Travel and Deal

An Agnostic’s Journey into Chattarpur Temples

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Much has been talked about Delhi’s priced religious possessions, Akshardham and Lotus Temple. As this issue of Travel & Deal deals with religious tourism, Paramjot Walia decided to take skeptical look at the famous Chattarpur Temple complex located a few kilometers away from Qutub Minar. She comes out with these observations.

Chattarpur Temple is famous not only for the grandeur of its architecture which makes the Shaktipeeth different from the other temples, but the moving spirit of its founder, Shree Baba Sant Nagpal, who dedicated his entire life for the service of the down trodden and the needy people.

It is a huge complex with a series of temples on either side of the road. Within the walls of the Chattarpur Temple complex, one can visit quite a lot of different types of temples devoted to Indian gods and goddesses in various forms viz. Goddess Laxmi, Lord Krishna, Lord Shiva and Lord Ganesha.  Set out to measure the unplumbed depth of my unacknowledged “religious” self, I had to literary stop and choose from where to start. I entered the main Maa Katayayani Kala mandir and started my “spiritual journey”.

At the entrance I was greeted by the sacred “Kalpa Vriksha”, planted by Baba at the time of Bhoomi Poojan (consecration of the land where the temple is to be built). What caught my eye was not the flock of people gathered around and praying nor the red sacred threads on the tree but a rabble of bees hovering under the tree. I immediately thought of basic hygiene and the possible health hazards caused by a bee sting. Devotees tying threads on the branches of the tree suggested ‘making a wish’. But would those wishes be granted from a place like that? Questions started haunting me. Yet, I kept my agnostic self under check and proceeded.

Giving air to my skepticism I went inside the mandir. I entered a prayer hall with a priest reciting his prayers. I did not intend to distract him but the beautiful silver architecture commanded me to stay. Apart from the silver latched door, which refused to open ,I noticed reflections of other religions in that prayer hall like Guru Gobind Singh Ji’s photo, symbolizing Sikhism. It did stupefy me for a minute but later gave me a sense of relief that I had not started a religious chauvinistic journey.

In the temple, two forms of Goddess Durga are commemorated. One shrine, located on the first floor, is dedicated to Maha Gauri (a form of Durga), which is open for ‘darshan’ every day. Another shrine is dedicated to Goddess Katyayani (also known as Mahishasur-mardini), where the devotees are allowed only on the day of ‘ashtami’ in each month. During the ‘Navaratra’ days one could have the darshan of Goddess Katyayani throughout the nine days.

 

Chattarpur Temple is carved entirely out of marble pieces. Cholas and Chalukyas style of architectural insight are prime influences on the overall construction style of this sanctum. Vimana and the Gopurams in the temple are typical to the Southern style. This is the architectural style that emerged in the Dravida Desam. The Gopuram in the Chattarpur Temple has two stories that have been separated by a horizontal moulding. The Prakara or the external wall, encompasses the chief shrine as well as the rest of the shrines which are smaller.

Roaming around the main temple appreciating the architecture I came across The ‘Sayya Kaksh’ or ‘Resting Hall’ of Durga Maa .It is decorated with a Mattress, Dressing Table, A Meeting Table with Nine Chairs (Shown to indicate the sitting location of the nine deities) all created of pure Silver and subsequent to the Meeting Table is a Wax Statue of Baba Ji noticed in a Standing position to welcome the Nine Deities and Goddess Durga. Visitors can catch a glimpse of this area by way of a glass panel. As you walk out of the Satsang Hall, the Shrines of Lord Hanuman and Ashtbhu Ji are seen opened to public only for the duration of the Navratra Festival.

From there I crossed over to the other side of the road and entered the main gate of Markandeya Mandapam Complex. It has a huge and imposing Trishul (Trident) of Lord Shiva standing on the back of the tortoise symbolizing the ‘Prithvi Tatva” (the solidarity –principle represented by the Earth).

Inspite of the rains I managed to see the beautifully carved Rath Bhawan and the Sree Nageshwar Temple. The Samadhi is directly below the Shree Nageshwar Temple on the first floor. Here the Shiva-Linga rising above the Shesh Nag coiled around, represents symbolically the immortal Eternal Creator.

Ending my Chattarpur Temple visit here I believe temples are vestiges of theism and the beliefs our ancestors held and grew upon .Though there is an exotic preposterousness about the way temples and deities are being constructed  still its pious calmness seeps in you and moves you little (if not much) closer to the Supreme power.