Travel and Deal

A Reservoir full of Dam(n) Pleasure

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H.A. Anil Kumar through his article calls for everyone’s attention to Manchanabele Dam and serene scenic beauty of its backwaters.

Manchanabele dam or reservoir or however you address it, is located just thirty kilometers away from Bengaluru. This distance-measure is to be done in terms of time and not distance, owing to an everlasting stampede called traffic, specific to this city. I am not describing the way you go there, but the pleasure of Manchanabele dam includes the ritual of going through a black hole called Bengaluru-traffic. Each case of congestion on the road, in the mind and mood clears up once you are there wherein the earth and sky get disconnected at the horizon line, as if viewed through a convex lens.

Perhaps for the same reason, this dam, which is now damned, is damn mindboggling. On Sundays when there is no traffic, all those enthusiast-aspirants eligible to visit Manchanabele are deep asleep at home and this reservoir stands alone, solitary, while being captured by the costliest lenses by those IT employees-turned-Sunday photographers, who know how to earn and spend, but do not know why they bought such a costly lens in the first place. A simple 3.1 megapixel mobile is sufficient to upload the dam’s picture on Facebook, you don’t need to buy a whole pig while a sausage packet would suffice (obviously I borrowed this phrase from somewhere where this phrase was burrowed; and by and large it is from a source similar to ‘Aunty Acid’).

Dead opposite to Nandi Hills, which is to the north of Bengaluru, Manchanabele dam is at a spot wherein one has to drive down after driving up for a while, as it happens with Ajanta caves – and as you drive away from it, all of it gets hidden at once! The ‘U’ shaped river dries out at the opening of ‘U’, further leading to a mini-mountain upon which is a military training center! The gap between the gap in U and the military-mountain is the actual picnic spot, which in fact is a dried part of the river.

On Sundays there are two kinds of people shooting at Manchanabele:  The military training guns practicing; and the IT-costly-lensed-cameras-comradely-sausages shooting with their cameras, for the sole purpose of updating their fb accounts. When the tide is low, when the opening is dry, local farmers catch fish from the left over water which is plenty, cook then and there and feed you at a cost, rather reasonable one. Their culinary and sales skills have evolved to such an extent that they can even sell tiny fishes to vegetarians saying that those fishes have been challenged-size wise because they are pure vegetarians!

The view from there, the opening of U is picturesque, to say the least. Facing towards the ‘dam’-at-a-distance, towards North (often the word is articulated into ‘dame’, based on who is watching whom in a given situation of various groups who have arrived for picnic), with a rock-solid-military support to the back, the still water surrounded by hills to 270 degrees around that could recall Pokhran lake of Nepal – i.e. only if your imagination is as deep as the still water.

“At least one person has died every month from past ten years sir, trying to swim in this dam, sir”, the farmers-playing-fishermen-&-cook would inform, intending to add masala and spice to the fried fish at hand. He would not recurrently realize the adverse effect his comments have on those eating, who had planned to jump into water, immediately after consuming the fish. A woman always comes from nowhere, on a small theppa (rowing circular boat made of bamboo, found even in places like Hampi) and interestingly, it seems, even those who would borrow it for a ride in the water would often vanish off into thin water (air!) and the theppa would come back on its own, after a while. Hence nobody would dare to borrow it; but I thought what an ingenious method to avoid people borrowing her only possible vehicle that could open up the various facets of the dam to the hungry sight!

Manchanabele dam has the regionally famous Shivagange Mountains, of Hoysala fame, in its background. Imagine this mountain to be like the numerical ‘7’-like mountain and its vertical side to be 200 feet tall. Somewhere half way through, a small bell is being fixed along the reverse-slope. Nothing else exists around it to give us evidence or back-support to imagine as to how someone could fix a bell at that point! Vishnuvardhana’s Queen Shanthala of Hoysala dynasty committed suicide from this spot so as to make the king come closer to the second queen. Manchanabele that can be seen from the top of Shivagange acts second to this mountain, as a tourist site.

Dam(n), why do people not visit Manchanabele dam reservoir, despite being so close, so surrounded by nature which doesn’t exist even in the imagination of Bangaloreans? Often one finds all that a beautiful lake view consists of — the magnificence of the huge walls of the dam and absence of the threat of the gates being suddenly opened, in order to wash away the people. The water is transparent since it is still, inviting but also threatening, a few degrees colder temperature. The free floating objects at the edge of the water reservoir tell the stories of the urban-specific pleasures that people just found and shared in the premise of Manchanabele dam – plastics of both public and private types! Even private vehicles like cars and bikes get parked in the midst of the dam water, the military mountain and the surrounding enclave. The scattered houses, while driving along the basement of the dam seem as contemporary as prehistoric caves. These friendly and poor farmers live in the most air conditioned surrounding, for which those in the city just nearby pay heftily.

I had earlier mentioned that this dam is made up of what is availed on either side of it –Shivaganga to the north and the age old Big Banyan tree. Resultant of the British botanists — the big banyan tree is only the second biggest in Asia or Indian continent and hence India! You can appreciate it better if it’s introduced in a more familiar way: it’s the tree from ‘Eh dosathi, hum agar chodenge’ song from ‘Sholay’ film. This is the best reference point to the tree since the film which ran for twenty five years made popular the three hundred and odd years old tree.

Manchanabele dam is a pleasure to visit, provided you link up visits to Shivaganga and Big Banyan tree. Once you are there, nobody knows what to do, since most visitors are from the city don’t know what to do amidst nature, unlike their familiarity with four walls – malls, shopping centers and the like. Not many go there, but it contains the wilderness that true nature possess, thrills that mortal beings undergo, settings that are ancient, views that are watercolor in shade and a time that can be frozen!

Posted in Travel & Deal On Wheels

“A Glimpse of Madhugiri”

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Venkatesh K N traces Madhugiri hill’s history and facts as he explores the second largest monolith in Asia.

Madhugiri is taluk head quarters in Tumkur district of Karnataka. Its history can be traced back to prestone age. Travelling to Madhugiri from Bangalore, Tumkur and back is an everyday excess for people of Madhugiri. Travelling to Madhugiri from Bangalore and wandering in its locales becomes the most meaningful experience for oneself. In 1790’s there happened a journey between Doddamalur near Madhugiri of Mahanadu Prabhus, Tippu Sultan to Sri Rangapattana, by British’s army from Bangalore to Sri Rangapattana.

Channappa Gowda had ascended throne of Madhugiri for about nine months, by that time he had become the reason for Tippu’s anger. Channabassappa Gowda had supported the kings of Ratnagiri in a conspiracy against Tippu Sultan, so Tippu camped his army in Doddamalur about seven to eight kilometers from Tereyoor after conquering Midigeshi and Tereyoor from Channappa Gowda. There was a reason for Tippu to camp in Doddamalur. He was informed that Channappa Gowda had pleaded Britishers to get back his forefathers despotic rights and kingdom. In reply Channappa Gowda was assured positively by Lord Corn Wallis. Lord Corn Wallis moved his army via Bangalore towards Sri Rangapattana to attack it. Tippu waited for British in Doddamalur. But unfortunately Lord Corn Wallis was marching towards Sri Rangapattana. Immediately learning this conspiracy against him Tippu took his army back to the capital Sri Rangapattana. In this joyful occasion Channappa Gowda in AD 1791 re occupied Tippu occupied Midigeshi and ruled for about seven months. This was the most peaceful moment he had in his life. In 1972 Mahanadu prabhus ended their rule as in the treaty of third Anglo Mysore war Tippu lost most parts of his land to British, Channappa Gowda ruled, it remained under Tippu Sultan.

The journey to Madhugiri and to the fort there from Bangalore haunts of this incident, of a journey made from Bangalore to elsewhere but not to any place near the capital of Mahanadu Prabhu’s Madhugiri but had a strong impact on the political economies trajectory of Madhugiri.

While climbing almost impossible steep monolith during our second visit which also has a fort built on and around it, we met an interesting engineering student running up the hill. This reminded me of two incidents. I had come here before, a year ago, with my sister and colleagues; we had met an old man grazing his sheep climbing the slippery mountain wearing a smooth Hawaii slipper without any support. My sister asked him tata (grandfather) how are you climbing, he replied with a sarcastic smile to my metropolitan sister finding it hard to climb, ‘its practice!’ Second, I and my friend had made a road trip to Madikeri, on the way we realized we were on wrong route to Abbi falls; we went towards a small hut, a pork shop on road side in Madikeri to ask for directions. To our surprise a stylish looking tall handsome coorgi man came out of the hut and answered in American accented English, ‘go straight, take left, keep going!’.

We keenly asked the engineering student about the place, why he came to the fort that often. He happily shared with us that the fort had seven entrances making it a ‘yelu suttina kote’ (fort with seven rounds in guard) making it very difficult to conquer in those days and as strong as Chitradurga fort. He also told us that there was a secret route to Chitradurga in the nearby hillock which is closed now. All this drove him up the hill every day.

Another local kannadiga family climbing the hill told us that they come here once in a month, since a mantapa in the hill is on a higher altitude to rest of the taluk it is a cooler place and most of the people visit the fort to relax here. While conversing with him about other tourist spots I got to know that he wanted the hill to get infrastructural improvement. He humbly replied we need a nearly maintained grass like garden and the steps that have been carved on the hillocks stone surface should be redone, the iron stone frame welded for supporting the climb should be made in some other material because, as the temperature raise it becomes difficult to climb down holding the rods. To our sadness he was diplomatic enough to not say with what cultural baggage does he consume the hill and the fort that was not so different from each other for him; to be in the fort is to be on the hill.

Second time we visited Madhugiri to find the statue of Nagi Reddy, which we found did not exist at all. This treasure hunt made us move through the taluk looking for different sources. We were told that the statue of Nagi Reddy was in Venkataramana temple. We went to the temple, surveyed the temple and realized we were in empty hands. Enquiring about the statue to head priest, we were informed that there was nothing like that.

Nagi Reddy who really lived a Prabhu’s life has a lesson to learn from. Nagi Reddy was a despotic, who harassed his subjects. He was never directly connected to Madhugiri, the capital of Mahanadu Prabhus. Not resisting the popularity of Mahanadu Prabhus, he criticized and humiliated Mahanadu Prabhus for being lower in caste hierarchy than him. For this reason Chikkappa Gowda III waged war against him and killed him. His wife committed Sati. After this all the lands of Nagi Reddy was conquered by Mahanadu Prabhus. An interesting folk tale proofs for not finding any lineage of Nagi Reddy clan in the region. Kavallamma, Lakkamma and other seven angels were travelling in sky over Reddy Palya, the village of Nagi Reddy. The reddys were safeguarding their crops by hanging birds and animals feeding on their jowar crops. To make them learn their lesson, Kavallamma plicked a jowar crop. This made a Reddy furiously angry, he caught hold of her forehead and started beating. Naturally Kavallamma retaliated by cursing him of extinction by clan and village slowly disappeared.

Madhugiri might have nostalgia of its inflation and politics but not of its beauty. While documenting Madhugiri Francis Buchanan in his book, A journey from Madras through the countries of Mysore, Canara and Malabar Vol I wrote, ‘the view of the Maddagiri hill on approaching from east is much finer than that of any hill fort I have seen’. The beauty of Madhugiri has also been described by Kannada laureates Hoysala, Masti Venkatesha Iyengar, Doddarange Gowda and others. These are true even to this day. The end of summer and before the onset of monsoon will be a perfect season to visit the place. The summer will make hill and region hotter, rainy season makes the mountain slippery. Keeping this criteria in mind june will be the best season to visit the place.

The beautiful part with Madhugiri apart from its landscape is its wonderful messes. On Sundays the hotels don’t serve meals so one has to visit mess in the locales. They serve some of the best rural south Indian rice and sambar. Much more surprising than this is the locally made packets of mysore pak. They are stacked in most of the groceries run by vyshyas here. To my first sight I just could not believe that they were mysore pak. The very packing itself raised doubts about its quality and taste in me. This is unbelievably true, the moment we eat this, all the boasting of pure ghee sweets that we are assured of, in cities are shattered. These sweets do not have extra fat in the name of pure ghee, they are just perfect. The taste of the taluk raise in vapours of mysore pak to tantalize your nostrils.  Anyone who visits this place must shop this delicacy.

Posted in The Traveller

“Pilgrimage & Pleasure-Gokarna, A true Paradise”

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Abhishek Goel explores Gokarna, which sits on a secluded seaside spot and is also a major stop point for travelers and Indian pilgrims

I have kind of ambiguous and dubious feelings about describing this very special place because on one hand I feel that this surreptitiously mysterious place should remain as pristine as it was when I first visited there. Because I know that I will visit this place again and again and the selfish side of me wants to keep this place for myself only forever. And on the other hand I feel its my duty to inform the people that such a special place exists in our very own country.

If you are looking for an offbeat adventure, Gokarna is the perfect place for you.Gokarna is a town in the Uttar Kannada district of Karnataka state,with a permanent population just above 25000.Few people know that the all famous Canara bank derives its name from this very district. Me and my friend started our journey from the all famous Palolem (Canacona) Beach,Goa and least did we know that how good a decision we had made by covering the distance of about 3 hours on hired bikes.The scenic beauty and the exquisite coastal town of Karwar on the way  were just the start of a splendid journey awaiting us.

We reached Gokarna in the evening just when the sky was ablaze with the sun setting and flaming yellow and fiery orange colors drooling all around us.At first look, some negative thoughts haunted our minds about our decision to spend our 3 days off in a lesser known and infamous Gokarna instead of the booze parties and music in Goa. We reached the Om beach in Gokarna at the time when it was pitch dark and unable to feel or even see the landscape, we just found a nice shack to spend the night in the wait of the morning.

Gokarna means the cow’s ear. As told by the shack owner, Vishnu, the Hindu god Shiva, after being banished by Brahma from Kailasa, returned from hell through the ear of a cow. This is the lore that has been incanted to name the abode of Shiva’s Atma Linga. How his Atma Linga came to be here is another fascinating tale.Ardent Shiva devotee Ravana was taking the form of Shiva, his Atma Linga, to Lanka. Other gods worried it would make Ravana too powerful. So Vishnu orchestrated a sundown, forcing the pious Ravana to perform his evening rituals. Ganesha appeared as a boy and offered to hold aloft the Linga while Ravana bathed. Once Ravana was out of sight, Ganesha firmly lodged the Atma Linga at Gokarna, thus preventing Ravana from taking it to Lanka.

But this all is the mythological side of Gokarna.it is a town of contrasts as it is a temple town and what made me fall in love with this place was a series of splendid and pristine beaches ( I think the best ones and least known in India).

Our trip started the next morning when we woke to catch the glimpse of the rising sun; we were totally awestruck seeing the view on Om beach. Walking up the Om shaped curvature almost all alone at 6 in the morning we could hear the waves breaking in a thundered measure. Around me were the Gokarna forests,echoing with chattering of the thousands of rising birds along with us,it was more melodious than any of the early morning songs, beyond me
the cold and sparkling blue of the sea,the wind punishing the hair.It was at that very moment when I realized that I have been on many beaches in my life but never had such an immense pleasure just in walking on the beach. It truly felt like paradise.

We decided to have breakfast in the all famous Namaste Café  . The American breakfast served with fresh Kiwi juice was a delight for our bellies and conversing with some of the hippies (who were living on the beach from the past 1 month now) gave goose bumps when they described the scenic beauty of the area.

We wanted to have a feel of the Gokarna town so we decided to leave the Om beach and went strolling around the streets in the town. The town of Gokarna was as any other pilgrim place with pundits walking around in their traditional dresses.The only unusual thing was that a lot of foreign tourists also could be seen buying stuff from the local market.

The amazing thing about Gokarna is that it offers near-virgin beaches separated by hills and cliffs forming an unending panorama of nature’s beauty at its best. This coastline is surrounded by more than 10 beaches, the popular ones being Gokarna beach, Kudle beach, Om beach, Half moon beach and Paradise beach.

I want the readers to use the Google maps before reading this part and just gaze at top view of the coast of India in this part of the Konkan region. There are a series of small beaches with Kudle beach being the first , next comes Om beach , the only beach in the world to be shaped like the Hindu auspicious symbol AUM, then is the Half Moon beach , and next is the Paradise beach.

The farther you get, the more secluded the place gets , greater the serenity and tranquility ,clearer the water, greater the blissfulness of the landscape.

We started our trek from the Kudle beach, the word is derived from the local word “kudle” meaning small, known for its white sands. Lot of local tourists could be seen here with people taking bath in the crystal clear water. The beach is surrounded on all the three sides by hillocks and the view from the top was stunning.

The trek from Kudle to Om beach was a short one but was wondrous. We witnessed a variety of unnatural flora and fauna, with monkeys also enjoying the weather.

Reaching the Om beach , was an easy task for us, taking only 40 min or so. Om beach is just the same as others, covered by hills and you won’t get the view of the beach till you reach the top of the cliff and then you have to make your way down through the rocky path. The OM shape could be realized standing on the top of the hill.

We had to spend the rest of our days here on the Om beach so we decided to move further. On enquiring we came to know that the others are around a 20 minute hike away from each other through the hills and over rocks, or a short boat ride away.The trek from beach started and our breaths were taken away by just seeing the never ending coastline visible from the top. The trek became more dangerous than before and we wondered was this trek even possible in the monsoon season.

Half moon beach is a small beach with only 3 or 4 odd cafes and only hippies could be seen there with we being the only Indians, apart from the café owners. We decided to take rest as the sun had reached just above the horizon. The setting sun ,with it the light becoming dimmer and dimmer filled our hearts with feelings of joy and haunting us at the same time as we still had to go to the paradise beach and return to Om beach from there safely. We knew that we can’t traverse back on foot in the dark so we had to get a boat ride back. We had to make our way through the jungle literally to reach the paradise beach with only us in the vicinity.

The last beach, Paradise Beach, is not much more than a tiny protected cove that’s a patch of hippie paradise. But as the name goes it was a truly mesmerizing feeling reaching there as very few people decide to cross the jungle and reach this heavenly spot.

On the way we met a fellow named Akiva, an Israeli by nationality,ex armyman who has been living here for 15 years,as he had no family waiting for him back in Israel.We could converse with him only by writing on a rugged piece of paper as his English speaking skills were not efficient . We wondered was he blessed or unfortunate living in a place as secluded as this.

We found a boat with great difficulty from the paradise beach that gave us relief as it was impossible to get near the dense jungle, forget about passing. We had heard that travelers have frequent encounters with cobras,fortunately not with us.

We returned to the Om beach and seeing all the hippies sitting outside on the white sands around a bornfire, singing rock songs of the 70s and drinking beer, relaxing, we joined them and just relaxed through the rest of the night with the only sound heard was of the guitar playing, Jimi Hendrix’s song Purple Haze sung by a beautiful Irish girl (who liked to call herself MAYA) and ofcourse the gushing ocean.

One must travel to Gokarna to get a feel of what Goa was like in its heyday, as the time is not far when the tranquility and seclusion of this place will fall prey to commercialization.

Posted in Celebrating India