-Hema Iyer Ramani

From scorching Tirunelveli, we reached Nagerkoil , where we were picked by Isaac , a tall and lanky person , extremely affable and that set the tone of the warmth that we would experience once we reached there. Our hosts, the very warm and generous Sudha and Sriram saw to it that our stay would be a very memorable one . The landscape suddenly changes when you reach Kuzhittura , which is midway between Nagerkoil and Tiruvanandapuram.  The sun was shining right overhead when we neared our destination. The sign outside a gate post read Vaikundam Legacy and the gateman allowed our car to pass. We drove through tall trees and nestled amidst the rubber plantation was a sprawling old bungalow that carried with it the old world charm , yet not archaic.

There was a charming portico where the car stopped and a lovely verandah with basket cane chairs where one could sit sipping a steaming cup of coffee while reading the newspaper and breathing fresh air. Dolphin received us at the reception and he was friendly . The sound of water as we were led to our room had my attention. A long passage with a bridge across a longish pool where fish swam contently lapping their fins and bobbing their heads up completed the scene. I loved the room where we were taken, Cinnamon. Cinnamon as a spice is delicate and sweet , without being overpowering, and that is how I would like to describe the room. It was not too ornate and stand-offish , but it lent warmth and a certain intimacy that only the comfort of a home can normally offer.There were only a few other rooms- Pepper, Clove, Ginger, Cumin, Cardamom. It certainly spiced me up immediately.

I wondered about the fewer rooms that the place had to offer. And the place had an interesting history. Rubber plantation had been introduced by the British and this grand bungalow had once been an Estate Bungalow and I understood the reason now as to why it stayed nestled among the rubber plantation. The bungalow had been built in 1929 by the Europeans on the estate . The estate changed hands a few times , and finally in 1957, a decade after we had won our independence, Seshadrinatha Sarma took over the reins of the estate. The estate and the bungalow has ever since been run by the family.He had initially made it his home and that is probably one of the reasons why, it continues with the core of its being as its mantra- warmth that a home can provide.

Three generations of the present owners had seen to the upkeep of the grand dame along with the plantation. You can see the British and Indian touches that blend so well, just like some of us grew comfortable with the English language even many years after the British had left the country.

A black and white portrait of Seshadrinatha Sarma stands quietly in the corridor, as if he was overlooking the activities of his bungalow. Tired as we were after the drive, we headed for a shower. The Jacuzzi tempted me but, I did not want to spend all my time there. There was so much to be savoured outside! We walked into the restaurant, again greeted by cheery faces and they whipped up the most delicious meal. I can vouch that only my mother can make curd rice as tasty as that! The rotis and curries were all made without the masalas overpowering the vegetables and I savoured each of the vegetables. There was enough light pouring in without harsh rays entering any portion of the bungalow.

A good walk is a must after a meal . My husband would disagree; it was always a good siesta after a meal. So, as he headed to the room, the rest of us decided to explore the beautiful rubber estate. Who would ever imagine that when the sun was shining right overhead, we could go for our afternoon walk?The trees on either side were really tall and together from either side, it seemed as if they clasped their fingers together to form a canopy- much like the tunnel of love in a  grand march. They do not have any branches on the lower trunk , but they have leafy branches at the top. The path had dried leaves from the rubber trees and that formed a lovely soft carpet .

We saw the incision marks on the bark of the trees, and half coconut shells  fixed to collect the latex , a method known as tapping.  The birds and the rustle of the leaves were the only sounds and the mid afternoon was beautiful. We even lay on the hammocks because this was one place where one did not have to worry about getting sun-burnt.

When I saw the bicycles, I was tempted to give a try to my lessons of my childhood days. I would have been embarrassed in any other place, but here I literally let my hair down. With ample help from my son and the promise that he wouldn’t allow me to fall, I dared to dream and I dared to ride. It was the most exhilarating experience.

But Vaikumdam Legacy had more in store. Gerald, the sweet and courteous driver took us in the jeep along muddy , uneven paths, and what we saw was a sight to behold. We saw the silhouette of the hills and a beautiful lake . It was a magnificent sight. I do not remember how long we sat, but we went down, we carried the picturesque memory with us. We saw the adjoining streams and waterfalls in the area, each a sight to behold. The waterfalls was a grand sight. The men had their bath under the falls, but I was content to just watch the falls and enjoy the moment.

Soon , it was time to leave.  But , I promised myself that the next time round, I would like to just sit with my book and cook up a story from this place that had spiced up my life with its warmth and generosity. To me , Vaikundam Legacy was a beautiful memory because it had the perfect balance of the spices- Cinnamon, cardamom, clove, pepper, ginger and cumin.

Syeda Beenish

Things to remember:

❏     A duty-free island

❏     Can be reached by sea and air Delhi – KL – Langkawi

❏     Offers Beaches, Geo forest Parks, Rope cable, Underwater Wildlife, Museums, Bird Park, traffic-less roads.

❏     Always carry a water bottle as it’s humid and you will feel dehydrated often.

❏     No public transportation, only vehicle renting.

Is vacation with friends or family on the mind, Malaysia has all the flavors in store for you. Though pandemic has slowed down our spirits, but very soon we will be out of this situation, and would be ready to pack bags and hit the road. Just to share, it is truly one of the favorite destinations for Asians along with Singapore, Indonesia, and Australia amongst others on the list. Malaysia always means Petronas Towers and Genting and Cameroon Highlands. Let me share one of my trips to Malaysia where I explored one of its virgin islands Langkawi, also known as, the Jewel of Kedah.

I visited it around Christmas, and along with Langkawi, Kuala Lumpur was also a part of my itinerary. We used Malindo Airlines for our travel and also it was the cheapest. The staff at the airport was outstanding and helpful, and since I was traveling alone along with my 2-year-old daughter, one of the airport staff guided me to the metro bay and helped in boarding the metro to transfer from one terminal to another.

Due to time constraints, we missed visiting some pretty Malaysian fountains, scenic bridges of the area. Some private tour operators also helped arrange water sports like Snorkeling and a romantic dinner at the yacht. Though we could not taste it all, whatever we did was nothing less.

Day 1

The driver who took us from the airport to the hotel. He suggested us to start our day with a boat ride in mangroves, which was considered the best activity to do in the morning.

The Kilim Karst Geoforest Park

Langkawi has three Geoparks, namely Machincang Cambrian Geoforest, Kilim Karst Geoforest, and Dayang Bunting Marble Geoforest. We visited, The Kilim Karst Geoforest Park. At the entrance, they usually click your family or group photograph which one can buy later at the time of leaving. We also did the same. This area is rich in wildlife with hairy nosed sea otters, and brown winged kingfishers. Our boat slowed for a minute as we were shown the King Kong Hill. My daughter loved the macaque monkeys playing on the sides while our steamer passed them. There was also a point where the Eagles were flying very low. We were asked to throw the food at them. Worth mentioning is the bat cave within the Geoforest Park. We even cited a snake outside the caves. The boat also stopped at a fishermen’s area where they had large fish compartments for us to feed and touch the fishes. People usually stop here to enjoy seafood that has a local Malay tast

This boat tour lasted for around 3 hours, we bought our family picture at the exit and started heading towards the Oriental Village.

The Cable car and Langkawi Sky Bridge

The start off for the next big attraction – the cable car ride was located in the Oriental Village that was full of local restaurants and shopping arcades, including a 3-Dimensional art museum known as Art in Paradise. Almost at the end of the village were the ticket counters. The Langkawi Cable Car took the visitors up to the peak of Gunung Mat Chinchang, where the Langkawi Sky Bridge is located. The bridge stretched for an impressive 125 meters and was basically a long-pedestrianized bridge that offered amazing views of the surrounding countryside. At the end of the Cable car (last stop), was a coffee shop along with a small platform where people put locks to make a wish.

Langkawi Wildlife Park

Your trip to Langkawi is incomplete if you do not visit this wildlife park. Perfect for birds, and animal lovers, as it houses some 150 species of colorful birds, and feeding sessions are held throughout the day. This five-acre animal sanctuary also features a walk-in aviary with a 15-meter manmade waterfall and a duty-free retail outlet. Within the complex were several retail outlets, including a duty-free zone, a souvenir kiosk, and a crystal store. For the first time in my life, I saw a Peacock dance showing off its beautiful feathers wide open.

Day 2

The Langkawi Underwater World

The day began with Malaysia’s largest aquarium, spread across nearly six acres. Housing 1000 plus different species of marine and freshwater fish. The complex is divided into three sections: Tropical Rainforest, Temperate, and Sub-Antarctic. There were regular shows of Penguin feeding and a performance rich American fur seal show. Lastly, there was a giant walk-through, which was a six million liter underwater tunnel tank that housed an extensive number of fish including sharks, giant stingrays, and green turtles.

Eagle Square

Next in our itinerary was one of the most iconic spots of Langkawi, Eagle Square. As the name suggests, It was a huge statue of an eagle about to take flight. Also called Dataran Lang in Malay. The eagle stands at a height of 12 meters approx. The square is located in Kuah which is the main town of the island. Along with some souvenir shops, you will find very neat and hygienic home-made food being sold in packets by the families stacked in their cars.

At our driver’s suggestion, we went to watch Sunset at Chenang Beach (Pantai Cenang). Known both for sunrise and sunset, we were lucky to enjoy the sunset. I wish I could pause the time and breathe in the moment and the cool breeze for longer. 

We had bought many mementos like Eagle from Eagle Square, magnets and keyrings from Oriental Village, and Langkawi wildlife park for my family members and close friends. To keep the memories fresh forever, we tried to capture the island in our cameras. Four days passed at the wink of an eye. Wish I could stay more as there was so much more to feel and taste. But KL was calling me and I now wanted to taste the hustle-bustle of a cosmopolitan Christmas celebration. Today, when my travel deprived daughter (thanks to Covid19) on seeing the pics says, “Mumma ye animals dekhna hai!” I reply, “Yes” hoping this Pandemic disappears and traveling begins soon.

Mesmerising Peacock dance at the Wildlife Park

Kids enjoying site of various colorful fishes.

For Pingu Cartoon lovers, seeing Penguins in real was worth the visit.

Shivangi Naithani Devrani

Amidst all the chaos, decided to leave the city behind and head to Dehradun, a 250 km journey with fear in mind of the Covid it was the month of September 2020, but as I noticed the world is coping up with the new normal, masks, sanitizer and the social distancing to help survive the situation. This time it’s the corona time, though that didn’t stop me from travelling, my grandparents live in Dehradun had a plan to stay and enjoy the blissed weather and nature of our very own dun valley.  An escapade near Dehradun, to the Queen of Hills called Mussorie, in midst of the Uttarakhand ‘Devbhoomi’.An easily accessible, affordable and what we describe as a couple’s paradise. As I hail from the very place, though being a Garhwali I always keep coming to the roots, I make sure I visit my native state of Uttarakhand once or twice a year.

To be so near and not visit the place would be injustice to me and to Queen of Hills herself. Mussorie the hill station – heard, seen and even visited the place before. But I was like do I ‘KNOW’ the place, what it holds and instils , most important as a hill station what does it offer. I am familiar with the culture and cuisine since childhood, perks of being a Garhwali. This was a post lockdown Vacay, left the home after a 7 months long gap, felt the jitter and nervousness. Mall road is what essentially adds the exuberance to the Town, being one the oldest road built by Britishers. The road straight ahead cuts through the Heart of the town, bustling with people, shops, restaurant, street vendors and on road small games centre – it provides us all.

The Mall Road, Mussorie

We planned to stay in the property of Club Mahindra, which is situated on the Gun Hill. I was taken aback with arrangements they had supplied in Covid era – on the entrance before heading towards the reception shoes sanitizing UV machine, our luggage was automatically sent to our room after a thorough sanitization, every employee wore masks and at every point sanitizers were provided. The view was serene from our room;our eyes were blessed to gaze upon the majestic hills- what I so longed for!!

View from the Balcony of Club Mahindra, Mussorie

In evening we stepped down, locals assure us to watch the lustrous sunset on the camel back road. We trekked the path, ‘Quiet and Peaceful’ it felt as divergent from the hustle-bustle of the Mall road. After walking some steps further, we reached the mid-point, having some benches and a shed for on goers to enjoy the blissful hills. A well lay out, neat and clean small shoprun by elderly couple, they had an innocent smile on seeing us approach their way. Nevertheless, they kept the minimum but the best – Maggi,Momo’s, kadak chai, and basic provisions to present. In weather so amiable with tranquil vibe, we sat for a while before we made our way back to the resort. Our evening was blessed by Momo’s and Chai; we paid our gratitude and headed back.

Momo’s point on Camel Back Road

  Camel Back Road

Mall road is overflowed with location to eat catering for all pockets, taste and people – out ofwhich i had a chance to dine and relish few meals. Of which Raj Kamal Restaurant is one of the historic places of Mussorie, offering services since 1956 with same love and dedication. Though renovated but kept the antique yet modern spirit alive in it, food matched the whole character and quality of the restaurant.

Interior of the Raj Kamal RestaurantRaj Kamal historic Restaurant since 1956

A hidden gem you may find a few steps down on Mall Road, Café Teatotaler is perfect tiny place to spend time with your family. The café serves variety from Mexican, Italian, Mediterranean, fried snacks, hot & cold beverages and some sumptuous deserts. Café in a well-lit location, while enjoying a meal you are kissed by sun through the glass panels on the top & open on three sides with picturesque view.

Café Teatotaler on Mall Road

Mahesh Kumar – the Owner of this small humble shop with his Special Amritsari choley kulcha and Special Bombay Pav Bhaji. It reminds you of the desi-tadka, which one craves to have – street style choley kulcha and Pav Bhaji offered in the most hygienic yet tasteful way. Though his business was affected due to Covid issue, although situation has improved with unlock down. People again have instilled their faith in traveling,he hopes to catch up soon for the losses for last 6 months, he in business for last 10 years, he is native to Mussorie.

The name says it all, ‘Chick chocolate’ – the café, has the jazz and panache to it. It even has a story to say, run by 3^rd generation he said the name is of a famous Jazz artist who used visit Mussorie in 1940s and 1950s.During that period, Jazz was quiet the appeal for the people. It was established in the year 1940, offering the most authentic wooden-fried pizza, and but well famous for their handmade mouthful chocolates and pastries. The ambience friendly, vibrant and cheerful – it adds to your dining experience.

Interior of the Chick Chocolate – the café

View from the Gun Hill top

We can never perceive it all; but one should try to transcend the most one can behold. These are few anecdotes that I share for anyone planning for post lockdown Vacay.  These are challenging time, but our life is in our hand – take your precautions and follow the rules. I feel the world cannot stop, life and time goes on –rather it’s us who needs to cope up with the changing scenario. I encourage you to travel, experience the post Covid Vacay, I offered just a glimpse through it, with my parting words to you are ……….

“Travel to see better,

Dream to feel better

And

Listen to know better”

Arati Desai

First political unrest and then the tsunami, Sri Lanka has been ravaged over the years yet, there is a sense of peace and fortitude that prevails over this small island. For the regular traveller neighbouring countries are an obvious choice for a holiday. Sri Lanka occupies a soft spot in the hearts of many an Indian   traveller, who opt not only for its proximity and easy accessibility but also for the old world charm the country has retained.

The famous circuit of the Sri Lankan holiday normally covers Colombo, Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, Ella and Galle but there is so much more to this quaint country. Being an island makes it an all around the year destination. Yes, there are 2 monsoons but one for each coast, so in the Indian summer months of May and June, the east coast of Sri Lanka is the perfect holiday destination. Eastern Sri Lanka surprises with its diverse experiences – heritage, cultural experiences, world heritage sites, beautiful beaches, wildlife and surf waves.

Starting from Colombo, head straight to Dumbulla.  Dumbulla’s famed rock cave temple complex is       Sri Lanka’s largest and most well preserved temple complex. Five separate caves dating back to the 1^st century BC hold 150 Buddhist statues and paintings which are 2000 years ago. These caves bear a spiritual atmosphere which is enhanced by many epochs of Sinhala sculpture and Sinhala art, marking one of the many memorable experiences in the country.

The next day visit the ancient rock fortress Sigiriya, perched on a 200 meter tall rock plateau. Sigiriya, the lion rock, a world heritage site is truly an architectural marvel. Some of the unique features of this 5^th century fortress complex includes remains of a king’s palace, surrounded by an extensive network of fortifications, vast landscaped gardens, ponds, canals, alleys and fountains. While it served as a monastery since the 3^rd century till the 5^th century, King Kashyapa converted it into his royal residence  and it remained so for 13 years (473- 496 AD) till he died. Thereafter it returned to being a monastery till the 14^th century when it was abandoned. Apart from its splendid architecture, Sigiriya is also known for its amazing frescos dating back to till date to the 7^th-8^th century. Of these delicately painted frescos 18 are still visible. Tourists have been visiting this monumental site since hundreds of years and continue to even more so today.

Heading to the north of Sri Lanka, drive 100 kms to Trincomalee. The city, recovering from several years of civil war which ended in 2009, is now accessible to tourists. The population is a diverse mix of Sinhalese, Tamils and Muslims. The coastal beach town of Nilaveli is a popular tourist destination peppered with several resorts and cafes. There is a lot to do here like Snorkeling on Pigeon Island, whale watching (from March to August)   and a visit to the historic Koneswaram Temple. Remnants of Tricomalee’s violent past can be seen in the war memorials. One of the most beautiful is ‘The Trincomalee War Cemetery’ which honours the British and French soldiers that fought to win this natural harbor.

From Trincomalee, leave for Arugam Bay via Passikudah. ‘Passikudah’ means green algae beach and its beach is so pristine that you feel you are in a different world all together. With hardly any hotels and even lesser tourists at this beach, it is the perfect place for solitude seekers who need just the ocean and a good book. Offering an extended shallow coastline, the beach is perfect for shallow swimming.

Arugam Bay in itself has a whole lot to explore, be it the Panama beach, the crocodile groves or the Kumana National Park or the surf waves. You will find Aussies, Germans and even Israelis coming to surf here. This leads to a great number of hotels and restaurants offering western options as well as traditional Srilankan Cuisine. You can find the best pizza in Sri Lanka over here. Arugam Bay has a sort of Goan feel about it. Foreign tourists, food joints, accommodation of different categories, good food.

The next destination southwards is Yala, one of the country’s best national parks which is said to have the largest density of leopards in the world. Yala national park has a protected area of 978 square kms   and is home to 44 varieties of mammals and 215 species of birds. Wild elephants roam the road adding to the charm of the Park which has a surreal combination of a breathtaking beach and jungle lands. The organized safaris at Yala operate twice a day. From Yala it’s back to Colombo.

On the way to Colombo one passes several quaint beach towns like Mirissa, Galle and Bentota. Mirissa is known for exhilarating whale sightings from November to April. Again hotel options range from budget to luxury. Further on one should take a short stop over at Galle. This fortified city was built by the Dutch in 1588 but fortified by the Portuguese in the 17^th century, is Asia’s largest standing fortress built by the Europeans. The fort city has a character of its own with colonial architecture, cobblestoned pavements, swanky shops, quaint restaurants, a pretty lighthouse and numerous monitor lizards.  Galle is also home to the Galle International Stadium which is considered one of the most picturesque stadiums in the world. Devastated by the 2004 tsunami, Galle has regained its glory and beauty.

The last stop of the trip is Colombo, the country capital which has something for everyone. Shopping, Casinos, restaurants, distinctive buildings like the Independence memorial hall, the Viramahadevi Park  and temples like the famed Gangaramaya Buddhist temple and the Hindu temple – Kailawasanathan Swami Devasthanam Kovil. Evenings see tourists visit Galle face green, an urban park on the sea face extending up to 500 meters.  Colombo is connected to other parts of the country by trains as well as buses. The bustling city is getting even busier with skyscrapers and other commercial developments, a contrast to the rest of the quiet and relatively less busy east coast.

There is something special about Sri Lanka apart from its tea and that’s its people. The simplicity of the people and vibrancy of their smiles runs through the country. The colours of the sea and the lovely green expanse radiate serenity. With speed limits on the highway set at a maximum of 70 kmph for cars and buses, you are sure to look out of the window and learn to see again. Due to its long civil conflict, Sri Lanka was not always a tourist destination but today it enchants its visitors, making them promise to return again.

India is a vast country that is so diverse, that within 100 kms in a state you would find a new culture, language and religion. India is mostly about colours, cultures, sweets, religions, beautiful landscape and much more. I have been travelling in India for the past 7 years. In 2012, being a 19-year-old, I went on my first summer expedition to Mumbai on a local train and was engulfed with the diversity that existed in that compartment. And soon as I started travelling alone, I discovered myself in my own country. I was filled with warmth and love, gratitude and celebration wherever I would arrive. This became an addiction soon, and sooner I would skip my university to get lost in this vast country.

Way to Leh

But then two years back I visitedAuroville almost unexpectedly for an internship, and decided to stay back. In 2019 summer, almost after a year and half in Auroville, I wanted to step out again and venture into the wild. This time I was not travelling alone but with Manolo(a Dutch resident of Auroville and my boyfriend). After6 months of being together I shared my adventures with him and no wonder he craved to jump in. 2019 summer was a very special one, once again I wanted to travel back to the mountains. I started with Manali, and from here on we decided to travel on a motorbike trip(very inspired by a Hollywood movie “The Motorcycle Diaries”) to Jespa and then to Zingzingbar.For the first two nights we were supposed to stay in Manali and hire a bike for further journey.I soon realized that, with the influx of tourism, Manali 2019 cannot be differentiated from a local market in Delhi. I remember travelling to Manali when I was 15 and now,being 26 within a span of 11 years the drastic change that has taken place, seemed like a nightmare. Every inch of the place has been polluted with plastic waste and hundreds and hundreds of cars lined up in traffic. I had travelled all this way up with a very passionate and deep hope of breathing cool fresh air of the mountain but unfortunately our fate had something else instore for us. Doomed in dismay, but still with a lot of hope we wanted to continue our journey. But as soon as I sat on the bike, I could feel myself getting lost among the thousands travelling up the Rohtang pass.

Zingzingbar

The white snow over the mountains, were covered with a black veil of tar. As we still kept moving forward, I understood that the situation would only get worse and decided to prepare myself for all the guilt and frustration. No doubt that I was contributing enough to the pollution caused by the many cars and vehicles driving up. At one point we decided to rest at a local café thinking we would be able to enjoy a local cuisine. But my desire to do so was questioned by consumerism and commercialism. The whole café was full of packets and packets of Maggi and tons of candies wrapped in plastic inside dozens ofglass jars. I was so depressed by this time that I could feel my adventure collapsing. But it was not just about pollution anymore, it was about humanity as well. My whole body was shivering at this point, the country has been blinded with commercialism, has been blinded with religions, has been blinded to divide and rule. But we didn’t give up, we kept going until we reached Jespa and then drove the next day to Zingzingbar.

Writer : Pujasree Burman
Photo Courtesy : Pujasree Burman

From West to East: Travel Interview

For decades India has been a most sought after holiday destination for westerners.  Since The Beatles made their first pilgrimage to Transcendental Meditation retreat in Riskikesh in 1968, India has been ever popularised and its image imbued with a sense of exotic mystery, spirituality and an essence of the unknown. Indian aesthetics are used throughout western popular culture and fashion, with designers in film, television and the music industry looking to India’s rich and beautiful culture and have woven it into western contemporary culture. To the western mind, India is a land rich with oriental magic, the ultimate escape for those wishing to ditch the overcast cold which plagues the UK most of the year.  Advancements of globalisation mean it is now easier than ever to make these long haul journeys across the world to experience it firsthand.

Travel and Deal interviews Raj Singh Gore, a young British National of Punjabi origin about his recent trip with friend Sophie (also a young British National) as they travel to various destinations in Northern India.

On the banks of the Ganga (photo credit – Raj Singh Gore)

T+D:  So first of all, tell me why you chose India as a holiday destination. What in particular drew you to travel here?

RSG:  I traveled to my family home in Punjab earlier last year, in April, to attend the wedding of a family friend. I spent time with my cousin as he showed me around Punjab, and after seeing how amazed I was by the sites and scenes in Punjab said to me “If you think this is good, just wait until you see the rest of India!” and urged me to travel to other areas. I was just so intrigued by how vast India is, and amazed at how such a variety of cultures, landscapes and wildlife can exist within the same country. I mean, you’ve got beaches, snowy mountains, deserts, forests, hill tops and flat lands all in the same country.  And the weather is so different from North to South. I wanted to explore different places in India and experience the rich variety the country has to offer, rather than only going to Punjab.

T+D: So as you’ve told me, this isn’t your first time travelling to India. How many times in the past have you visited?

Previous to this trip, I have been twice. Once when I was very young, I don’t remember much of that trip, and then again last year. The first two trips were with family, and this time I traveled with my friend Sophie.

T+D: As you mentioned before, this was Sophie’s first time travelling to India, and your first time without your family; did you have any concerns about that?

RSG: I was very nervous on the flight to India from the UK, but also excited at the same time. As soon as I arrived in India I realized that I had to learn to be independent, and the whole experience definitely has taught me that.

T+D: How did you travel once you arrived in India?

Our flight departed from Heathrow Airport in London, and our connecting flight was from Bahrain straight to Indira Gandhi International Airport in New Delhi.

While in Delhi we took the metro to travel around the city, which was absolutely amazing! The Delhi metro system is even better than the London Underground! It is much easier to use and more efficient.

We originally planned to stay at a hotel in Paharganj, but our hotel wasn’t as nice as it seemed on the website and we wanted to escape the hectic atmosphere of Delhi. So we found a tourist information center and booked a tourist taxi straight to Jaipur, Rajasthan. Once in Jaipur we used a mixture of public transport like trains, buses and rickshaws, and also walked wherever we could. I was lucky as a few of our rickshaw drivers spoke Punjabi, so language was less of an issue.

T+D: What did you do first once you arrived in Jaipur?

We only spent two days in Jaipur, and in that time we tried to see as many of the frequented tourist attractions as possible. First we visited Amber Fort in Amer, we were captured by the beautiful architecture of the building and the gardens. After visiting Amber fort we went to the famous Galta Ji ‘Monkey Temple’.

(The pink city – photo credit Raj Singh Gore)

However our favorite site during our time in Rajasthan was Pushkar. We explored the whole of Pushkar including the famous Jagatpita Brahma Mandir and were stunned by the vast rolling desert landscapes. Pushkar really stood out as my favorite place in Rajasthan, the atmosphere there was just so peaceful. I have seen a lot of the congested, chaotic side of India, particularly in Delhi which is known for its intense traffic and constant hustle. Pushkar was like an oasis of calm for me. There was just something about the place, something completely tranquil. It was refreshing to see places of worship of so many different religions all on one place; there were Gurdwara, Jain temples, Hindu Mandirs all in the same vicinity. You could really sense that this was a spiritual place; there was an almost holy presence there. I would definitely recommend going. Just hop on the train and go!

(Pushkar -Photo credit – Raj Singh Gore)

T+D: And after Rajasthan, what was next?

RSG: We went from Rajasthan to Varanasi by train.

It was just out of this world. I don’t even know how to explain how amazing it was! Soon after arriving there, we just sat on the bank of the Ganga River, not even doing much; we just sat there for hours on end. And what’s best is that we got to spend Diwali there! The fireworks were breathtaking, and we must have been out until 2 am joining in with the festivities.

One of my best memories of my entire trip to India was going to the Ganga Aarti in Varanasi, which was absolutely magical. It’s difficult to convey in words how brilliant it was. You just have to be there to really understand it.

T+D: How did the reality of India differ from your preconceptions of how it would be? And this goes for Sophie as well, what was her perception of seeing India for the first time as a UK national.

RSG: I really love India, I have been twice previously and already had an idea of what to expect, and this trip has only led me to appreciate it more. But I think Sophie found it a little more difficult to adjust. She found it very hectic, and the food didn’t agree with her. She found certain things shocking, for example the living conditions of the poorest in society, which is visible in the majority of places you go in India, and also the stray dogs and the condition many of them were in.

(Photo credits – Raj Singh Gore)

T+D: What did you find to be the most different culturally?

RSG: Definitely the driving! And the fact that people seem much friendlier in India. I think that was mainly due to the fact people knew we were tourists from the UK, but we found everyone to be so helpful.

T+D: Has your recent trip to India influenced where you would travel next?

RSG: Yes of course. It’s made me realize the possibilities of travelling alone, without family. So I am going to travel more of India, and hopefully more of the world! I think my next trip will be to South India.

TIRUKURUNGUDI

The place where the Kaisiki natakam began….-   Hema Iyer Ramani

“Pacchai mamalai pol meni

Pavala vai kamala chenkan…”

Tamizh Paasuram, Divya Prabandham -  Thondaradipodi Aazhwar, 8^th Century AD.

(The One whose form is like the green-hued mountain…

Whose lips are like red corals and eyes like a lotus…)

As we alight at Thoothukodi (Tuticorin) airport, we are immediately transported into a different era. It is a quaint little airport, and the ones who have checked in their baggage have to wait for a good twenty minutes because the airport employee is wheeling each baggage individually!

As we get into the car that has been waiting to take us to the little village called Tirukurungudi, I am amazed at the number of Neem trees that I see from the airport and all along the road. Green landscapes with the pacchai mamalai and the clean air soothe the senses and we reach the quiet village town of Thirukkurungudi that is nestled at the foothills of the Western Ghats. We reach our well-equipped guest house located in the midst of a beautiful farm with orchards, plantains and coconut groves on one side, flanked by the green hills and pacchai malai on the other side. We are awoken by the call of the peacocks, and it is a wondrous sight to see so many birds all at once. There are no other sounds to break the birdsong and it seemed a sacrilege to break the sacred silence. It is also near Thirukkurungudi that you see the famous Mahendragiri hills, where Hanuman is said to have stood atop the hill to take the leap to Lanka.

In the village, the 1300-1500- year-old Nambirayar temple is located in the centre of the town flanked by four Madha veedis (agraharam streets) and at the outer side by ratha-veedhis (car streets) to draw the temple chariot-cars. These are broad, and the chariots are maintained well too.

Madha veedis are typical village row houses and in front of each of them a beautifully patterned kolam with rice flour adorns the vaasal (entrance) which are unmistakably inviting and welcoming.  They are an array of designs in varying shapes and sizes, each distinctly different from the other. This speaks of the creative streak inherent in the seemingly simple life of the village-folk.  When the temple elephant is brought around for a procession carrying the deity, women rush in to wash the streets and adorn it with fresh kolams all over again. An offering is made to the deity and the elephant which stops at every doorway!

It is that time of the year when the otherwise quiet village comes to life bubbling with activity and untold energy. It is the month of Karthigai (Nov-Dec) on Kaisiki Ekadasi Day, when  magically the temple town of Tirukkurungudi is streaming with devotees from far and near to be with their favourite Nambi ( Vishnu) and also to experience the ethereal performance  put  up at the temple  called the Kaisiki Natakam.

There are no lodges in this village that houses the Nambi temple which is also one of the 108 divyadeshams! Thankfully some of us have been lucky to be there on invitation by the charming host, Dr. Anita Ratnam and it makes me wonder aloud whether the village belongs to their family- the TVS family! She laughs it off and understands the reason behind my question and slowly unfolds the story of why one corporate family took charge of spending so much of their time, money and energy into the upkeep of a village.

Whether in public or personal life, it is so important to give back what you have gained. This seems to be the focal point on which Anita works. Having been exposed to the media and dance world, she gave back to her Arts community when she first came out with Narthaki as a dance reference portal (where she listed the entire community under one umbrella). Before the internet boom, this directory became the Bible. Today, the Narthaki online newsletter is the clear voice that fearlessly opens platforms for unheard voices to be heard.

The Thirukurungudi story is no different. Anita tells me about the time when as a young girl of eight or nine, her father, Ratnam, brought her unfailingly to the village. The TVS family was known for its spirit of service too- Anita remembers the quaint little temple town, where her father set up appalam (papad) units and even some canteens for providing opportunities to people.

It was here that she learnt the simple joys of village life, watching the elderly woman, Meenakshi Ammal teach Kummi and Pinnal Kolattam to the young girls. I get distracted by the look of genuine happiness as she sinks her teeth into the hot vadai , generously complimenting the chef and insisting that we try it as well. The endless supply of filter kaapi, steaming idlis, vadai, sambar and akaaraivadishal are definitely to die for!  I also see Anita less guarded and completely at ease in her home-town. There is often a mask that I see among city-bred folk that comes detached as one begins to enjoy the village life.

Thirukkurungudi Vengaram Sundaram Iyengar of the TVS was not only a great businessman with a sharp intellect, but he was also wedded to the cause of Arts.  The Kaisiki Natakam, an all-night drama and dance performance, was performed until his death in 1955 after which it slowly faced a decline.  Anita remembers with fondness her involved interest in the cause which she says is truly because of her father who inspired her like no one else had, and so it was natural that when Na. Muthuswami, well known Tamil theatre-activist and Director of Koothu-p-pattarai, came along with theatre director/consultant Prof.S.Ramanujam of Tanjavur, to see Anita and tell her about the dwindling tradition in her home-town, she was naturally geared into action. So she propelled herself into action working towards the revitalization of the forgotten art of Kaisiki Natakam. Help to her came in the form of key researchers, consultants, artists. But that alone was not enough.   When she lost her father in 1998, Anita knew that she had to keep alive the unfinished dreams of her great grandfather shown to her by her dear father. Help came in a big way when Anita’s uncle Venu Srinivasan took upon the cause of the upkeep of the temple itself. The family also generously contributed in a large way; financially, morally and physically too, for every single factor was important for the dream to become a reality.

The temple renovations were taken up in all earnest and the work we see is an on-going process. The walls of the temple are tall and fort-like, and when you enter the temple you are awe-struck by the beauty of the sculptures that come alive. The friezes tell you stories of a bygone era, if only you cared enough to observe. Every temple is the story of a kingdom long gone, the stories of artists, courtesans, of kings and rulers and also tales left behind by the sculptors carefully about things that they had observed.

So the Nambi temple too was the reading of personal diaries told by men in stone and wood. It is not often easy to get to see the inside of a gopuram (monumental tower) but at the beautiful old temple, we managed to climb the very narrow staircase that was winding and difficult. Though I told myself I would stop climbing the other storeys, I just could not resist. We reached the top, and each floor was magnificent and more glorious than the earlier one. Wooden carvings, friezes, wooden pillars and ornate ceilings had us spell-bound.

After we climbed down, the stories carved in granite were even more spectacular. Details of an aged horse and a young stud, the ornament around the queen’s waist or the woven basket the woman carried, or Meenakshi holding proudly the third breast in her hand were all memories I unfailingly took back home.

Young art students/ sculptors were seen taking down drawings to fill in the gaps or renovate the broken ones. There are five Nambi temples in the town- Thiruparkadal Nambi located near the river, Thirumalai Nambi on the Mahendragiri hills and three within the Nambirayar temple itself. Interestingly, the temple has the Nambi in three positions- Ninra Nambi(standing position), Irundha Nambi(sitting posture) and Kidandha Nambi( sleeping position). It perhaps symbolizes the three states of man- in his childhood, in his youth and in his old age. It could also speak about the philosophy of how we need to accept these three inevitable stages with calmness. Interestingly, there is a shrine of Shiva within the Nambi temple, a rare sight in Vaishnavite temples usually!

Anita also speaks about the affinity of the temple to the Travancore royalty because it did come under the same presidency in the British time. So when the new prince ascends, the first maryada went to Travancore from this beautiful Nambi temple. It is perhaps because of this bond that we see a lot of white-clothed devotees here. The temple does not have too many visitors on a normal day. But on Kaisiki Ekadasi day, the place comes alive. A few thousands throng to watch the Kaisiki Natakam that is performed until the wee hours.

The performers do not act. They own the part. They become the characters, and the young and old from near and far wait to watch the performance in great devotion. It is considered an act of great piety.  When the music and dance finally ended (extolling tales of a chandala, it was not about caste divisions, it was a lesson from early times that no matter what the caste, prayer is superior to all divisions, something we wish would be understood by all who bring the caste divide) the devotees stayed back at the temple to spend the rest of the night.  As I mentioned earlier, there are no lodges in the village though it is one of the 108 divyadeshams. People who have arranged for transportation and come from nearby (10 kms) Valliyoor return after the performance, but a large majority stay back seeking the safety of the temple, where they can spend the rest of the night in the Lord’s company.

To me Thirukkurungudi is also the human story of how a single family played a major role in keeping lost traditions alive and an entire temple and its town in constant move towards progression. Just as the performers come to own their part, the TVS family have truly made it their cause to keep the age-old cultural history alive.

As I leave the village and reach the city, I understand with suddenness the import of the several Neem trees. I wonder whether they were meant to keep away all bitterness from the temple town.  The magical memories of the temple town where people had so little and yet exuded only happiness reminded me that perhaps we need to have more Neem trees in our cities.

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( A  former lecturer of Political Science  at Mount  Carmel  College,Bangalore , Chennai-based writer Hemalatha Ramani contributes to newspapers,magazines and blogs.She is the author of a travel book, Soulscapes:Travels and Conversations in India.  She writes under the name of Hema Iyer Ramani. )

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Photo credits :  Vivek

 Rendezvous with  Natarajan Ramji - Hema Iyer Ramani

“Every block of stone has a statue inside it and it is the task of the sculptor to discover it.” -Michelangelo

When Natarajan Ramji (Chairman and  MD, Film Tourism-TMIC) looks at a new location, he actually looks at the film sequence that can be shot there – he  sculpts an imaginary sequence and once the idea becomes one with him , Ramji goes ahead to bring the director !  Today, he has more than a thousand films for which he has provided the location. It is no surprise then that he has been christened Location Guru especially in the film circles.

Ramji loves to travel, and how! Like many who try to get into a line of work or learn a trade, Ramji got into travel business too. At this time, he also got into some acting roles but did not get the role that would shape his career!

When travel agents were being taken off the map, Ramji created new roads combining two areas that he had already evinced interest in – travel and films. The first break came to him with the Telugu film Rudra Netra (with Chiranjeevi) which was the first project that he handled independently.

From then on, places soon became ‘locations’, and he began looking at places with his ‘location’ eyes. He found himself in Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand and the Far East in the 1990s promoting to the film-makers, the scenic beauty that had bewitched him. By 1997, New Zealand had his attention, and Ramji admits, it is a place he has visited more than 38 times. The joy of being able to shoot all year round made NZ a land of all seasons- the fresh green of Spring would bring in the warm tones of yellow gold, only to soon usher the mature deeper tones that Autumn would bring. Winter would bring the purity of a virgin clad in snow- these appealed to Ramji, the variety that Nature paraded in, almost as if She beckoned the actresses to compete with Her in the Cat-Walk!

He speaks with passion about the changing landscapes, the texture and tones of colours that She cloaks herself with. He speaks about the sheep that are larger in number than the human population – the sheep dogs that respond to the sound of  the whistle knowing that they have to round up the herd to be brought back ! I was reminded of Christopher Plummer in the film Sound of Music blowing a whistle to call out each of his children. The sight of the wide pastures, swift flowing rivers, gardens and orchards proudly displaying the fruits of their labour  all naturally mesmerized him, and he wanted to share the magic of each moment caught in the lens of his eyes  being translated into magic for a larger audience by the filmmaker himself. New Zealand was highly westernized and provided accessibility through its roads which ran around the most picturesque landscapes. An eight-hour long drive from Queenstown to Christchurch and back would take him through lush meadows, quaint little towns of Geraldine, and then the Lake Tekapo with its mountains – the changing landscape of the mountains clothed in white to only burst into flames in Autumn was definitely an inspiration for young lovers, who like the very cold mountain in Winter would soon be ablaze like the very mountain once they were in love! What a perfect situation song!

Until the year 2005, Ramji spent time choosing locales between NZ and Switzerland. He speaks about the 25-day window that the crew would have to be ready to shoot the tulips in bloom. The need to constantly re-invent himself without falling into the safety of a comfort zone, inspired him to search for new locales, hitherto not ventured into at least by the Indian film industry. So if it was Peru and Brazil in 2005, he slowly moved towards the Silk route, and then to more exotic locales. By the end of each film, Ramji began to set a new benchmark for himself, and the bar he set was so high that he often felt the need to improve on the previous venture.

He speaks of the beautiful oceanic island of Sipadan located in Celebes Sea off the East coast of Malaysia. He says it is one of the most beautiful scuba diving spots. “When one steps into the sea, about 10,000 fish come close to you, and when you just stretch your hand to touch them, they would glide away”. It is perhaps like the very fans who come to swarm the stars, and the magic remains only as long as they choose to stay aloof too. Neither the fans nor the stars themselves wish to expose the feet of clay. He fondly remembers Scarface, the fish that would surface near the kitchen at the hotel he stayed because he had become old and could not get his own food. So every noon, at lunch time, he would appear, waiting for the Chef to feed  him ,and it was almost as if  Scarface  had a mental clock because he would just surface up for food at the perfect time each day !

If there is one place that fascinates Ramji, it is the Danum Valley in Borneo rainforests. Trees would rise to grow to 200 ft, and some so wide that it would require 15-20 people forming a chain to clasp it! Ramji is hugely disappointed that he never got permission to shoot in the forests of Borneo. Yet, on a lighter vein, I know it would have been hugely impossible for our stars to go around the trees in the rainforests or perhaps even go on those canopy walks halfway up those tall trees for those song-sequences! But Borneo holds its magic to Ramji because he can still hear the call of the hornbill, the Proboscis monkey, the orang-utans or the pygmy elephants even as he closes his eyes to relive the memory of the blue-roofed cottages where the quiet river runs ever so softly, and where the tallest men still get dwarfed by the shortest trees of Borneo. Borneo reminds him constantly that no matter how high he climbs, he still has miles to go.

He speaks with excitement about Salar de Uyuni, the world’s largest salt flat located in South Bolivia. The Telugu film song (Telusa, Telusa) did total justice capturing the landscape of the salt flat and the cactii-studded islands that would tower over men. I also found the Red Sea beach characterized by red algae shot in China absolutely mesmerizing (again captured beautifully in the song Pookkalae Sattru Oyivedungal from the Tamil movie “I”). If it is Georgia and Ukraine one month, it could be the Balkans next month, and Ramji is not complaining. He absorbs not only the landscapes around him, he also devours the culture of each of the places he visits paying attention to little details that are gently stored away in his memory for future reference.

With Dilwale, and the shooting of Gerua song in Iceland with the charismatic heart-throb Shah Rukh Khan and the inimitable Kajol, Ramji reached a big high. He was also able to convince Ajay Devgn to re-shoot portions of Shivaay in Bulgaria (after Canada not working out well). But the momentum rose to an all time high with the Superstar Rajnikanth for the film Enthiran, when he suggested the location of Machu Picchu in Peru, the 15 Century Inca citadel.

And as in any other trade, when a big film happened with a big star, ‘locations’ received notice like never before.

When I asked Ramji where his soul was, and which place did he feel closest to, he answered very simply: “Everywhere. You can say my soul can be found in each of these places.” Somehow, I found myself understanding him- like the mariner who has a girl at every port, Ramji had a film for every location, and so his soul was all over the globe very naturally.

“I saw the angel in the marble and carved until I set him free.”

Like Michelangelo, Ramji sets each location free when he finds the perfect film to go with it. It is no small wonder then that he is toasted by the Film, Hotel, Travel and Tourist industries all at once.  Yes, he has interacted with the leading directors and actors , been to the best places- yet, his career is not one of glamour alone- it is the same effort that a classical musician puts in to make a complicated rendering seem simple at the first note. Even as I sign off, I hear he is sitting on the banks of the Dnieper river, continuing to be fascinated by all that he sees around him.  I realize other passports may get a complex when they see Ramji’s -  for his is one that will have tattoos  on every page ! I recently read a message somewhere: “ Of all the books in the world, the best stories are found between the pages of a passport.” (Anonymous). Ramji’s passport is a truism to this .

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( A  former lecturer of Political Science  at Mount  Carmel  College,Bangalore , Chennai-based writer Hemalatha Ramani contributes to newspapers, magazines and blogs. She is the author of a travel book, Soulscapes:Travels and Conversations in India)  She  writes under the name  of Hema Iyer Ramani.

Janapada Loka … a trip down memory lane – Hema Iyer Ramani

“In the great cities we see so little of the world, we drift into our minority. In the little towns and villages there are no minorities; people are not numerous enough. You must see the world there, perforce. Every man is himself a class; every hour carries its new challenge. When you pass the inn at the end of the village you leave your favourite whimsy behind you; for you will meet no one who can share it. We listen to eloquent speaking, read books and write them, settle all the affairs of the universe. ……The ancient map-makers wrote across unexplored regions, ‘Here are lions.’ Across the villages of fishermen and turners of the earth, so different are these from us, we can write but one line that is certain, ‘Here are ghosts.’ (“Village Ghosts”)”

W.B.Yeats, The Celtic Twilight:Faerie and Folklore.

Life often is like that. We breeze through our youth rushing past ,without noticing things around us. When we move into the cities, our villages become only memories that trail behind.  We carry these ‘ghosts’ and try to understand them only when we are well past  our prime. With the passing of time, cultural memories get hidden and lost unless they find their way into books or museums.

It was one such dream of a single man called Nage Gowda(Senior Bureaucrat)to keep alive folk traditions  concentrated and afresh within 15 acres of land  . 53 kilometres away from Bengaluru, on the way to Mysore in Ramnagara district  is the beautiful folk village museum called Janapada Loka. An imposing gateway with metal work of trumpets , horns and harige(shield) that adorn it immediately holds the attention of the viewer. As soon as you walk through the gateway, you are greeted by massive  Nandidwajas standing tall and majestic on either side of the pathway. The  lush greenery is instantly soothing to the eyes, and it does not seem too difficult to walk across the long stretch of land,  for there are stone benches  all around and winding pathways with tiny shelters where you could halt and rest before proceeding to different museums. The monkeys and the geese kept us company as we sauntered ahead.

Our first stop was at the Lokamata Mandira , where a variety of household utensils and agricultural tools that were in use in rural Karnataka are in display. A folk artiste( clad in trousers and shirt)took us around explaining the purpose and function of each of them, and we found we were actually familiar with some of them in our own grandparents’ homes- grinding stones, coconut graters, saavige(sevai) maker, and so on. Tall urns  that towered over us were used to store ragi, the staple food .Seeing our sincere interest, he went on talk about folksongs, and we discovered just how talented he was when we heard his magical, deep-throated voice reverberate across the area. All that  talk of grains and millets , the food, the way it was cooked soon made us hungry. We soon headed to the  Lokaruchi Upahara Mandira. Traditional food was served on plantain leaves-delicacies hitherto forgotten except in some traditional homes, where closely guarded secrets lay hidden and tucked away. Kadubu idli wrapped in plantain leaf, mango pulp saaru, Ragi mudde, jolada rotti and akki rotti to mention a few. I recalled eating  piping hot ragi mudde once long back. It was served on a plate with a stone underneath. Saaru would be poured , wetting the mudde just lightly but not keeping it spongy. It reminded me of the coffee plant grown on slopes- it needs water , but not stagnant .

Here mudde was served hot with a dollop of ghee poured generously. The speciality of eating a mudde is you dip it ever so lightly in saaru and  eat it hot, swallowing little balls , one at a time. A very popular dish among the village folks, not so much because it is a delicacy, but because it is extremely nutritious and was the farmer’s  manna, something that was easily available and very inexpensive. In fact, landlords who had to serve food on estates to their employees  fed them mudde because the workers could toil hard for long hours with the mudde sitting comfortably in their stomachs.

There was definitely a sense of déjà vu as one gobbled the mudde. But I felt I would have enjoyed the perfect scenario where I had to sit cross-legged in front of my plantain leaf served on a  mane( small wooden seat) instead o the hard wooden chair that I had sat on.

Of course, once you eat the mudde, you have no option but to start the walk  around the folk museum to digest the stubborn mudde ! Mudde thara koothir beda (don’t sit like mudde ) must have originated thus to prod people to toil so that it would digest.

We sauntered to the part  where the prized artefacts were stored. Loka Mahal  was truly impressive with its large collection of artefacts-large dolls of Yakshanagana and Garudi artistes, Kodava couple, a life-like bullock, leather puppets, war drums that when it was beaten produced the most powerful sound transporting us to a different  time altogether.

The place has a beautiful amphi-theatre as well, where performances are staged  on specific days. What was disappointing was the sight of the completely dry lake ,which explained as to why the geese kept walking all around the place and literally led us to a wild-goose chase toward the non-existent lake ! What is interesting however is that on the banks of the lake is housed a well equipped library that encourages students to re-search folk traditions: Janapada Loka offers certificates/diplomas recognized by the Bangalore University.

Life size dolls and animals depict the rural life style in an open court yard, where pottery is also demonstrated  by artistes. Of course it would be impractical to uproot a village and bring it here. Besides the agricultural implements, what did fascinate me was also the beautifully carved chariot in wood that was so strategically placed that you had to instantly stop before you proceeded any further.

We were fascinated by the Dodda Mane: it seemed to be fashioned after old village homes in rural Karnataka, with a central courtyard, exuding stark simplicity that one would associate with folk traditions. Dodda Mane lets out its space for people to conduct their weddings- a destination wedding amidst mango and  flowering trees, with chirping birds certainly sounds like a dream, for people who have lost all their ‘roots’ with their native villages. The place also serves to house all folk artistes visiting and staying at Janapada Loka.

( A  former lecturer of Political Science  at Mount  Carmel  College,Bangalore , Chennai-based writer Hemalatha Ramani contributes to newspapers,magazines and blogs.She is the author of a travel book, Soulscapes:Travels and Conversations in India)  She  writes under the name  of Hema Iyer Ramani.

Nisha Aggarwal, a Delhi-based artist/writer currently working as an art educator, visits Dal Lake with a fresh vision, remembering her childhood fantasies.

Perhaps, since my childhood,whenever I imagined Kashmir, it has always been a picture of floating Shikaras into Dal Lake, because that was the first saved picture of Kashmir in my mind while looking at any poster of touristic attraction or while watching the television. That time I used to think of planning a trip to Kashmir but never even imagined that someday I would live in Kashmir, and that too so near to Dal Lake where I could be able to visit it almost daily. Now, when something I never imagined has become a reality, I would say it never belied my fanciful and resplendent mental pictures about the place. Although, Kashmir has many places to visit within Srinagar (summer capital of Jammu & Kashmir) and outside, but Dal Lake has reserved the place of ‘Srinagar’s Crown’ or‘Jewel’ in the crown of Kashmir.

If I go into its history, Dal Lake is mentioned as ‘Mahasarit’ in ancient Sanskrit texts. Ancient history records mention that a village named Isabar to the east of Dal Lake was the residence of goddess Durga.This place was known as Sureshwari on the bank of the lake, which was sourced by a spring called the Satadhara. During the Mughal period, the rulers of India designated Kashmir, particularly Srinagar as their summer resort. Here they developed the vicinage of the Dal Lake with excursive Mughal-type gardens and pavilions as pleasure resorts, to enjoy the recuperative quench climate.After the death of Aurangzeb in 1707, which led to the disintegration of the Mughal Empire,Pashtun tribes in the area around the lake and city increased, and the Durrani Empire ruled the city for several decades.

In 1814,a significant part of the Kashmir valley, including Srinagar, was annexed by Raja Ranjit Singh to his kingdom; and, the Sikhs grew in influence in the region for 27 years. During the British Raj, the British also made Srinagar their capital during the summer months, attracted by the cool climate of the Kashmir valley, amidst the back drop of the majestic snow covered Himalayan ranges. The lake precincts experience temperatures in the range of 1-11 °C (34-52 °F) during winter and 12-30 °C (54-86 °F) during the summer season. The lake freezes when temperatures drop to about -11 °C (12 °F) during severe winter. Although, the Dogra Maharaja of Kashmir restricted the building of houses in the valley, the British circumvented this rule by commissioning lavish houseboats to be built on the Dal Lake. After the independence of India, the Kashmiri Hanji people built, owned, and maintained these houseboats, cultivating floating gardens and producing commodities for the market, making them the Centre of their livelihoods. The houseboats, closely associated with Dal Lake also provide accommodation in Srinagar.

And now, when I am residing in Srinagar since more than a year, I have confronted the various faces of the Dal Lake in different circumstances. Dal Lake is imperative to Kashmir tourism, and also an important source for commercial operations in fishing and water plant harvesting. The lake covers an area of 21.1 square kilometers, being a part of a natural wetland, including its floating lotus gardens, known as ‘Rad’ in Kashmiri, which blossom with lotusesin the month of July and August. But, apart from the fanciful touristic visit, finding pleasure of waving onto water while sitting in Shikara and watching the mountains from there, Dal Lake has served many more meanings to me. What I like about it the most is its shore line of about 15.5 kilometers which encompasses the various Ghats, houseboats, and on the other side,Mughal Gardens (Like Shalimar Bagh, NishatBagh, ChashmeShahi built during the reign of Mughal Emperor Jahangir), parks (Tulip Garden, Botanical Garden etc), restaurants,and hotels. If you are out to visit any of the places above including Sharkracharya temple and PariMahal, you will have to go by Dal Lake’s shoreline. It is worthy to take an evening walk even if you don’t want to visit any of the above places. The sizzling gathering of tourists, the sunset, sometimes cloudy sky, the silver-blue shining water, and fountains, can turn a dull evening into a gracious and energetic one.

Another face of Dal comes before the eyes when soon evening turns into serene night. The static houseboats, which show an example of Kashmiri wooden carvings in daytimes, now scintillate with colorful lights while spreading reflections onto the water. Generally, I wish to sit there in serene night all alone, allowing myself to plunge into various thoughts while looking the play of different colors over colorless water. I cannot forget a similar night when I was walking through Dal’s shore line as usual, and suddenly,my eyes encountered one of the former professors ofmy college where I studied, sitting there talking to someone. As I saw him, he too saw me, and that was a moment of surprise and wonder, which filled me with nostalgia. That night I travelled in bygone days, and the credit obviously goes to Dal as it stands as such a common place to visit by whoever comes to and lives in Srinagar.

I cannot forget the days of the month of March, when snowfall took place this year in Srinagar. I feel if Kashmir is known as ‘Jannat’ (heaven), it becomes true when snowfall happens. And, whenever snowfall happened I didn’t mind going to Dal Lake, and riding in a Shikaraall alone. Herewith, when I am trying to compile the various faces of Dal Lake I can’t resist remembering the devastating floods of Srinagar, which occurred exactly a year ago. At the time I confronted the Dal’s ruinous face, as it was completely coalesced into muddy floodwater, and there were no boundaries thatremained of Dal Lake and river Jhelum. But, thankfully it has overcomesoon and completely now erasing the scars the floods had left on its skin.

I would like to conclude with a few poetic words that describe Dal Lake’s ambience and feeling:

I float on Dal Lake, alone and suspended

I see blue water, green leaves and pink lotuses

Then reddish yellow chinar leaves fallen due to autumn

They seemed like maple leaves to me

I hear the prayers from mosque,

Holy words soaking the air

They make me more alone, empty and hollow

Just like thousands of houseboats lying empty
with beautifully carved furniture in it

Waiting for someone to come and to live in it…