In almost 20 years this was my first one month long vacation which I spent in hot yet cool environs of my mountainous native place in Kokan. But as the day to return to Mumbai neared, I could sense my longing to be in Mumbai, especially to visit my favorite hangout place Colaba Causeway.
Colaba Causeway being a cultural and art hub with galleries, theatres, museum and residential areas that are backed by historic references, the place offers attractive, modern and trendy fashion fiesta with its pavement shopping galore that sell clothes, junk accessories etc attracting both Indian and tourists. One can not only hop and shop a whole day on these streets and study the place of old world charm that still holds stone-walled buildings, attractive squares, but along with it the one place that arouses taste buds to try out traditional and cultural cuisines that are offered at restaurants and cafes which are of our grand dad’s age or little more than that. At last, a day after my arrival in Mumbai I landed up there and felt like a fish taken out of water for a few minutes and put back again in water before it suffocated. A fish in me survived! I decided to explore all the eaters and restaurants that I could in a day’s time. I started with the square ahead of electric house and walked in a lane which has New Martin Hotel.
Seafood is always a healthy option for non-vegetarians and if it is from New Martin Hotel then everything becomes fair in dieting and over-eating! New Martin Hotel, at Strand Road, near Strand Cinema offers a Goan style seafood. Fresh fishes from Sasoon Dock include salmon, Bombay duck, mackerel, king fish, lobster, butter fish, gold fish, black promfret, octopus are the most loved varieties served hot either steamed, in curry or simply crispy fried. The ‘Sole-Kadhi’; a sweet and sour juicy preparation made from blend of kokum, green chilies and coconut juice is simply lip smacking! Fish, Sole-kadhi and rice is a complete meal that leaves you full and compels you to stroll after your stomach cries for little empty space to feel light.
Walking down towards Fort becomes interesting as we move watching and collection antiques and other things from the pavements. Cinema poster at Regal cannot be skipped and also a look at Lal Bahadur Shastri’s ‘Jai Jawan Jai Kisan’ slogan below his statue. Taking a left turn I visited National Gallery of Modern Art and after a long time I was back in my artist’s abode, watching the thoughtful paintings by legendry and new artists. It was just 4.00 p.m when a come out of the gallery, feeling fresh by being in air-conditioned gallery, but within seconds the sweltering heat and humidity caught me and I decide to go back again on the street of Colaba Causeway. The pavements have juice stalls where you get fresh fruit juices in minutes. But instead of going in for fresh fruits I urged to be a sporty and spirited with the chilled bear and some cool snacks, so which would be better place than Café Mondegar? Just down the block of Regal Cinema, I entered the ever crowded café and took a seat near entrance door (Luck was kind to me on, so I got a seat there). Café Mondegar has its own charm instead of being jam packed at any time of the day. With the best jukebox, cartoons on walls and carefree crowd it seems worries and bothers are afraid to enter here. Chilled bear is its specialty. The Chinese and Continental cuisines and snacks are preferred over Indian dishes. Nonetheless French fries are all time munching favorites with dudes who want to enjoy drink only with nominal munch. My spirits uplifted and feeling cool down my nerves I strolled back on the street. It is interesting that every lane, by-lane and road here leads to something interesting, worth watching and not to forget appetizing! I decide Gateway of India as my next destination. The cool breeze of Arabian Sea and huge Taj Mahal hotel on the opposite end has always been exciting for me. The fortress like Gate though built to welcome Queen Victoria, always gives me an illusion that it is there to welcome me (Wow! What a grand welcome I think to myself) and then there are these ‘Chana jor garam’ vendors who sell gram flakes with little tangy chili powder and a dash of lime. Though it is a cheap road side snack one cannot hold back the desire to have at least on serving. And also you cannot miss on Jumbo sized glass of fresh sugarcane juice.
Moving on I take a road behind Taj Mahal Hotel and enter the by- lane where there is Baghdadi restaurant just next to Bade Miyan. It’s a family style, non- air-conditioned restaurant famous for large sized Khaboos roti that can be eaten with mutton or chicken. But personally I prefer chicken preparation whether masala gravy or simply grilled. It’s awesome and fulfilling, but my girlfriends hesitate to come there as they find very odd sitting there and feel its little average in terms of service and hardly find any woman relishing meal over there.
Bade Miyan! What to say about it? It is Mumbai’s world famous road-side most sought after non-vegetarian joint. It’s a fun to take a new visitor to its location during day time and again in evening. During day time it is closed and the lane is comparatively quiet only with some shop owners and pedestrians hurrying for work. Located on a few feet away from Taj Mahal, it does not make any impression all through the day but ….come evening and the Bade Miyan projects its popularity. The lane is adorned with line of cars parked on the side and its makeover is like that of a fair. The three to four carts of Bade Miyan parked in line are full of Seekh Kababs, Chicken Egg Roll, Bhuna chicken, Chiken- tikka roll and not to side line- Rumali rotis! The atmosphere of mass enjoyment and chit-chatting people hogging together even post-midnight makes the place unique. It simply amazing being there and offers Value For Money. So all those who love to be alone yet be crowded with people this is the one place you should never miss when you are in Mumbai and close to huge Arabian Sea.
For all those who love organized setup of restaurants, with proper formal service and air-conditioned dining hall and attractive walls and seats you have Delhi Darbar that stands on the opposite side of the main road and adjacent to Electric House. It has Indian cuisine. Very well set-up, great service and above all great North Indian food. Simply have meals to heart’s delight.
On its left on the same side of the road is a small Café Olympia. It is my most favorite place to dine. It is very old café and legendary painter M.F.Hussain’s favorite place. There is nothing unusual or unique about this place. It has old world charm with the teak wood chair and tables with white marble base. A non-air-condition, simple café, is famous for its morning breakfast of Kheema Pao. It’s relishing to have it hot with a cup of Irani style tea or chai. The taste of this specialty and Mughlai dishes served here have not changed with times. The food is tasty and cheap. You can have a sumptuous meal within Rs 250. The rotis, Mutton masala, Chicken masala with additional Shorba if you want, great tasting Biryani, Aloo parathas or simply Tandoori chicken I love every dish served here. The waiters are soft spoken and never delay in serving. As you sit upstairs and watch all the staff bend in reverence to Allah during Namaaz time, you too admire their spirituality and feel peace within. Both Indians and tourists love it. In fact, my friends who are settled in foreign countries do visit Olympia when in India, Mumbai. To end the meal the best dessert you can opt for is Pudding, served in a simple plate with no garnishing. Also observe that on the counter there are Uncles in stainless white robes, they are owners of course, but I sometimes smile and think even the men on counters have dress code…
On the opposite side of Olympia stands more than 150 years old Leopold Café which came into being along with Café Mondegar, both built by Iranians. Leopold Café is always bustling mostly with tourists from all over the world. They chill out there with chilling beer and snacks. The dishes are bland but suits foreigners’ taste. It has some age old printout of ads of wine, food and also has paintings. After 26/11 attack, it has an addition of bullet marks on walls and glasses that attract people towards it.
Other attractions for foodies are the Ming’s Café, Café Churchill. Ming’s Café serves some of the superb Chinese cuisines and Café Churchill I like for its cozy atmosphere, fish and steaks.
For hygiene conscious people who want to enjoy Chaats, Paani puris, Paav-bhaaji Kailash Parbat is the right place. You can also have some vegetarian delights. Punjabi curries like methi matar malai, Paneer Mutter, Chana masala, Chole Bathure, Club Sandwich or Thali, different kinds of Lassi, Samosas and sweet dishes like rasgulla, gulab jamun and fresh fruit juices etc. Also one can try snacks at Gokul. For formal and quiet ambience enter Picadilly and have some peaceful, undisturbed dining experience.
The talk of food and food joint has wavered me from my writing about my day spent at Colaba Causeway, but I don’t mind. Even if I am not a Hotel Management graduate, I still have good taste for food and luckily I am able to serve my artistic instincts and appetite in the same area. Hope you too have and enjoy soon…
By Tathi Premchand
