunch or dinner, Tanjore Tiffin Room is an upbeat place to wine and dine in the evening. The menu at Tanjore Tiffin Room is a treasure trove of South Indian classics. The best thing about the place is that they will introduce you to all the curries that they offer, on a glorious platter in mini bowls. Those curries have lip-smacking flavors, ranging from the sourest tamarind to rich coconut based curries. Once you finalize a curry, you get to decide your choice of protein from fish, prawns, chicken, mutton or veggies for your curry. Also, to work up your diet, there are veg and non veg appetizers.

Since we didn’t have any lunch, this order was meant to be big.

Here is what we had from their menu:

Veg Starters - Mushroom Pepper Fry (Mushrooms tossed in freshly ground pepper, coriander, and fennel powder), and a tinch of kadhi patta. It is Yumm!

Non Veg Starters - Karaikudi Fried Prawns (Crunchy batter fried prawns tossed with curry leaves and spices), served with a side dhaniya and pudina chutney.

Veg Main Course:

Mushroom with Veg Khorma Curry – Milk, thick curry in a ground coconut, cashew nut and ginger-garlic base, with chunks of Mushroom.

Non Veg Main Course:

Fiery Chettinad Chicken Curry – Thick onion and black pepper curry with freshly ground spices, with chunks of Chicken.

Breads – The fluffy Appam, and a Malabar Parotta.

Mocktail – Green Apple Lemonade

Tanjore Tiffin Room will actually explain, why South Indian non-vegetarian has this deep rooted and flavorful effect.

Tanjore Tiffin Room curry tasting palate

Tanjore Tiffin Room curry tasting palate, Picture credit-Zomato

Address - Jewel Mahal, Jewel Mahal Shopping Centre, Bungalow Rd, Ratan Kunj, Aram Nagar, Versova, Andheri West, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400058

Timings - 12:00 pm – 1:30 am

Ending with a sweet note, Hurrem’s Turkish Baklava Confectionary at the Jio World Drive Mall truly captures the essence of authentic Turkish flavors. Their signature sweet varying in flavors is the Baklava, thin crispy, and crunchy in every bite with a sweet balanced filling of honey and rich pistachios. It is a must visit for dessert enthusiasts.

Hurrem's flavoured Baklava, Picture credit-Hurremsbaklava

Hurrem’s flavored Baklava, Picture credit – Hurremsbaklava

 

Posted in Food