Travel and Deal

The essence of Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj | Story & Photos : Muskan Grover

Posted on

“Peace is imbibed by the essence of balance and symmetry”

Which place do we manifest, while thinking about the peaceful Tibetan Buddhist culture? Probably for off-roading traveling enthusiasts, it will be Leh in Ladakh, Himachal Pradesh. Ladakh is a much older region in Buddhism, than Dharamshala. When it comes to diving deep into the art and culture of Tibetan Buddhism, Dharmshala & McLeod Ganj were the go-to places for the meditational art I seek.

The majority of Delhiites with their curiosity for Tibetan Buddhism, undoubtedly must have visited the slice of Tibet in Delhi, Majnu ka Tila. Other than the Tibetan cuisine, Majnu ka Tila monastery when explored from an art and cultural element, is embraced with Thangka/Scroll paintings of Buddha hung in the interior spaces of the monasteries as part of Tibetan architectural elements. Apart from thangka, another impactful art form, as part of their prayer & ritual practice is the “Mandala”.

The Mandala I knew

The Mandala I knew

Mandala, in general, originated from Hinduism and tangibly can be understood as a ‘Circle’. Many people post lockdown opted for self-exploration practices like yoga and meditational art therapies, ways of being in a balanced state of mind, and improved lifestyles. Hence, my purpose in the exploration of Mandala Art in Dharamshala was to see the similarities between a laymen’s free-form mandala artist and a Buddhist Monk’s prayer ritual on a Mandala. Being a Mandala Artist, I took the privilege of hearing from the monks about their angles on Mandala Art.

The Mandala I seek

The Mandala I seek

The markets of McLeod Ganj

Lying within a tiny spread in the upper parts of Dharamshala is McLeod Ganj. A place for party bombers, Tibetan handicrafts, handloom, Tibetan souvenirs, traditional and modern fashion. My journey started with exploring the markets of McLeod Ganj for art shops. One of the most popular markets in McLeod Ganj is the Bhagsu Nag Market, known for its collection of Tibetan handicrafts, including singing bowls, prayer flags and thangka paintings, prayer wheels. The sound of Singing Bowls is used as an aid of healing in Tibetan culture.

McLeod Ganj Central Square has a few shops selling Mandala Art. The local shopkeepers selling the Mandala Art, own almost all types of Mandalas, from Mantra Mandalas to the most typical form of a Mandala in Buddhism, the Kalachakra Mandala. Some of them get these Mandalas imported from the Nepal region whereas some of them get their supply from the local artisans in McLeod Ganj.

What to expect from the shopkeepers? They won’t know everything, but they will try to explain anything they know when generally asked about the significance of the artworks. Some of these thoughtful and delightful shopkeepers are the Potala Handicraft Shop, Tamang Thangka Art, and Tibetan Handicraft Centre.

Dharamshala’s Spiritual Enclave

Dharamshala is home to a vibrant Tibetan community and opens its gates to the mesmerizing experience of the Norbulingka Institute and Gyuto Monastery. These places were parallel to my purpose of exploration.

Norbulingka Institute named after the Dalai Lama’s summer palace in Lhasa is a place of retreat for the Tibetan culture. We all at some point love, Dadi Maa’s old recipe of achaar, chacha ke haath ki ghiya barfi, lohri ki raakh par pighlayi hui Gur Haldi, deewar par banayi hui traditional paintings, and what we the people of India who are even remotely interested in the traditional ancestral habits and rituals do, is that we try to incorporate them in our modern culture. Similarly, this is the whole essence of Norbulingka. It is a self-sustaining institute preserving traditional Tibetan arts and crafts and also works extensively as an economic resource for Tibetan refugees.

Architectural elements of Norbulingka Complex

Architectural elements of Norbulingka Complex

The architectural elements of Norbulingka are its intricate walls, exposed brickwork, symmetry proportion, and fresco walls. The whole complex is a vibrant blend. Moreover, the institute offers workshops including thangka painting, wood carving, applique work, tailoring, weaving, and screen printing.

Norbulingka Monastery

Norbulingka Monastery

On my trail for the Mandala, I went straight to the students at the Institute and gathered from a student that according to Tibetan Buddhism, a mandala is the deity’s dwelling place. The circle depicts the whole universe, within which are the deities, the guardian deities, animals, and natural elements of the earth. Well, that’s where our answer lies, A monk’s process of meditation begins with him imagining himself in the place of the deity understanding the nature of his surroundings while catching a bird’s eye view of the universe.

Students at Norbulingka Institute

Students at Norbulingka Institute

That’s where my journey en route to Gyuto Monastery, a Tantric Buddhism learning center as well as a monastery. Gyuto Monastery can easily be distinguished by its earthly-colored built structure. Gyuto Monastery is home to monks of all ages. They are extremely joyful and well-balanced with their routine for the day. Whatever they do, they are highly disciplined. It felt satisfactory to watch them pray and learn in unison, and when it comes to eating, they all go rushing like a bunch of kids instead of luring themselves here and there.

I had a hard time catching any of them to get to talk to me, many of them do not even speak any other language than Tibetic. Just when an old monk, agreed to spare five minutes for me, holding his eating bowl in hand. The monk joyfully told me “Hamko pucho ye sab purana chiz ke baare me, hum bada log bata payega” and that’s when I got their perspective on meditating through the diagrammatic form, which is the “Mandalas”.

Gyuto Monastery, Dharamshala

Gyuto Monastery, Dharamshala

They sit and as part of their prayer rituals, they understand each bit of a mandala, the third-dimensional mandala, the sand mandala. They study the meaning of the elements and the purpose of the deity, and since the elements hold within themselves the true meaning of their existence the mandala becomes an extraction of energies for them. They believe in the power of existence and impermanence.

Hence, based on my understanding, both perspectives do have different psychological meanings. But my purpose in bringing forth the meaning of the mandala is to support my fact that the Mandala can be a differentiating angle for anyone. For a layman, the repetition of symbols, and the compilation of geometric figures and patterns bring out the calming elements i.e., balance and symmetry. Just these elements, can improve our sense of thinking, and our understanding of our place in the universe, and it will build us spiritually. For the people interested in traditional arts and crafts, a religion’s culture has so much to offer. We can do our parts in exploring and incorporating such beautiful characters of different cultures.

Artistic Vibrancy

Roots Art Gallery, Dharamshala

Roots Art Gallery, Dharamshala

An artist providing space to the local artisans in Dharamshala and several others is Roots Art Gallery, lying beside the Norbulingka Institute. The owner-cum-artist of the store helps them gain recognition for their art, by displaying their pieces. She promotes hand-crafted jewelry, mandala paintings, macramé work, craft work, coasters, badges, hand-made t-shirts, and so many attractive collectibles. The small store filled with diverse artworks is a must-visit for unconventional people.

Posted in Local Culture

Bombay Fusion Palate | Story & Photos: Muskan Grover

Posted on

Can’t deny a saying from my cousin, “Delhi dil hai, toh Bombay meri Jaan”. You not only get to say this, but feel the junoon of Mumbai as well. The sea in Bombay acts as its fabric. From Portuguese and European dwellers forming the churchgate locale to Bollywood superstars catching moments, big industrialists to slum dwellers and tribes of fishermen, the city is full of stories from all walks of human existence.

Mumbai’s glimpse of creativity lies in its culture, art, theater, dance & music, all driven by the invincible spirit of Mumbaikars. When it comes to the food of Bombay Pav Bhaji, Vada Pav, Bhajias, Pani Puri, Sev Puri, Dahi Puri, Kala Khatta, just writing about these delicacies gave a mouth watering sense among the readers. But going beyond authentic turned out very well, especially in Mumbai, and that’s when we discovered some worth exploring cafes and restaurants of Bombay.

There is something very peaceful and welcoming about these eateries – that they are for everyone. Whether you are looking for a quiet corner to read a book alone or looking for a relaxing place to catch up with your friends, these places are the best to hang out. Not only do these delis offer a great range of coffees and impressive menus, but the ambience is so unusual that you’d want to spend hours there.

Starting our food journey with:

1. Banyan Tree Café - Set within the 10,000-sq.ft, an experimental architecture and art venue (Ice Factory Ballard Estate) space. The designers of the café have worked honestly on retaining the authenticity of the structure. The centerpiece of the courtyard is the ancient Banyan Tree. The ambience is rustic, raw with exposed brick walls and glass facades.

The cafe’s menu reads like a love letter to wholesome goodness. The café is known for its salads, each bowl is a canvas of colors and textures. From the crunch of fresh greens to the burst of flavor from vibrant toppings, every forkful is a journey through a garden of taste.

The smoothies are a blend of nutrient-rich ingredients with bursts of tropical fruits. The true stars of the show, however, are the sandwiches. Crafted with culinary finesse, these are a fusion of artisanal breads with an array of protein-rich fillings.

Here is what we had from their menu:

Pesto, Please! – Smoked chicken, Pesto Mayo, Jalapeno, processed cheese, cheddar, in a multigrain bread. The pesto mayo makes the sandwich a cheery on top.

Juice – The Melon-aire. Watermelon, Orange and Mint flavored.

Pesto Please Sandwich and complimentary fries, Picture credit-Zomato

Pesto Please Sandwich and complimentary fries, Picture credit-Zomato

Address - 7, 9, Calicut Rd, Ballard Estate, Fort, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400001

Timings - 8:00 am – 10:00 pm

 2. August Café - In the lanes of Andheri, is a café called August, serving Italian and Continental dishes, along with an in-house bakery. Dessert at August Café is a revelation. Cheesecakes are a study in indulgence, with textures that range from silky to crumbly and that’s what we were there for. Macarons and pastries are dissolved into sheer delight. August Café has much more to offer, starting from breakfast offerings like pancakes, avocado toasts, to lunch and dinner with Mediterranean platters.

Here is what we had from their menu:

Baked Cheesecake – Classic New York Style Vanilla Cheesecake

Baked Cheesecake blended with a hot Latte is a win-win.

New York style Vanilla Cheesecake

New York style Vanilla Cheesecake

Address -  Shop No 3 & 4, Sterling Apartment, Lokhandwala Complex-andheri West, Mumbai – 400053 (Sundervan , Off Link Road)

Timings - 9:00 am – 12:00 am

3. Oh Dough - Oh Dough, an Ice Cream Shop in the charming neighborhood of Kala Ghoda, offers combination of ice cream flavours with baked and hot cookies. The contrast of the cold, velvety ice cream and the gooey warm cookie dough is truly impressive. The ice cream flavours at Oh Dough are genuinely rich and creamy. Hence, the perfectly soft dough with a little crisp offers a delightful texture complementing the ice cream wonderfully.

Here is what we had from their menu:

A Lotus Biscoff Strawberry Ice Cream paired with Red Velvet Cookie, and

Smoked Vanilla Ice Cream paired with Smores Cookie

Smoked Vanilla Ice Cream paired with Smores Cookie

Smoked Vanilla Ice Cream paired with Smores Cookie

Address -  Hind Rajasthan Chambers,, 6, JA Allana Marg, Apollo Bandar, Fort, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400001

Timings - 1:00 pm – 11:30 pm

4. Pizza by the Bay - Pizza by the Bay is situated right by the bay, the restaurant offers panoramic views of the Arabian Sea. The outdoor seating gives a cold sea breeze dining experience. Pizza by the Bay specializes in pizzas and are known for thin crust, crispy edged and perfectly cooked aromatic pizzas. Beyond pizzas, they offer a variety of Italian and continental dishes. It’s an extremely cool place for breakfast. They have an altogether different breakfast section for the city dwellers.

Here is what we had from their breakfast menu:

A Veggie Cheese Melt – Broccoli, Bell Peppers, Chilli and Cheese baked on fresh Homemade Bread, sided with Cranberry Juice

Veggie Cheese Melt

Veggie Cheese Melt

Address - Soona Mahal, 143, Marine Dr, Churchgate, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400020

Timings - 7:00 am – 12:30 am

 5. Tanjore Tiffin Room - A charming and lively place to have lunch or dinner, Tanjore Tiffin Room is an upbeat place to wine and dine in the evening. The menu at Tanjore Tiffin Room is a treasure trove of South Indian classics. The best thing about the place is that they will introduce you to all the curries that they offer, on a glorious platter in mini bowls. Those curries have lip-smacking flavors, ranging from the sourest tamarind to rich coconut based curries. Once you finalize a curry, you get to decide your choice of protein from fish, prawns, chicken, mutton or veggies for your curry. Also, to work up your diet, there are veg and non veg appetizers.

Since we didn’t have any lunch, this order was meant to be big.

Here is what we had from their menu:

Veg Starters - Mushroom Pepper Fry (Mushrooms tossed in freshly ground pepper, coriander, and fennel powder), and a tinch of kadhi patta. It is Yumm!

Non Veg Starters - Karaikudi Fried Prawns (Crunchy batter fried prawns tossed with curry leaves and spices), served with a side dhaniya and pudina chutney.

Veg Main Course:

Mushroom with Veg Khorma Curry – Milk, thick curry in a ground coconut, cashew nut and ginger-garlic base, with chunks of Mushroom.

Non Veg Main Course:

Fiery Chettinad Chicken Curry – Thick onion and black pepper curry with freshly ground spices, with chunks of Chicken.

Breads – The fluffy Appam, and a Malabar Parotta.

Mocktail – Green Apple Lemonade

Tanjore Tiffin Room will actually explain, why South Indian non-vegetarian has this deep rooted and flavorful effect.

Tanjore Tiffin Room curry tasting palate

Tanjore Tiffin Room curry tasting palate, Picture credit-Zomato

Address - Jewel Mahal, Jewel Mahal Shopping Centre, Bungalow Rd, Ratan Kunj, Aram Nagar, Versova, Andheri West, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400058

Timings - 12:00 pm – 1:30 am

Ending with a sweet note, Hurrem’s Turkish Baklava Confectionary at the Jio World Drive Mall truly captures the essence of authentic Turkish flavors. Their signature sweet varying in flavors is the Baklava, thin crispy, and crunchy in every bite with a sweet balanced filling of honey and rich pistachios. It is a must visit for dessert enthusiasts.

Hurrem's flavoured Baklava, Picture credit-Hurremsbaklava

Hurrem’s flavored Baklava, Picture credit – Hurremsbaklava

 

Posted in Food

Jaipur Rugs Foundation, Indian Institute of Craft and Design and INTACH Hooghly Chapter wins British Council’s Crafting Futures India/UK Collaboration Scheme 2022 to develop and strengthen the crafts sector in India

Posted on

British Council New Logo (1)

  • A global programme which aims for a sustainable future through co-development and co-delivery of projects to support the crafts sector

  • Participating Indian and the UK organisations to benefit from opportunities for cross-cultural exchange and shared learning

 

New Delhi: British Council, the United Kingdom’s international organisation for educational opportunities and cultural relations, today announced another set of grant winners for its coveted global programme – Crafting Futures: India-UK Collaboration Scheme 2022. Under the program, the grants are jointly awarded to a partnership of two organisations – an organisation in India and a compatible UK organisation. Jaipur Rugs Foundation & University of Arts London, IICD and West Dean College of Arts and Conservation, University of Liverpool & INTACH Hooghly Chapter have been shortlisted.    

 

Crafting Futures supports collaboration to strengthen the creative and crafts sector in India through exciting and innovative projects which addresses inclusion across a range of communities, explore solutions for global environmental challenges and generate new propositions for the relationship between craft and technology.

 

Jonathan Kennedy, Director Arts India, British Council, said: “India has a vital arts and craft industry, and this is globally recognised, however, our recent research with Fashion Revolution confirms the Covid-19 pandemic has been particularly tough and remains challenging for livelihoods of crafts organisations, women artists and artisans. I’m delighted British Council has been able to continue our commitment to strengthening the Indian crafts sector, for improving livelihoods, and developing contemporary craft skills and traditions with a series of new UK partnerships. The abundant innovation and vibrancy in the projects this year will support social, cultural, and economic change with the India and UK craft collaborations. During what continues to be a tough time for craft artists and artisans worldwide, we are delighted to be able to extend new creative and economic opportunities for women and other crafts entrepreneurs in India.”

The first round of Crafting Futures India-UK scheme saw innovative and exciting projects – from vocational training of Pinguli Puppetry Artisans in Maharashtra; business skills training and empowerment of women artisans through sustainable processes in crafts working at Swami Sivananda Memorial Institute (SSMI); reviving and revitalising the urban ‘living’ crafts and develop opportunities for valuable collaborations by urban craftspeople and practitioners in Kolkata, Goa and Bangalore presenting their crafts work at the Unbox Festival; improving the livelihoods of highly skilled craftswomen in Gujarat through new product designs and use of modern marketing methods for the Indian and European market; collaboration to develop an international artists’ residency with 72 Muslim Potter families of Gundiyali in Gujarat for crafts tourism; and a collaboration to revive and strengthen the local economy around wool in the Kutch region reaching out to 100 women weavers.

As part of second round of Crafting Futures: India-UK Collaboration Scheme, applications were invited for project proposals from India and the UK organisations, out of which 3 more projects have been chosen which will benefit from monetary and technical support to collaborate with craft communities in India to co-develop and co-deliver projects that support the crafts sector.

All three awardees aim to have a significant impact on the craft sector whilst uplifting the artisans across various cities. The collaboration between Jaipur Rugs Foundation and University of Arts London will help rural women to learn new skills in craft to earn dignified incomes and gain financial independence irrespective of their formal education. The programme will address the pertinent skill gaps present in Indian artisan communities and help them expand their economic opportunities through design and entrepreneurship.

The partnership between IICD and West Dean College of Arts and Conservation focuses on the Potters of Baswa district in Jaipur through exchange of knowledge between India and UK ceramic practices whilst focusing on design and technology.

Lastly, the partnership between University of Liverpool and INTACH Hooghly Chapter will work with women artisans across Hooghly who are involved in the informal craft sector. With Patch-WORK, West Bengal and an app-enabled e-commerce network, the partners aim to train the artisans with new business skills and create products for the global market.

About the British Council:

The British Council is the UK’s international organisation for cultural relations and educational opportunities. We work with over 100 countries in the fields of arts and culture, English language, education and civil society. Last year we reached over 80 million people directly and 791 million people overall, including online, broadcasts and publications. We make a positive contribution to the countries we work with – changing lives by creating opportunities, building connections and engendering trust. Founded in 1934 we are a UK charity governed by Royal Charter and a UK public body. We receive a 15 per cent core funding grant from the UK government. britishcouncil.org

 

For more information about the British Council contact:

 

Shonali Ganguli | Head Marketing and Communications East and Northeast India | British High Commission | shonali.ganguli@in.britishcouncil.org | +91 983 656 9944

Akash Batra | akash.batra@archetype.co  | 999 978 6118

 

Posted in Travel & Deal On Wheels

VisitPortugal has appointed VFS Global as its India Trade and Marketing Agency

Posted on
  • VFS Global will assist VisitPortugal Office in New Delhi in building marketing and trade relations
  • Portugal becomes the fourth destination VFS Global represents in India

VFS Global has been nominated the new Trade and Marketing Agency for Turismo de Portugal, the official Tourism Board for Portugal, responsible for building destination awareness in the market, attracting more visitor footfall from India, and positioning Portugal as the leading destination for travellers across segments.

In its role, VFS Global will help establish a bigger media outreach for Turismo de Portugal, providing them the latest updates about the destination, and keeping the travel trade up to date on the most recent and relevant information on places, products, and experiences. Additionally, there will be a focus on building corporate and airline partnerships to establish Portugal as a preferred destination in the Indian market.

Picture2 (1)

“Since the opening of our Turismo de Portugal office in 2020, based in New Delhi, our aim is to work with the entire Indian market. This is a very strong commitment, and we have selected VFS Global as our local Travel Trade and PR Agency to help us with this thrilling and huge task, with two major objectives. First one is to increase awareness about Portugal as a tourist destination and the second one, of course, is to increase partnerships with different tour operators and travel agencies to increase their knowledge and expertise on Portugal and to create the best conditions for these potential partners to bring more business here from India,” said Claudia Matias, Director – India, Turismo de Portugal.

“Portugal is the ideal destination for Indian travellers across segments and budgets, with an array of offerings from traditional tourist activities such as night life and nature to bespoke experiences including destination weddings and large family getaways. From sandy beaches to lush vineyards, this Southern European country has a range of activities, attractions and experiences for Free and Independent Travellers (FITs), well-travelled and first-time Indian tourists. We look forward to promoting the wonders of Portugal to customers through our partners and media here in India,” said ArzanKhambatta, Head Tourism Services, VFS Global.

Picture 1 (1)

Travellers can lose themselves in the history of heritage sites such as the Monastery of Alcobaça&Batalha and the Convent of the Order of Christ in Tomar; indulge in experiences like the Douro River Cruise and explore Porto, an ancient city, whose historic centre has been classified as World Heritage; get the adrenaline flowing with equestrian and water sports, feel one with nature on the many hiking and cycling trails, star gazing nights, whale and dolphin watching excursions, and visits to Geopark Serra da Estrela and Berlenga Biosphere reserve, host MICE activities and groups in the many state-of-the-art, luxurious venues available, and so much more. Portugal is also an encounter with spirituality. The Portuguese Road to Santiago and the Paths of Fátima are increasingly sought out by those who like walking a purpose, focusing on knowledge, nature and culture. Portugal has something for everyone and for the foodies, the mastery of talented chefs has also raised Portuguese cooking to the heights of the best cuisines in the world.

One of the things that tourists notice most when they visit Portugal, is the hospitality and friendliness of the Portuguese, who are always ready to help if they are stopped on the street and asked for information. Perhaps it is the sun which gives us a good disposition, to welcome anyone, wherever they’re from. Portugal has 7 regions, which means that it has a lot to visit and discover. #YouCantSkipPortugal.

VFS Global, in its continuous endeavour to offer a holistic solution to its Client Governments, has set up full-fledged 360* Tourism Services function within the organisation. There have been numerous projects where VFS Global has worked with various Tourism Boards and Embassies across the world to promote the respective destinations. Currently, VFS Global has its presence across 140+ countries and has been associated with 12 tourism boards globally, providing them a wide range of sales and marketing solutions.

Posted in Connecting To The World

THE MAGIC OF HAMPI

Posted on

Md. Masarrath Ali Khan

We were little aware of the surprises in store for us when we decided to visitHampi last month. Our train chugged into Hosapete Junction at 5 am. and we boarded a bus to Hampi. Its window panes were wet with mist and allowed a hazy picture of the dark surroundings. When we opened the windows, cold breeze slapped our faces. After a 12km drive, we alighted at the Hampi Bus Station, sipped a tea at a small cart, and occupied our room (booked in advance) in Rashmitha Guest House.

Virupaksha TempleVirupaksha Temple

When we set out for sight-seeing at about 8 am, we saw manywomen selling garlands of jasmine flowers and bananas to pilgrims outside Virupaksha Temple. The temple elephant was taken out for a bath in the river and scores of children followed it.Women were selling breakfast (idli, dosaiand mirchi) in baskets outside Hampi Bazar. We tasted delicious idli and dosai. These small vendors serve these items with chutney and yes, withlots of love and affection!Hampi is a place where life remains simple and you can still experience the unalloyed joy of pleasant human relations!

Virupaksha Temple interiorsVirupaksha Temple Interiors

Located on the southern bank of the Tungabhadra River in Bellary district of Karnataka, Hampi has been an important pilgrimage centre since ancient times. Nature has been kind to this ancient city. With Granite boulders of varying tones of grey,ochre, and pink, spreading all over as hills and long ridges or as piles of rock, Hampi’s mythical landscape is simply a visual magic.It was the Imperial capital of Vijayanagara Kingdom from 1343 AD to 1565AD.It became a centre of architectural and sculptural excellence and some of the best and magnificent specimens of Dravidian temples were produced during the reign of Sri Krishnadevaraya. He beautified the entire city with a glittering series of monuments temples, palaces, pavilions, gateways, baths, tanks, and ancient bazaars.

Lotus MahalLotus Mahal

Our vehicle dropped us nearly a kilometer away from Vijaya Vithala Temple. We boarded a battery-run vehicle that took us to the main temple. This temple is the crowning glory of Hampi and represents the culmination of the Vijayanagara style of architecture.In front of the main temple is the famous stone chariot.The outermost pillars of its Maha-mandapa are called musical pillars. They emit the seven notes (Sa, Ri, Ga, Ma, Pa, Dha, and Ni) of the Indian classical music when gently struck. But these have been cordoned off and are out of bounds for t

Hazara  Rama Temple - sculpture
                                                                                                                    Hazara Rama Temple

We relished manyglasses of delicious buttermilk outside the temple, and then headed for the Queen’s Bath, a square building with a plain exterior and an ornate interior. It has a bath (pond) surrounded by decorated corridors and projecting balconies. We climbed theMahanavami Dibba; a huge stone platform built by Krishnadevaraya, and enjoyed panoramic views of the Pushkarini and surrounding ruins.

Hampi's mythical landscapeHampi’s Mythical Landscape

The next place on our itinerary was Hazara Rama Temple. In this temple, the long lines of carved reliefsshow scenes from the Ramayana, incidents like the birth of Rama, his exile into the forest, the abduction of Sita, the fight between Rama and Ravana, women playing drums, dancing with sticks and enjoying water sports; animals, soldiers and women, all marching towards seated kings.

Hampi's LandscapeHampi’s Landscape

A narrow gate admitted us into the Zenana Enclosure bounded by huge walls and the Lotus Mahal made a magical appearance. This two-storeyed structure is a blend of Indian and Islamic architectural styles. The king is said to have spent times with scholars in this palace.

sunset view from Hemakuta  HillSunset view from Hemakuta Hill

Our next stop was at Krishna Temple, built by Sri Krishnadevaraya in 1513 AD to commemorate his victory over Prataparudra Gajapati, the ruler of Orissa. During this battle, Sri Krishnadevaraya seized an image of the infant Krishna (holding butter in his right hand), brought it as a war trophy to Hampi and enshrined it in the Krishna Temple in 1515 AD, but the sanctum is now empty. That image of Krishna is now placed in the Government Museum in Chennai!

We witnessed a wonderful sunset from the sunset view point atop the Hemakuta Hill. As the sun went down, spreading a crimson glow, the real beauty of Hampi emerged in all its glory.

Sunset View Point atop Hemakuta HillSunset view point atop Hemakuta Hill

Our tour ended with a visit to Virupaksha Temple, one of the most famous, ancient and spacious shrines of Hampi. A 9-storeyed tower (known as Bistappa Gopura) forms the main entrance to this temple. We experienced perfect peace and tranquility at the shrine, as we went around taking pictures of some ancient beautiful paintings.  Hampi is a magic that never seems to end.

Temple elephant blesses the pilgrimsTemple’s Elephant blesses the Pilgrims

Small houses, guest houses, restaurants and fancy shops coexist in perfect harmony at Hampi Bazar. These streets also provide space to local children to play around and cows to roam freely.From textiles, toys and bags to traditional jewelrysets, handmade wall decors, trinkets, ancient coins and guidebooks…everything is sold here.  We left Hampi that night vowing to return soon for a more leisurely visit.

A small hotel in Hampi BazarA small hotel in Hampi Bazar

Local women sell banana  and flowers outside Virupaksha TempleLocal women sell Flowers and Banana outside Virupaksha Temple

Posted in History and Heritage

Treat your 5 senses @ Langkawi!

Posted on

Syeda Beenish

Things to remember:

❏     A duty-free island

❏     Can be reached by sea and air Delhi – KL – Langkawi

❏     Offers Beaches, Geo forest Parks, Rope cable, Underwater Wildlife, Museums, Bird Park, traffic-less roads.

❏     Always carry a water bottle as it’s humid and you will feel dehydrated often.

❏     No public transportation, only vehicle renting.

Pic 4

Is vacation with friends or family on the mind, Malaysia has all the flavors in store for you. Though pandemic has slowed down our spirits, but very soon we will be out of this situation, and would be ready to pack bags and hit the road. Just to share, it is truly one of the favorite destinations for Asians along with Singapore, Indonesia, and Australia amongst others on the list. Malaysia always means Petronas Towers and Genting and Cameroon Highlands. Let me share one of my trips to Malaysia where I explored one of its virgin islands Langkawi, also known as, the Jewel of Kedah.

Pic 2

I visited it around Christmas, and along with Langkawi, Kuala Lumpur was also a part of my itinerary. We used Malindo Airlines for our travel and also it was the cheapest. The staff at the airport was outstanding and helpful, and since I was traveling alone along with my 2-year-old daughter, one of the airport staff guided me to the metro bay and helped in boarding the metro to transfer from one terminal to another.

Pic 3

Due to time constraints, we missed visiting some pretty Malaysian fountains, scenic bridges of the area. Some private tour operators also helped arrange water sports like Snorkeling and a romantic dinner at the yacht. Though we could not taste it all, whatever we did was nothing less.

Pic 5a

 

Day 1

The driver who took us from the airport to the hotel. He suggested us to start our day with a boat ride in mangroves, which was considered the best activity to do in the morning.

The Kilim Karst Geoforest Park

Langkawi has three Geoparks, namely Machincang Cambrian Geoforest, Kilim Karst Geoforest, and Dayang Bunting Marble Geoforest. We visited, The Kilim Karst Geoforest Park. At the entrance, they usually click your family or group photograph which one can buy later at the time of leaving. We also did the same. This area is rich in wildlife with hairy nosed sea otters, and brown winged kingfishers. Our boat slowed for a minute as we were shown the King Kong Hill. My daughter loved the macaque monkeys playing on the sides while our steamer passed them. There was also a point where the Eagles were flying very low. We were asked to throw the food at them. Worth mentioning is the bat cave within the Geoforest Park. We even cited a snake outside the caves. The boat also stopped at a fishermen’s area where they had large fish compartments for us to feed and touch the fishes. People usually stop here to enjoy seafood that has a local Malay tast

Untitled-1
This boat tour lasted for around 3 hours, we bought our family picture at the exit and started heading towards the Oriental Village.

The Cable car and Langkawi Sky Bridge

The start off for the next big attraction – the cable car ride was located in the Oriental Village that was full of local restaurants and shopping arcades, including a 3-Dimensional art museum known as Art in Paradise. Almost at the end of the village were the ticket counters. The Langkawi Cable Car took the visitors up to the peak of Gunung Mat Chinchang, where the Langkawi Sky Bridge is located. The bridge stretched for an impressive 125 meters and was basically a long-pedestrianized bridge that offered amazing views of the surrounding countryside. At the end of the Cable car (last stop), was a coffee shop along with a small platform where people put locks to make a wish.

Langkawi Wildlife Park

Your trip to Langkawi is incomplete if you do not visit this wildlife park. Perfect for birds, and animal lovers, as it houses some 150 species of colorful birds, and feeding sessions are held throughout the day. This five-acre animal sanctuary also features a walk-in aviary with a 15-meter manmade waterfall and a duty-free retail outlet. Within the complex were several retail outlets, including a duty-free zone, a souvenir kiosk, and a crystal store. For the first time in my life, I saw a Peacock dance showing off its beautiful feathers wide open.

Pic1

Day 2

The Langkawi Underwater World

The day began with Malaysia’s largest aquarium, spread across nearly six acres. Housing 1000 plus different species of marine and freshwater fish. The complex is divided into three sections: Tropical Rainforest, Temperate, and Sub-Antarctic. There were regular shows of Penguin feeding and a performance rich American fur seal show. Lastly, there was a giant walk-through, which was a six million liter underwater tunnel tank that housed an extensive number of fish including sharks, giant stingrays, and green turtles.

Eagle Square

Next in our itinerary was one of the most iconic spots of Langkawi, Eagle Square. As the name suggests, It was a huge statue of an eagle about to take flight. Also called Dataran Lang in Malay. The eagle stands at a height of 12 meters approx. The square is located in Kuah which is the main town of the island. Along with some souvenir shops, you will find very neat and hygienic home-made food being sold in packets by the families stacked in their cars.

At our driver’s suggestion, we went to watch Sunset at Chenang Beach (Pantai Cenang). Known both for sunrise and sunset, we were lucky to enjoy the sunset. I wish I could pause the time and breathe in the moment and the cool breeze for longer. 

We had bought many mementos like Eagle from Eagle Square, magnets and keyrings from Oriental Village, and Langkawi wildlife park for my family members and close friends. To keep the memories fresh forever, we tried to capture the island in our cameras. Four days passed at the wink of an eye. Wish I could stay more as there was so much more to feel and taste. But KL was calling me and I now wanted to taste the hustle-bustle of a cosmopolitan Christmas celebration. Today, when my travel deprived daughter (thanks to Covid19) on seeing the pics says, “Mumma ye animals dekhna hai!” I reply, “Yes” hoping this Pandemic disappears and traveling begins soon.

Pic 7Mesmerising Peacock dance at the Wildlife Park

Pic 8Kids enjoying site of various colorful fishes.

Pic 9For Pingu Cartoon lovers, seeing Penguins in real was worth the visit.

 

Posted in The Traveller

Coming Back to the Roots: Post Lockdown times – Mussorie

Posted on

Shivangi Naithani Devrani

Amidst all the chaos, decided to leave the city behind and head to Dehradun, a 250 km journey with fear in mind of the Covid it was the month of September 2020, but as I noticed the world is coping up with the new normal, masks, sanitizer and the social distancing to help survive the situation. This time it’s the corona time, though that didn’t stop me from travelling, my grandparents live in Dehradun had a plan to stay and enjoy the blissed weather and nature of our very own dun valley.  An escapade near Dehradun, to the Queen of Hills called Mussorie, in midst of the Uttarakhand ‘Devbhoomi’.An easily accessible, affordable and what we describe as a couple’s paradise. As I hail from the very place, though being a Garhwali I always keep coming to the roots, I make sure I visit my native state of Uttarakhand once or twice a year.

To be so near and not visit the place would be injustice to me and to Queen of Hills herself. Mussorie the hill station – heard, seen and even visited the place before. But I was like do I ‘KNOW’ the place, what it holds and instils , most important as a hill station what does it offer. I am familiar with the culture and cuisine since childhood, perks of being a Garhwali. This was a post lockdown Vacay, left the home after a 7 months long gap, felt the jitter and nervousness. Mall road is what essentially adds the exuberance to the Town, being one the oldest road built by Britishers. The road straight ahead cuts through the Heart of the town, bustling with people, shops, restaurant, street vendors and on road small games centre – it provides us all.

Untitled-1
The Mall Road, Mussorie

We planned to stay in the property of Club Mahindra, which is situated on the Gun Hill. I was taken aback with arrangements they had supplied in Covid era – on the entrance before heading towards the reception shoes sanitizing UV machine, our luggage was automatically sent to our room after a thorough sanitization, every employee wore masks and at every point sanitizers were provided. The view was serene from our room;our eyes were blessed to gaze upon the majestic hills- what I so longed for!!

 Untitled-2

View from the Balcony of Club Mahindra, Mussorie

In evening we stepped down, locals assure us to watch the lustrous sunset on the camel back road. We trekked the path, ‘Quiet and Peaceful’ it felt as divergent from the hustle-bustle of the Mall road. After walking some steps further, we reached the mid-point, having some benches and a shed for on goers to enjoy the blissful hills. A well lay out, neat and clean small shoprun by elderly couple, they had an innocent smile on seeing us approach their way. Nevertheless, they kept the minimum but the best – Maggi,Momo’s, kadak chai, and basic provisions to present. In weather so amiable with tranquil vibe, we sat for a while before we made our way back to the resort. Our evening was blessed by Momo’s and Chai; we paid our gratitude and headed back.

 

20201006_175443 (1)
Momo’s point on Camel Back Road

 20201006_175215 Camel Back Road

Mall road is overflowed with location to eat catering for all pockets, taste and people – out ofwhich i had a chance to dine and relish few meals. Of which Raj Kamal Restaurant is one of the historic places of Mussorie, offering services since 1956 with same love and dedication. Though renovated but kept the antique yet modern spirit alive in it, food matched the whole character and quality of the restaurant.

Screenshot_4

Interior of the Raj Kamal RestaurantRaj Kamal historic Restaurant since 1956

 

A hidden gem you may find a few steps down on Mall Road, Café Teatotaler is perfect tiny place to spend time with your family. The café serves variety from Mexican, Italian, Mediterranean, fried snacks, hot & cold beverages and some sumptuous deserts. Café in a well-lit location, while enjoying a meal you are kissed by sun through the glass panels on the top & open on three sides with picturesque view.

20201006_175014
Untitled-3

Café Teatotaler on Mall Road

Mahesh Kumar – the Owner of this small humble shop with his Special Amritsari choley kulcha and Special Bombay Pav Bhaji. It reminds you of the desi-tadka, which one craves to have – street style choley kulcha and Pav Bhaji offered in the most hygienic yet tasteful way. Though his business was affected due to Covid issue, although situation has improved with unlock down. People again have instilled their faith in traveling,he hopes to catch up soon for the losses for last 6 months, he in business for last 10 years, he is native to Mussorie.

The name says it all, ‘Chick chocolate’ – the café, has the jazz and panache to it. It even has a story to say, run by 3rd generation he said the name is of a famous Jazz artist who used visit Mussorie in 1940s and 1950s.During that period, Jazz was quiet the appeal for the people. It was established in the year 1940, offering the most authentic wooden-fried pizza, and but well famous for their handmade mouthful chocolates and pastries. The ambience friendly, vibrant and cheerful – it adds to your dining experience.

Untitled-4

Untitled-5

 

Interior of the Chick Chocolate – the café

20201006_175102

View from the Gun Hill top

We can never perceive it all; but one should try to transcend the most one can behold. These are few anecdotes that I share for anyone planning for post lockdown Vacay.  These are challenging time, but our life is in our hand – take your precautions and follow the rules. I feel the world cannot stop, life and time goes on –rather it’s us who needs to cope up with the changing scenario. I encourage you to travel, experience the post Covid Vacay, I offered just a glimpse through it, with my parting words to you are ……….

“Travel to see better,

Dream to feel better

And

Listen to know better”

 

Posted in The Traveller

Stroll through Kochi Muziris Biennale

Posted on

By Aadya Baoni

KB 2018-19 - CopyThe backwaters of Kerala, coupled with a frothing cup of filter coffee greeting you with its pungent yet comforting aroma lulled the broken heart into sleeping well. A heavy curtain of humidity hangs over the city threatening to drench an individual without any discrimination. The streets are flooded with intellectuals armed with their little red books (Communist Manifesto) and a pleasant smile that permanently seemed to be painted on their faces.
KB 2018-19 2 - Copy

As one treads foot into Fort Kochi and the adjacent streets of Mattancherry, there exists the artists’ fiery palette of ochre and red. Every object that a brush could touch its tip on is covered with bold strokes from walls to tyres of the cars.  This is largely owing to Kochi Muziris Biennale spread over multiple venues. You will be charged a humble fee of Rs 100 that allows you to explore the festival for 3 says. However, a spin wall house acts as the primary collection of the installations and art pieces. One is flooded with all forms of creativity being served to you on a platter to feast your eyes on.  But you must keep a respectful distance from these works of art irrespective of how tempted you may be to touch them. The ideology of Freedom of expression is seen to be personified by various artistic practices displayed.

KB 2018-19 3 - Copy

After three hours of religiously consuming art I found myself strolling through the streets of Kochi, responding to my gastric juices begging for food. I stumbled into ‘Kashi Art Cafe’ which too had a collaboration with the Biennale and had massive displays of art. Going into the depths of the cafe I found myself cocooned in a welcoming environment with nooks and crannies.  The food does justice to the amount of money charged for it.

KB 2018-19 5

The venues of the Biennale enhanced the art installations and art works to create a holistic experience. This extended through the streets of Mattancherry.

KB 2018-19 6

The rustic streets interspersed with huge wooden structures displaying the students’ art biennale. Multiple hues of color remained a constant treat for the eye. Antiquities and Kerala Folk Art was sold generously throughout.   The Paradesi Synagogue and its stained glass windows simply adds to the experience.

KB 2018-19

I walked away from my art excursion with a sense of fulfilment.

A sense of brotherhood resides in the crevices of Kochi. ‘Chetta’ or brother and ‘Chechi’ or sister is all one could possibly need to win over and communicate in Malayalam effectively.

Posted in Photo Essay

Bishnupur: An Expression of Bengalscape

Posted on

Urmila Banu

The millennial architecture of the quaint town Bishnupur, an ethno-archeological place has many unfolded stratums of various narrative delineations; a justification to the theory of time – from the bygone medieval history to the clandestine engraved within the ruins.

Untitled-1
Figure 1 (Source: Research Paper & Edited): Veranda opened by three ornamented arches, ShyamRai Temple, Bishnupur (photo credit - Source: traveltear.com)

A hamlet, beholding its legacy of rich cultural infusions through art and architecturesince the pre-colonial era, located on the south of the river Dhalkisor, embraced by meadows of golden paddy, amidst the periphery of low hillscape and lagoons, situated in the western part of West Bengal, a historical and archeological place – Bishnupur, geographically, forms part of the eastern perimeter of the Chotanagpur plateau and also, expands in the west to the lower Gangetic delta. The place and its adjacent region are impregnated by its indigenous cultural aesthetics and opulence, often considered as an epitome of ‘cultural hybridity’, rooted in unfathomable cultural derivation of Bengal.

The cultural landscape of Bishnupur, a part of Rarh Bengal is ranging from handloom and cottage industries (Baluchari, Tasar etc.) to Conch shell carvings, Bell metal, Patachitra and so on, however, the iconic verse of the place, mostly lies within its terracotta sculptures and relics, the outcome of permutation-combination of tangible natural resources (locally obtainable laterite soil) and intangible resources (socio-religious belief system, influences of political and economical structure etc). The small town of Bankura district widely acknowledged as ‘the town of temples’; the architecture of the temples has evidenced the historical proscenia of cultural amalgamation, untold narrations of the patronage of Bengal in the field of art and culture. The significance of Bishnupurlies within its long historical roots since c. 695 CE; it was a part of Mallabhum (comprised the entire Bankura district and extensive regions of Midnapur and Burdwan districts).

“The history of Bankura, so far as it is known, prior to the period of British rule, is identical with the history ofthe rise and fall of the Rajas of Bishnupur, said to be one ofthe oldest dynasties in Bengal.” (O’Malley, 1908)

‘… When Rajas of Bishnupur were powerful in western Bengal and had assumed Hindu civilization, and were anxious therefore to make out a respectable royal descent for themselves. … the fact that the Rajas of Bishnupur called themselves Mallas (an aboriginal title) for many centuries before they assumed the Kshatriya title of Singh, the fact that down to the present day they are known as Bagdi Rajas all over Bengal, as well as numerous local facts and circumstances – all go to prove that the Rajas of Bishnupur are kshatriyas, because of their long independence and their past history, but not by descent…….the country over which these Rajas ruled is called Mallabhum, a term now used for the tract of country comprised in the thanas of Bankura (excluding the Chhattna outpost), Onda, Bishnupur, Kotulpur and Indas. Originally, however, the term was applied to a more extensive tract of country. To the north it is believed to have stretched as far as the modem Damin-i-koh in the Santal Parganas; to the south it comprised part of Midnapore, and to the east part of Burdwan; and inscriptions found at Panchet in the Manbhum district show that on the west it included part of Chota Nagpur…….the term Mallabhum is said to mean the land of i wrestlers, and is explained by the legend that the first Raja received the title of AdiMalla from his skill of wrestling”. (O’Malley, 1995)

The throne of Mallabhum had witnessed the rules of several kings and had experienced diverse socio-political changes that contoured the augmented cultural history of the place since its medieval Bengal. The most noteworthy expansion of art and culture in the region was ensued during Malla dynasty. Bishnupur was the capital of Malla kings (the local chieftain); it burgeoned as a monumental expression of terracotta art during the 16th and 17th century. During this time period, Bengal had experienced a reflective and philosophical political, social, cultural and religious revolution that upraised a distinctive culture all over Bengal; Bishnupur was not excluded indeed.

Image 2

Figure 2: Brittle Temple, Bishnupur (photo credit - Source: Late Mediaval Temples of Bengal, Origin and Classification, by Devid, Mc.C)

The architecture of Bishnupur temples has profound influences of Orissa, Mughal and South Indian structural designs and patterns; rationale lies within its direct and indirect connection to theseparts of India since ancient time. Tracing back to Bishnupur’s ancient history, mentioned in the books of Cunningham (Cunningham, 1871), cartographically, the Ancient Commercial route to Kalingawent through Kanksa – Sonamukhi – Abantika – Bishnupur – Dandabhukti(Ghosh,1976); the route had evidenced the cultural diffusion from north to south India. Besides, the place is situated on the thoroughfare to Puri, Orissa and often a place for sojourn; hence, the specific location of Bishnupur might be one of the most significant catalysts in the process of cultural infusion. Furthermore, along with geographical root, it has socio-political influence as well to the cultural integration. Founded by AdiMalla (Raghunath), known as ‘Bagdi Raja ‘to the locals, the Malla dynasty was profoundly remarkable for its aesthetics of art and culture. Unlike other rulers of that time, Malla kings had a tenet to rule being secluded from the outside forces, without having political affairs with other territory. However, during the reign of DhariMalla, Mallabhum had been incorporated in the Mughal terrain; the integration had given birth to a new age of affluent socio-cultural brilliance that took its enthralled form under the patronage of BirHambir, son of DhariMalla. His court was enriched by the footprints of acclaimed artists, musicians, scholars.

Image 3
Figure 3 (Source: Sahapedia & Edited): Outer circumambulatory, Rasa Mancha, Bishnupur (photo credits - Source: Sahapedia)

Apart from terracotta (baked earth), stones were also tangible resources of some temple construction, the most fascinating about Bishnupur temples. The architecture of the temples has a deep narrative history of cross-culture and cultural hybridity. The Kalinga School of temple architecture is found in the structures of various terracottatemples, built in the early stage, memento of 10th -11th century. A few temple architectures have a lineage to the Pira temple style of Odisha, like Kiosk (A light open pavilion), Ratna (Pinnacle) style (Mc.Cutchion, 1964&Santra, 1998). Later on, the structure and ornamentation of the temples were influenced by Islamic architecture after the rising correlation with Mughal. Khilan (Pillar), Volt, Trikhilan doors (Piers and pillar).

Image 4 Madan_Mohan_Temple

(photo credit - Source: commons.wikimedia.org)

Beside, Indo-Islamic, Indo-Persian, Buddhist and Classical Hindu architecture, the influence of Portuguese architecture is distinguished as well. Hence, the cultural assimilation is in the core of Bishnupur terracotta temples. Later on, after the conversion of Malla kings into GaudiyaVaishanavism, the profound impact of the cult was highly become visible.  Structurally, Hut style (Chala) and Rekha style, also known as Nagara style in Indian aesthetics are the two fundamental architectural patterns in terracotta temples.  The Rekha deul or temples are slender, taller, and curvilinear, built on a square platform, an amalakasila or kalasa on the top of the structure, influenced by Gothic architectural design. The hut or chala temples have resemblance with the thatched roof.  The arched entrance with intricate carved terracotta panels engraving geometric and floral patternsare the key exponents of Islamic architecture, especially visualizes in the Sultanate architecture of Bengal.

Image 6 Central Arch Stucco of Madan Mohan Temple

Figure 4 (Source: Research Paper): Arch in Madan Mohan Temple    (photo credit – Source: commons.wikimedia.org)

Image 5 Eklakhi Tomb

Figure 5 (Source: Research Paper): Eklakhi Tomb -  (photo credit – Source: Role of Culture in the Process of Resource Creation: A Case Study on Temple Town Bishnupur, Journal of Social Review)

Indo-Islamic style of temple has mostly two major superstructures, Ratna (temple structure on roof top) and domed form.Temples with porch, under one roof are driven its influence from Odishan temple architecture. During the 18th and 19th centuries, being influenced by Vaishnavism ‘Rasa mancha’ had become common,a composite form of ‘Ratna’ and ‘Rekha’ style. Structurally, it is octagonal, built on the high platform; the towers are embellished by naba-ratna (nine pinnacles)or pancha-ratna (five pinnacles) with rekha turrets.

The Terracotta Temples of Bengal are recognized ‘as one of the most original and unique expressions of decorative temple art in the latemedieval period of Bengal’ (S.Haldar & M. Haldar, 2011). Along with figurative sculptures of deities, flora and fauna and human various erotic postures floral designs are also the part of ornamentation, resemble to arabesque designs of Islamic architecture. In Madan Mohan Temple, arabesque designs, covering the corner elements of terracotta panels have a similarity to the design found on the Eklakhi Tomb. Besides, lotus motif terracotta reliefs works at the entrance of the Garbhagriha of the temples has a lineage to the lotus medallion, often used in the mihrabs of Islamic architecture.

Image 6 Central Arch Stucco of Madan Mohan Temple

Central Arch Stucco of Madan Mohan Temple (photo credit – Source: chinmaye.com)

The influence of Vaishnavism was also found in the theme of terracotta sculpture, directly derived its affluence from Patachitra painting of Bankura region, centering on this cult. Narrative depictions of Srimad Bhagbat Gita, Gitagovinda, various stories of Krishna are featured in Shyamrai temple, Jorbanglo temple. The episode of Kaliya Daman (Lord Krishna killing a snake named Kaliya), Jalakeli (Lord Krishna playing with the mates of Radha in a pool), Noukalila (Lord Krishna in a boat with friends of Radha) were sculpted on some of the temples, rendering its influence from Vaishnav culture. With the increasing assimilation of Indian culture with Portuguese culture, the artisans of Bishnupur temples incorporated the blend in their works, such as Dagon with a guitar and Portuguese war ship etc.

The terracotta temples of Bishnupur are not only an epitome of religious pictogram, rather a quintessential part of socio-cultural expression of ‘Bengalscape’, within the roots of cultural integration, a symbol of culmination of myriad influential components; a new vocabulary of architectural embellishment, still exists as vernacular architecture of Bengal.

 

 

References

Dasgupta, C., (1980) BishnupurerMandir Terracotta, Kolkata, S.M.Prakasan

Devid, Mc.C. (1971) Style of Bengal Temple Terracotta: A Preliminary Analysis of South Asian Archaeology, ed. N Aamoud: London, 205-278

Devid, Mc.C. (1972) Late Medieval Temples of Bengal, Origin and Classification, The Asiatic Society Monograph Series, Vol: XX, Kolkata

Chatterjee, Das, N. (2014) Role of Culture in the Process of Resource Creation: A Case Study on Temple Town Bishnupur, Journal of Social Review Volume 3 (1) December 2014 Department of Social Sciences

Michell, G. (2009), ‘Iconography’, Brick Temples of Bengal,p. 139. 15 Mohammed Yamin, Impact of Islam on Odishan Culture, New Delhi, p. 249

Biswas and Haque, Terracotta Temples of Bengal, p. 12

O’ Malley, L.S.S. (1995): Bengal District Gazetteer, Bankura (1908), Government of West Bengal, Calcutta

O’ Malley, L.S.S. (1997): Murshidabad, Bengal District Gazetteers, Government ofWest Bengal, Calcutta

 

 

Posted in History and Heritage

PUSHKAR CAMEL FAIR

Posted on

Md. Masarrath Ali Khan

013 Pushkar - Sadhus singing bhajans - Photo Masarrath
Those are the early hours of a breezy morning and there is a thick fog all around. Armed with cameras, many tourists are silently marching towards the camel grounds. The caravans of camels have majestically ambled their way through the golden sands and converged at the sand dunes.  Their owners – dressed in soiled white attire, capped by bright colorful turbans and sporting big moustache – squat in circles sharing stories and warming over small orange bonfires, while the moon and the stars create a canopy of heavenly illumination above them.

014 Rajasthani Fair - Common sight during the fair 3 - Photo Masarrath

As the morning sun of Prabodhini Ekadashi dusts the sands with gold and thin layers of mist peel away, the landscape undergoes a time warp. Some traders light up a small fire in sand and make tea from camel’s milk in brass vessels, while their womenfolk take the camels to the water tank. The camel-pulled carts surmounted with red, pink and green canopies start moving in a file to the town to fetch tourists for the day.

015 Pushkar - Classical Dance at Old Rangji Temple  during Camel Fair - Photo Masarrath

Far away, two hot air balloons rise in the air, drift over and disappear from sight.  The aroma of fresh roses, the fragrance of incense sticks and the mellifluous sounds of temple bells – all seem to weave magic. You are transported into a different world.

DSC_0469 Camel traders

This is Pushkar Camel Fair that draws huge crowds of tourists from all parts of the world. It has a magnetism of its own that defies description. It is like travelling back a hundred years in time. Though camels are an integral part of the celebrations, the fair is more about the joys of self discovery, rejuvenation and revelling in the small pleasures of life.  You get to see innocent beautiful and radiant smiling faces, all diffused in a romantic burst of colours. Brightly turbaned men with impressive moustaches and womenfolk in vibrantly coloured lehengas and odhnis lend a majestic air to the fair. Village girls in intricately embroidered, swirling skirts, can be seen pulling the ghunghat (veil) spontaneously over their faces at the first sight of a stranger!

DSC_1802_Young girls

The fair is a rich blend of trading, commercial activities, social gatherings, fun and frolic, music, songs, folk dances, play and amusement, cultural performances, religious rituals and pilgrimage to the temples, all distinct yet thinly overlapping over each other in perfect symphony!

DSC_5716_Camel traders prepare food

It all starts 3-4 days after Diwali, with the camel traders arriving and setting up camps at the sand dunes. Lively trading of camels takes place. During the next couple of days, livestock and their traders continue to flock into Pushkar as the sand dunes get overcrowded with animals.

DSC_5794 Traders warming over fire (1)

Matka race, turban tying competition, acrobat shows, tight rope balancing acts by young girls, snake and mongoose fights, draw huge crowds in the morning hours at the fair ground.

Pushkar is one place where man-animal relationship acquires a new meaning. The camels are lovingly sheared, scrubbed, washed and perfumed. Symbolic hair motifs called moondra are carved onto the fur. Tattoos are stamped on their sheared skins using black henna and heated ladles. Then they are bedecked in their best finery, silver bells and silver jewellery for the beauty contest! Tourists also enjoy the camel dance competition to their heart’s content.

DSC_6199_Musical night by Navraj Hans in fairground

The huge area around the fairground transforms into a shopper’s paradise. Traders set up stalls selling virtually everything….. Odhnis, ghagras, leharia fabrics, embroidered shawls, clothes embedded with mirrors, lovely colourful bangles…. the list is endless! And if tourists enjoy going on a shopping spree, can the camels be far behind? There are a series of shops which sell items ranging from saddle straps, saddles, beads, strings and cowries exclusively for decorating the camels!

Colorfully dressed pilgrims, sadhus and saints begin to gather in the many temples and ghats all around and the town gets drenched in a religious flavour.  Just as Brahma performed yagna at the Pushkar Lake from Kartik Shukla Ekadashi to Kartik Purnima, so also millions of pilgrims perform a Kartik Snan in the lake during this period, mainly on the full moon night.  Then they pay a visit to the Brahma Temple. The festival comes to an end after the Kartik Purnima.

—————————————————————————————————-

Legend and history

Lord Brahma slew a cruel demon Vajranabha with his weapon – the lotus flower, which fell and struck the earth at three places within a radius of 9 kms, creating three lakes. Brahma named the place Pushkar (=lotus), and the lakes, Jyeshtha (elder), Madhya (central) and Kanishtha (younger) Pushkar. Then Brahma performed yagna at the Pushkar Sarovar from Kartik Shukla Ekadashi to Kartik Purnima. So, an annual festival is celebrated in honour of Brahma. This coincides with the camel fair.

Legend apart, the antiquity of Pushkar and its environs goes back several millennia. The great Hindu epics Mahabharata and Ramayana call it the Adi Tirtha (King of pilgrimages).The Vedas and Puranas, record that Rishi Vyas undertook penance at Pushkar and Shri Balram visited Pushkar more than 5000 years ago. The Harivansha Purana says that Lord Krishna spent some time here. The Ramayana mentions that the sage Vishwamitra performed penance (tapa) here and the celestial enchantress Menaka came to bathe in its serene waters. Kalidasa immortalized Pushkar in his classic Abhijñâna Sâkuntalam. Historical works like Prithviraj Vijay (by Jayanaka); Hammir Mahakavya (by Nayachandra Suri), and Surjan Charitra (by Chandrashekhara), suggest that an ancestor of the Chauhan dynasty Rishiraj Shri Chahaman, was born in Pushkar. The Chauhan queen Rudrani, also known as Atma Prabha used to light 1000 lamps daily before the Shivalinga at Pushkar. One of the first contacts between the Mughal and the British took place in

Pushkar when Sir Thomas Roe met Emperor Jahangir in 1616 AD.

The Pushkar Sarovar (lake)

There are 52 holy ghats (lakefronts) around the holy Sarovar. It is believed that the Nag Kund cures infertility, the Roop Tirth Kund enhances beauty, and the water of Kapil Vyapi Kund cures leprosy while a dip in the Mrikand Muni Kund grants the boon of wisdom!  Brahma Temple is the star attraction of Pushkar.

 

Posted in Celebrating India