Arati Desai

First political unrest and then the tsunami, Sri Lanka has been ravaged over the years yet, there is a sense of peace and fortitude that prevails over this small island. For the regular traveller neighbouring countries are an obvious choice for a holiday. Sri Lanka occupies a soft spot in the hearts of many an Indian   traveller, who opt not only for its proximity and easy accessibility but also for the old world charm the country has retained.

The famous circuit of the Sri Lankan holiday normally covers Colombo, Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, Ella and Galle but there is so much more to this quaint country. Being an island makes it an all around the year destination. Yes, there are 2 monsoons but one for each coast, so in the Indian summer months of May and June, the east coast of Sri Lanka is the perfect holiday destination. Eastern Sri Lanka surprises with its diverse experiences – heritage, cultural experiences, world heritage sites, beautiful beaches, wildlife and surf waves.

Starting from Colombo, head straight to Dumbulla.  Dumbulla’s famed rock cave temple complex is       Sri Lanka’s largest and most well preserved temple complex. Five separate caves dating back to the 1^st century BC hold 150 Buddhist statues and paintings which are 2000 years ago. These caves bear a spiritual atmosphere which is enhanced by many epochs of Sinhala sculpture and Sinhala art, marking one of the many memorable experiences in the country.

The next day visit the ancient rock fortress Sigiriya, perched on a 200 meter tall rock plateau. Sigiriya, the lion rock, a world heritage site is truly an architectural marvel. Some of the unique features of this 5^th century fortress complex includes remains of a king’s palace, surrounded by an extensive network of fortifications, vast landscaped gardens, ponds, canals, alleys and fountains. While it served as a monastery since the 3^rd century till the 5^th century, King Kashyapa converted it into his royal residence  and it remained so for 13 years (473- 496 AD) till he died. Thereafter it returned to being a monastery till the 14^th century when it was abandoned. Apart from its splendid architecture, Sigiriya is also known for its amazing frescos dating back to till date to the 7^th-8^th century. Of these delicately painted frescos 18 are still visible. Tourists have been visiting this monumental site since hundreds of years and continue to even more so today.

Heading to the north of Sri Lanka, drive 100 kms to Trincomalee. The city, recovering from several years of civil war which ended in 2009, is now accessible to tourists. The population is a diverse mix of Sinhalese, Tamils and Muslims. The coastal beach town of Nilaveli is a popular tourist destination peppered with several resorts and cafes. There is a lot to do here like Snorkeling on Pigeon Island, whale watching (from March to August)   and a visit to the historic Koneswaram Temple. Remnants of Tricomalee’s violent past can be seen in the war memorials. One of the most beautiful is ‘The Trincomalee War Cemetery’ which honours the British and French soldiers that fought to win this natural harbor.

From Trincomalee, leave for Arugam Bay via Passikudah. ‘Passikudah’ means green algae beach and its beach is so pristine that you feel you are in a different world all together. With hardly any hotels and even lesser tourists at this beach, it is the perfect place for solitude seekers who need just the ocean and a good book. Offering an extended shallow coastline, the beach is perfect for shallow swimming.

Arugam Bay in itself has a whole lot to explore, be it the Panama beach, the crocodile groves or the Kumana National Park or the surf waves. You will find Aussies, Germans and even Israelis coming to surf here. This leads to a great number of hotels and restaurants offering western options as well as traditional Srilankan Cuisine. You can find the best pizza in Sri Lanka over here. Arugam Bay has a sort of Goan feel about it. Foreign tourists, food joints, accommodation of different categories, good food.

The next destination southwards is Yala, one of the country’s best national parks which is said to have the largest density of leopards in the world. Yala national park has a protected area of 978 square kms   and is home to 44 varieties of mammals and 215 species of birds. Wild elephants roam the road adding to the charm of the Park which has a surreal combination of a breathtaking beach and jungle lands. The organized safaris at Yala operate twice a day. From Yala it’s back to Colombo.

On the way to Colombo one passes several quaint beach towns like Mirissa, Galle and Bentota. Mirissa is known for exhilarating whale sightings from November to April. Again hotel options range from budget to luxury. Further on one should take a short stop over at Galle. This fortified city was built by the Dutch in 1588 but fortified by the Portuguese in the 17^th century, is Asia’s largest standing fortress built by the Europeans. The fort city has a character of its own with colonial architecture, cobblestoned pavements, swanky shops, quaint restaurants, a pretty lighthouse and numerous monitor lizards.  Galle is also home to the Galle International Stadium which is considered one of the most picturesque stadiums in the world. Devastated by the 2004 tsunami, Galle has regained its glory and beauty.

The last stop of the trip is Colombo, the country capital which has something for everyone. Shopping, Casinos, restaurants, distinctive buildings like the Independence memorial hall, the Viramahadevi Park  and temples like the famed Gangaramaya Buddhist temple and the Hindu temple – Kailawasanathan Swami Devasthanam Kovil. Evenings see tourists visit Galle face green, an urban park on the sea face extending up to 500 meters.  Colombo is connected to other parts of the country by trains as well as buses. The bustling city is getting even busier with skyscrapers and other commercial developments, a contrast to the rest of the quiet and relatively less busy east coast.

There is something special about Sri Lanka apart from its tea and that’s its people. The simplicity of the people and vibrancy of their smiles runs through the country. The colours of the sea and the lovely green expanse radiate serenity. With speed limits on the highway set at a maximum of 70 kmph for cars and buses, you are sure to look out of the window and learn to see again. Due to its long civil conflict, Sri Lanka was not always a tourist destination but today it enchants its visitors, making them promise to return again.

Eminent Senior Artist Vinod Shah’s recent retrospective exhibition held at the Sarjan Art Gallery, Vadodara (From 24th Sept. to 15th Oct.) was a visual treat for the viewers.

Country landscapes, urban scapes in light pinks and several tones of blue with pencil drawings, touches of brush strokes were sensitive renderings of abstract art.

Forms of women set in rural landscape as well as the city home interiors were presented with utmost grace. Still life and architectural forms were simple visuals seen composed in magical, serene and quietly exuberent colours. A rich aura of lyricism dominated all the visuals.

Speaking about Vinod Shah’s works Late eminent artist Shri K.G. Subramanyan said “A kind of fluid poetry is the hallmark of Vinod Shah’s paintings. It alters the characters of whatever media he puts to work. It also reorders the anatomy of whatever subject of theme he works around”

Another senior artist, Prof. Jyoti Bhatt said :

“Vinod Shah has worked using various mediums including serigraphy, oils and collage in which he has often used three dimensional forms. But his real forte is the transparent and translucent water soluble mediums, namely water colour and acrylic paints”.

Eminent Artist N.S. Bendre used to be Vinod Shah’s teacher at the Faculty of Fine Arts in Baroda. He once asked his students to define a good work of art. No one could answer this question. Prof. bendre then answered his own question.

He said ‘What happens when one throws a pebble in a still lake? Ripples are created in the water and that is exactly what should happen when you look at a good work of art. There should be ripples of joy created in your heart.’ This is exactly happens when one looks at Vinod Shah’s works. There are ripples of joy created in one’s heart and much more, as arresting visuals linger on in one’s memory forever.

India is a vast country that is so diverse, that within 100 kms in a state you would find a new culture, language and religion. India is mostly about colours, cultures, sweets, religions, beautiful landscape and much more. I have been travelling in India for the past 7 years. In 2012, being a 19-year-old, I went on my first summer expedition to Mumbai on a local train and was engulfed with the diversity that existed in that compartment. And soon as I started travelling alone, I discovered myself in my own country. I was filled with warmth and love, gratitude and celebration wherever I would arrive. This became an addiction soon, and sooner I would skip my university to get lost in this vast country.

Way to Leh

But then two years back I visitedAuroville almost unexpectedly for an internship, and decided to stay back. In 2019 summer, almost after a year and half in Auroville, I wanted to step out again and venture into the wild. This time I was not travelling alone but with Manolo(a Dutch resident of Auroville and my boyfriend). After6 months of being together I shared my adventures with him and no wonder he craved to jump in. 2019 summer was a very special one, once again I wanted to travel back to the mountains. I started with Manali, and from here on we decided to travel on a motorbike trip(very inspired by a Hollywood movie “The Motorcycle Diaries”) to Jespa and then to Zingzingbar.For the first two nights we were supposed to stay in Manali and hire a bike for further journey.I soon realized that, with the influx of tourism, Manali 2019 cannot be differentiated from a local market in Delhi. I remember travelling to Manali when I was 15 and now,being 26 within a span of 11 years the drastic change that has taken place, seemed like a nightmare. Every inch of the place has been polluted with plastic waste and hundreds and hundreds of cars lined up in traffic. I had travelled all this way up with a very passionate and deep hope of breathing cool fresh air of the mountain but unfortunately our fate had something else instore for us. Doomed in dismay, but still with a lot of hope we wanted to continue our journey. But as soon as I sat on the bike, I could feel myself getting lost among the thousands travelling up the Rohtang pass.

Zingzingbar

The white snow over the mountains, were covered with a black veil of tar. As we still kept moving forward, I understood that the situation would only get worse and decided to prepare myself for all the guilt and frustration. No doubt that I was contributing enough to the pollution caused by the many cars and vehicles driving up. At one point we decided to rest at a local café thinking we would be able to enjoy a local cuisine. But my desire to do so was questioned by consumerism and commercialism. The whole café was full of packets and packets of Maggi and tons of candies wrapped in plastic inside dozens ofglass jars. I was so depressed by this time that I could feel my adventure collapsing. But it was not just about pollution anymore, it was about humanity as well. My whole body was shivering at this point, the country has been blinded with commercialism, has been blinded with religions, has been blinded to divide and rule. But we didn’t give up, we kept going until we reached Jespa and then drove the next day to Zingzingbar.

Writer : Pujasree Burman
Photo Courtesy : Pujasree Burman

Image Courtesy: WikiMedia

Shantanu Samanta

I visited Kufri in December 2016, in its peak of snowing. We faced no problem in finding accommodation. Kufri is the lifeline, the heart and soul of Shimla. Our drive was exhausting because of so much traffic. However, when we reached there, all our tiredness went away, it is a wonderful place, full of adventures! We did bungee jumping, rope climbing and what not! Also the horse and the yak rides were fabulous! You will have to buy a ticket of 400 rupees for horse riding. The ride is for one hour. It is a very crowded place. You can also buy various traditional items from there like Himachali caps, woodcraft items, Shimla shawls, etc. The best thing about the place is the evenings. Honestly, the beauty of the place gets enhanced manifolds and adds a romantic touch to your stay. The people of Kufri are also very awesome, and it is an overall safe place. In case you decide to go in summers, you will not find any snow, but it will still be beautiful and peaceful. Unlike Shimla which is overcrowded, the temperature of Kufri is usually low because of its height. I highly recommend a trip to Kufri, especially if you are planning to go to Shimla.

Shaili Nagpal

We visited Kufri during the first week of November, 2015. We had to take horses in order to reach the destination. Each will get an individual horse, which is a good thing. But the path is risky since there are steep slopes on either side of the roads and there is no proper fencing. We felt nervous to travel by horses. When we did reach there after a long, dangerous ride there was nothing interesting to see. A total waste of time and money. Kufri is basically a very barren land where all you can see are yaks, and you can only click pictures with them. The local daily-wage workers seeking to maximize profits may try to dupe you by selling a ride on khacchars (mules). Do not take them as they will ask for almost Rs. 350 to Rs. 400 saying the distance is a very long one. When you reach you will see it was hardly 2-3 kms. And by the way they don’t even care about their animals. I will recommend you to go up by walking as it is a fairly smooth and easy trail and it will take you maximum half an hour to go. And beware of the khacchars as they are not in control of their owners, they may mistakenly push you over. If you have a lot of time then maybe you can go otherwise there are many places to visit in Shimla. The weather was very chilly but we were disappointed to not see any snow. The place was also really dry. There are many small eateries there. You can take photos by wearing different costumes for rent. They will take you to some place telling there is an apple garden. There is nothing like that.

Accessibility was not that tough as Kufri is well connected to cities like Shimla and Kalka with quality transportation. Hotels were very cheap as well, but the services offered by them dashed all my hopes of having quality accommodation. People were good and the city is very safe even at nights.

However, in my honest opinion, I did not like Kufri.

There really is nothing like the Great British Festival. And I’m one of many who would argue that you’ve not really experienced true British culture at its finest until you’ve been to one – and that means camping there too!

Music festivals have been an important staple in the culture for decades. Ever since the swinging 60’s and 70’s Britain has been home to world famous festivals such as ‘The Isle of White Festival’, ‘Leeds and Reading Festival’ and ‘Glastonbury’. Ever since the peace and love era, the demand and popularity of festivals in the UK has only grown and now we see a staggering variety of festivals to choose from, with new independent festivals being born all the time!

Whether you want to max out and go ‘Glamping’ at Glastonbury, or on a shoestring budget, you can find something truly magical.

The summertime is without a doubt the best time to visit the UK. In a country plagued with freezing rain and wind for almost all months of the year, Brits really do live for the summer. And it’s no coincidence the summer season is Festival season!

Being at a festival is like stepping into another world; a world of freedom and completely unbridled creativity; a place where kookiness and art unashamedly come to life.

If you’re travelling to the UK this summer, visiting one of its music festivals is the perfect way to explore the gorgeous British countryside as well as get a feel for the great creative culture. Our feature article on the UK’s best and most affordable independent Fests will help you find the right place for you.

1) Love Saves The Day Festival – Eastville Park, Bristol

Saturday 27th & Sunday 28th May 2017

Bristol is one of the UK’s famous art capitals. This city is a hotbed of Artists, Activists, Musicians and performers; it makes a perfect destination for anyone wishing to travel to the UK.

Love Saves the Day Festival is set in the easy to access ‘Eastville Park’ just north of the city.

Here’s the festival creators description of the event “After years filled with attending festivals and club nights, days spent trudging sound systems through muddy fields and even more nights occupied on sweatbox dance floors, the ideas behind Love Saves The Day Festival finally got their first home as a one-day event in Castle Park back in 2012.

Fast-forward 6 years and the original experiences which spurred the festival’s beginning now have a story of their own, as Love Saves The Day aims to combine the best of Bristol’s thriving underground with pioneering artists from across the globe, showcasing a huge variety of different genres and musical styles in one amazing space.”

Love Saves The Day festival hosts an impressive variety of national and international artists on its Main Stage as well as 5 other areas around the site.

Tickets and further information are available at http://lovesavestheday.org/

Day tickets as well as full weekend tickets are available.

How to Travel There

Bristol is easily accessible via train from all major cities in the UK, and advance train fairs can be found at very reasonable prices. Rail travel is incredibly easy to plan through the UK’s national rail website http://www.nationalrail.co.uk/

Eastville Park is accessible via bus (Number 47) or taxi from the centre of Bristol, and takes around 5 – 10 minutes.

Where to Stay
If you want a genuine experience, pitch up a tent for the weekend. However if you really don’t want to brave the outdoors for the weekend then local B&B (Bed and Breakfast) accommodation can be found from as little as 18 GBP per night.

2) Nozstock – The Hidden Valley. Herefordshire, West Midlands.

21- 23^rd July 2017

“Amid the emerald fields and raggle-taggle farmhouses of Herefordshire’s ruralest countryside lies Nozstock The Hidden Valley”- Nozstock website.

(Nozstock 2016 – photography by Chloe Soffe)

Nozstock is set in the beautiful Herefordshire countryside in the West Midlands. A truly family friendly haven of creativity, at Nozstock you’ll find a wonderfully eclectic mix of music, performance art, dance, comedy, film and just about anything else you can think of! Each year Nozstock surprises festival goers with adding something new and exciting to the mix. With its themed weekends, festival goers have the opportunity really dress the part and become immersed in the world of Noz.

Here’s the creators description of Noz:

“Curated by the father and daughter duo of Noz and Ella and a huge extended family who work across the entire festival, there’s a unique charm and energy to Nozstock unlike anything else in the country. Reaching its 19^th year in summer 2017, Nozstock is an enchanting adventure nestled in gorgeous rolling hills.  

 Set on a beautiful working farm in the heart of the Herefordshire countryside, the reassuringly welcoming and independent event has evolved from 50 friends gathered at the inaugural gathering and flourished into an intimate musical odyssey. Joining the dots between pop, ska, folk, funk, soul, indie, drum and bass, psytrance, house and a whole lot more, plus interactive adventure and performance for big and small kids of all ages, Nozstock is a playground for everyone, from seasoned festival goers to newbies setting out for their very first time.

 The festival features a huge range of entertainment, activities and inspiration for families and kids. Nozstock embraces a whole family festival experience from beginning to end, and the Children’s Space is a friendly welcoming environment for both parents and little ones alike.”

Day tickets as well as full weekend tickets are available at www.nozstock.com

How to travel there

The location of this gorgeous festival is slightly remote (which adds to the magic!) but the good news it it’s completely accessible via public transport. The festival site is on the outskirts of a small town called Bromyard in the beautiful rural Herefordshire countryside.

The closest train stations to Nozstock are in Hereford and Worcester. A limited amount of local buses also run from Hereford and Worcester to Bromyard Pump Street bus stop on Friday, Saturday and Monday. You can then catch the free shuttle bus running from The Conquest Theatre Bromyard or Bromyard Rugby Club to the festival site. Coaches straight to the site are also available from both Worcester and Herefordshire train stations. All travel information is available at http://nozstock.com/about/directions/

( Nozstock 2016 – Photography by Charlie Rimmer)

Where to stay

You can bring your own tent and pitch up at the festival campsite, or opt for a pre-pitched tent or glamorous ‘Zoobell’ tent which can be booked through the festival website.

3) Secret Garden Party –  Abbots Ripton (near Huntingdon)

20th – 23rd July 2017.

The festival was launched in 2004 as an alternative to the well established mainstream festivals, Secret Garden Party has increased in size since it first started and is now a popular spot for those wishing to step away for the mainstream crowd for a weekend.

Day tickets and full weekend tickets are available on the website http://www.theticketsellers.co.uk/tickets/secret-garden-party-2017/10041476

How to travel there

The Secret Garden Party is 70 miles out of central London in the East Anglia countryside near Huntingdon. The nearest train station to the site is Huntingdon, and there are also bus services and taxis running to the site. More travel details are available on the festivals website http://www.secretgardenparty.com/whats-what/travel-transport/

Where to stay

The most affordable option is to bring your own tent and pitch up at the festival campsite, however an impressive variety of alternative and boutique camping is through the festival website http://www.secretgardenparty.com/boutique-camping/

4) Barefoot Festival – Leicestershire

Barefoot Festival is set in the Leicestershire countryside at Pretswold Hall, Pretswold.

It’s a weekend full of eclectic music, yoga, meditation, alternative therapies, workshops, dance and much more. There is a real family friendly vibe at this festival so perfect if you have young children.

This festival is by far the most affordable weekend festival featured here, and with the number of workshops and events it has to offer, is fantastic value for money.

Here is the organizers description of the Fest  ”Barefoot Festival™ is all about getting back to basics, getting grass in between your toes and taking time out from the pressures of modern life! Try something you’ve never done before, spend quality time with the family and meet likeminded new friends. You won’t find big fancy sponsors at Barefoot Festival™, we’re a grassroots community gathering and all profits are ploughed right back into improving the facilities at our events. Relax, unwind and refresh yourself with a weekend in the beautiful great British countryside!”

Day tickets as well as full weekend tickets are available at http://www.barefootfestival.com/barefoot-festival-buy-tickets.php

How to travel there

The nearest train station is Loughborough with good rail and bus connections to both the north and south. More travel information can be found at the festival website http://www.barefootfestival.com/barefoot-festival-essential-info-getting-to-barefoot.php

Where to stay

It’s recommended to camp at the site for the duration of the festival, you can bring your own tent or opt for a pre-pitched tent via the website.

5) End Of The Road – Larmer Tree Gardens, Dorset

31 Aug – 3 Sep 2017

End of The Road festival began in 2005 as a dream of music lover and festival goer Simon Taffe, who wanted to create an environment where the love of music was the key feature. To this day the festival has remained true to its roots, having no theme, just presenting artists they feel passionate about, and creating a unique, relaxed and friendly environment. The gardens it is set in only contributes to the magic, creating an Oasis away from normality. Each year End of the road festival features art installations and unique decorated spaces.

Tickets can be purchased on their website http://endoftheroadfestival.com/tickets/

How to get there

End of The Road Festival is located at Larmer Tree Gardens, near Blandford, in Dorset.

An affordable way to get to the site is via National Express coaches where you can receive group discounts for groups over 4.

The nearest train station is Salisbury from which there is a direct shuttle bus service to the festival site. More travel information can be found at http://endoftheroadfestival.com/information/travel

Where to stay

There are 6 campsites at End Of The Road festival, including family camping, disabled campsite and quiet area. More information can be found on the festival website http://endoftheroadfestival.com/information/general-information/

 6) Boomtown Fair – Winchester

10 – 13^th August 2017

Boomtown is a music and arts festival, which since its inception in 2009 has grown rapidly to become one of the top 10 most popular festivals in the UK. The elaborate mythology behind the creation of Boomtown Fair is a huge part of the Festival, informing it’s themes of aliens and monsters, Aztecs and cowboys. The festival is set in a makeshift town created especially for the event.

Here’s Boomtowns overview of the event:

“Boomtown is one of the UK’s most innovative independent festivals, leading the way in terms of set design and production values. Offering its 60,000+ attendees a fully immersive, theatrically-led experience, with hundreds of actors bringing the nine uniquely themed districts to life and the mega stage sets create a festival experience unlike any other.  From the mind-blowing stages to backstreet mini-venues, Boomtown offers over 120 music venues to discover a soundtrack consisting of a huge spectrum of musical genres; including folk, dub, soul, funk, reggae, world, drum and bass”

How to travel there

Discounted coach tickets are available thorugh the Big Green Coach company, which run coaches from 55 different locations throughout the UK. More information of travel can be found on Boomtowns website http://www.boomtownfair.co.uk/info/travel/ with travel available from the UK, France and Switzerland. The closes train station to the event is Winchester, and a shuttle bus service operates from Winchester Train Station directly to the site.

Where to stay

There is general and family camping available at Boomtown, along with options for ‘Boutique’ camping available through the website.

On a shoestring budget? 

For many of us who are feeling the pinch this year in terms of budget, a fantastic way to enjoy festivals for free is by volunteering at them.
Almost all festivals, large scale and independent, accept volunteers who all contribute to the vibrant atmosphere at these events. There are many type of volunteers at festivals from bar work to stewarding, and most take a commitment of a few hours work per day.
If you are a performer or have a skill you can show off, many festivals, especially smaller independent types, accept applications for walkabout performers.
Just check out the festival websites for volunteer opportunities.

From West to East: Travel Interview

For decades India has been a most sought after holiday destination for westerners.  Since The Beatles made their first pilgrimage to Transcendental Meditation retreat in Riskikesh in 1968, India has been ever popularised and its image imbued with a sense of exotic mystery, spirituality and an essence of the unknown. Indian aesthetics are used throughout western popular culture and fashion, with designers in film, television and the music industry looking to India’s rich and beautiful culture and have woven it into western contemporary culture. To the western mind, India is a land rich with oriental magic, the ultimate escape for those wishing to ditch the overcast cold which plagues the UK most of the year.  Advancements of globalisation mean it is now easier than ever to make these long haul journeys across the world to experience it firsthand.

Travel and Deal interviews Raj Singh Gore, a young British National of Punjabi origin about his recent trip with friend Sophie (also a young British National) as they travel to various destinations in Northern India.

On the banks of the Ganga (photo credit – Raj Singh Gore)

T+D:  So first of all, tell me why you chose India as a holiday destination. What in particular drew you to travel here?

RSG:  I traveled to my family home in Punjab earlier last year, in April, to attend the wedding of a family friend. I spent time with my cousin as he showed me around Punjab, and after seeing how amazed I was by the sites and scenes in Punjab said to me “If you think this is good, just wait until you see the rest of India!” and urged me to travel to other areas. I was just so intrigued by how vast India is, and amazed at how such a variety of cultures, landscapes and wildlife can exist within the same country. I mean, you’ve got beaches, snowy mountains, deserts, forests, hill tops and flat lands all in the same country.  And the weather is so different from North to South. I wanted to explore different places in India and experience the rich variety the country has to offer, rather than only going to Punjab.

T+D: So as you’ve told me, this isn’t your first time travelling to India. How many times in the past have you visited?

Previous to this trip, I have been twice. Once when I was very young, I don’t remember much of that trip, and then again last year. The first two trips were with family, and this time I traveled with my friend Sophie.

T+D: As you mentioned before, this was Sophie’s first time travelling to India, and your first time without your family; did you have any concerns about that?

RSG: I was very nervous on the flight to India from the UK, but also excited at the same time. As soon as I arrived in India I realized that I had to learn to be independent, and the whole experience definitely has taught me that.

T+D: How did you travel once you arrived in India?

Our flight departed from Heathrow Airport in London, and our connecting flight was from Bahrain straight to Indira Gandhi International Airport in New Delhi.

While in Delhi we took the metro to travel around the city, which was absolutely amazing! The Delhi metro system is even better than the London Underground! It is much easier to use and more efficient.

We originally planned to stay at a hotel in Paharganj, but our hotel wasn’t as nice as it seemed on the website and we wanted to escape the hectic atmosphere of Delhi. So we found a tourist information center and booked a tourist taxi straight to Jaipur, Rajasthan. Once in Jaipur we used a mixture of public transport like trains, buses and rickshaws, and also walked wherever we could. I was lucky as a few of our rickshaw drivers spoke Punjabi, so language was less of an issue.

T+D: What did you do first once you arrived in Jaipur?

We only spent two days in Jaipur, and in that time we tried to see as many of the frequented tourist attractions as possible. First we visited Amber Fort in Amer, we were captured by the beautiful architecture of the building and the gardens. After visiting Amber fort we went to the famous Galta Ji ‘Monkey Temple’.

(The pink city – photo credit Raj Singh Gore)

However our favorite site during our time in Rajasthan was Pushkar. We explored the whole of Pushkar including the famous Jagatpita Brahma Mandir and were stunned by the vast rolling desert landscapes. Pushkar really stood out as my favorite place in Rajasthan, the atmosphere there was just so peaceful. I have seen a lot of the congested, chaotic side of India, particularly in Delhi which is known for its intense traffic and constant hustle. Pushkar was like an oasis of calm for me. There was just something about the place, something completely tranquil. It was refreshing to see places of worship of so many different religions all on one place; there were Gurdwara, Jain temples, Hindu Mandirs all in the same vicinity. You could really sense that this was a spiritual place; there was an almost holy presence there. I would definitely recommend going. Just hop on the train and go!

(Pushkar -Photo credit – Raj Singh Gore)

T+D: And after Rajasthan, what was next?

RSG: We went from Rajasthan to Varanasi by train.

It was just out of this world. I don’t even know how to explain how amazing it was! Soon after arriving there, we just sat on the bank of the Ganga River, not even doing much; we just sat there for hours on end. And what’s best is that we got to spend Diwali there! The fireworks were breathtaking, and we must have been out until 2 am joining in with the festivities.

One of my best memories of my entire trip to India was going to the Ganga Aarti in Varanasi, which was absolutely magical. It’s difficult to convey in words how brilliant it was. You just have to be there to really understand it.

T+D: How did the reality of India differ from your preconceptions of how it would be? And this goes for Sophie as well, what was her perception of seeing India for the first time as a UK national.

RSG: I really love India, I have been twice previously and already had an idea of what to expect, and this trip has only led me to appreciate it more. But I think Sophie found it a little more difficult to adjust. She found it very hectic, and the food didn’t agree with her. She found certain things shocking, for example the living conditions of the poorest in society, which is visible in the majority of places you go in India, and also the stray dogs and the condition many of them were in.

(Photo credits – Raj Singh Gore)

T+D: What did you find to be the most different culturally?

RSG: Definitely the driving! And the fact that people seem much friendlier in India. I think that was mainly due to the fact people knew we were tourists from the UK, but we found everyone to be so helpful.

T+D: Has your recent trip to India influenced where you would travel next?

RSG: Yes of course. It’s made me realize the possibilities of travelling alone, without family. So I am going to travel more of India, and hopefully more of the world! I think my next trip will be to South India.

Janapada Loka … a trip down memory lane – Hema Iyer Ramani

“In the great cities we see so little of the world, we drift into our minority. In the little towns and villages there are no minorities; people are not numerous enough. You must see the world there, perforce. Every man is himself a class; every hour carries its new challenge. When you pass the inn at the end of the village you leave your favourite whimsy behind you; for you will meet no one who can share it. We listen to eloquent speaking, read books and write them, settle all the affairs of the universe. ……The ancient map-makers wrote across unexplored regions, ‘Here are lions.’ Across the villages of fishermen and turners of the earth, so different are these from us, we can write but one line that is certain, ‘Here are ghosts.’ (“Village Ghosts”)”

W.B.Yeats, The Celtic Twilight:Faerie and Folklore.

Life often is like that. We breeze through our youth rushing past ,without noticing things around us. When we move into the cities, our villages become only memories that trail behind.  We carry these ‘ghosts’ and try to understand them only when we are well past  our prime. With the passing of time, cultural memories get hidden and lost unless they find their way into books or museums.

It was one such dream of a single man called Nage Gowda(Senior Bureaucrat)to keep alive folk traditions  concentrated and afresh within 15 acres of land  . 53 kilometres away from Bengaluru, on the way to Mysore in Ramnagara district  is the beautiful folk village museum called Janapada Loka. An imposing gateway with metal work of trumpets , horns and harige(shield) that adorn it immediately holds the attention of the viewer. As soon as you walk through the gateway, you are greeted by massive  Nandidwajas standing tall and majestic on either side of the pathway. The  lush greenery is instantly soothing to the eyes, and it does not seem too difficult to walk across the long stretch of land,  for there are stone benches  all around and winding pathways with tiny shelters where you could halt and rest before proceeding to different museums. The monkeys and the geese kept us company as we sauntered ahead.

Our first stop was at the Lokamata Mandira , where a variety of household utensils and agricultural tools that were in use in rural Karnataka are in display. A folk artiste( clad in trousers and shirt)took us around explaining the purpose and function of each of them, and we found we were actually familiar with some of them in our own grandparents’ homes- grinding stones, coconut graters, saavige(sevai) maker, and so on. Tall urns  that towered over us were used to store ragi, the staple food .Seeing our sincere interest, he went on talk about folksongs, and we discovered just how talented he was when we heard his magical, deep-throated voice reverberate across the area. All that  talk of grains and millets , the food, the way it was cooked soon made us hungry. We soon headed to the  Lokaruchi Upahara Mandira. Traditional food was served on plantain leaves-delicacies hitherto forgotten except in some traditional homes, where closely guarded secrets lay hidden and tucked away. Kadubu idli wrapped in plantain leaf, mango pulp saaru, Ragi mudde, jolada rotti and akki rotti to mention a few. I recalled eating  piping hot ragi mudde once long back. It was served on a plate with a stone underneath. Saaru would be poured , wetting the mudde just lightly but not keeping it spongy. It reminded me of the coffee plant grown on slopes- it needs water , but not stagnant .

Here mudde was served hot with a dollop of ghee poured generously. The speciality of eating a mudde is you dip it ever so lightly in saaru and  eat it hot, swallowing little balls , one at a time. A very popular dish among the village folks, not so much because it is a delicacy, but because it is extremely nutritious and was the farmer’s  manna, something that was easily available and very inexpensive. In fact, landlords who had to serve food on estates to their employees  fed them mudde because the workers could toil hard for long hours with the mudde sitting comfortably in their stomachs.

There was definitely a sense of déjà vu as one gobbled the mudde. But I felt I would have enjoyed the perfect scenario where I had to sit cross-legged in front of my plantain leaf served on a  mane( small wooden seat) instead o the hard wooden chair that I had sat on.

Of course, once you eat the mudde, you have no option but to start the walk  around the folk museum to digest the stubborn mudde ! Mudde thara koothir beda (don’t sit like mudde ) must have originated thus to prod people to toil so that it would digest.

We sauntered to the part  where the prized artefacts were stored. Loka Mahal  was truly impressive with its large collection of artefacts-large dolls of Yakshanagana and Garudi artistes, Kodava couple, a life-like bullock, leather puppets, war drums that when it was beaten produced the most powerful sound transporting us to a different  time altogether.

The place has a beautiful amphi-theatre as well, where performances are staged  on specific days. What was disappointing was the sight of the completely dry lake ,which explained as to why the geese kept walking all around the place and literally led us to a wild-goose chase toward the non-existent lake ! What is interesting however is that on the banks of the lake is housed a well equipped library that encourages students to re-search folk traditions: Janapada Loka offers certificates/diplomas recognized by the Bangalore University.

Life size dolls and animals depict the rural life style in an open court yard, where pottery is also demonstrated  by artistes. Of course it would be impractical to uproot a village and bring it here. Besides the agricultural implements, what did fascinate me was also the beautifully carved chariot in wood that was so strategically placed that you had to instantly stop before you proceeded any further.

We were fascinated by the Dodda Mane: it seemed to be fashioned after old village homes in rural Karnataka, with a central courtyard, exuding stark simplicity that one would associate with folk traditions. Dodda Mane lets out its space for people to conduct their weddings- a destination wedding amidst mango and  flowering trees, with chirping birds certainly sounds like a dream, for people who have lost all their ‘roots’ with their native villages. The place also serves to house all folk artistes visiting and staying at Janapada Loka.

( A  former lecturer of Political Science  at Mount  Carmel  College,Bangalore , Chennai-based writer Hemalatha Ramani contributes to newspapers,magazines and blogs.She is the author of a travel book, Soulscapes:Travels and Conversations in India)  She  writes under the name  of Hema Iyer Ramani.