Travel and Deal

A virgin place on the verge of Srinagar: Doodhpathri | Nisha Aggarwal

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The month of June has arrived, so have the sweltering summers. And there is no doubt that we Delhites experience it a bit hotter being the residents of a hustling crowded capital of the country. But one relaxing thing the month of June brings is summer break. If not for the working professionals other than the educators, then at least for school going kids and for college going youngsters. Parents must be ready for insistence of the first and for the already ready plans with friends
of the second. Yes, I am talking about the insistence and plans for a trip to some cooler places. Delhi has many hilly and snow clad places to travel around its vicinity. Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand and Jammu & Kashmir are the top neighboring states which provides a perfect summer getaway. Srinagar in Jammu & Kashmir has been an all-time favorite not only for us Indians, but foreigners as well. In this regard I feel I have been extremely lucky that at least once in a life time I had an opportunity to live in such a place which is known as ‘the paradise on earth’.

The two years when I was posted in Kashmir valley were perhaps the most peaceful and beautiful days of my life. When you have beautiful ‘outside’, it becomes peaceful ‘inside’. Taking a limited trip to some place of your choice is one thing, but living there instead for a considerable amount of time becomes an entirely different game. A limited duration of tour can provide you a glimpse of an overall scenic view, local culture, and local cuisines but a fixed long stay makes you an integral part of that space and you become a localite yourself, at least till the time you are stationed there. The best part of becoming a localite is you are not bound by a time limit for visiting the places around. You can go out for a daylong getaway with colleagues, friends or family members, and can get back home and plan another day-long outing next week or month. It facilitates the deeper understanding of the place rather than a tour around its skin and an exploration to the lesser known places.

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Kashmir is best known for Srinagar’s lakes, Mughal gardens, and a few historical monuments and nearby places like Sonamarg, Gulmarg, and Pahalgam etc. Srinagar city doesn’t provide larger landscapes which includes grasslands and waterfalls, for that one has to go to either Gulmarg or to Pahalgam. But Srinagar is the central stay point if one wants to travel to all these places, as the city has better accommodation facilities and an airport. Pahalgam is the place which provides views of mountains, meadows and river falls at some broader level which is about 92 kms from Srinagar. If one has less time to travel and stay but wants to experience an essence of all of these at once, I would suggest they visit Doodhpathri. Doodhpathri, literally means ‘a valley of milk’ is located in Budgam district of Jammu & Kashmir and 42 kms from Srinagar. Doodhpathri lies in a bowl shaped valley in the Pir Panjal Range of the Himalayas. It is an alpine valley of mountains and the meadows of Pine Fir and Deodar. The natural meadows, which are covered with snow in winter, allow the growth of wild flowers such as daisies, forget-me-nots and butter cups during spring and summer.

It is said that the famous saint of Kashmir, Sheikh-ul-Aalam had prayed here. Once when he was in search for water in the meadows to offer prayers, he hit at the ground with his stick in search for water. However, milk came out instead. He addressed the milk, “you can only be used for drinking and not performing ablution.” Hearing this, the milk at once changed
its state to water and the meadow got its name, Doodhpathri. The water which is at present flowing through the meadows has a milky appearance from distance and remains very cold throughout the year.

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I went there in the beginning days of June along with colleagues (also friends), and still remember while writing this, as to how chilled the water and weather were. It was a rainy day and my colleagues were in their woolen jackets. I was somehow without any woolens and was literally shivering. The lush greens over the vast meadows and silver shining streams running over the large stones were further adding to its beauty.

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Doodhpathri has no permanent settlement and is inaccessible during winter due to heavy snowfall. Because unlike Sonamarg and Gulmarg there is no governmental effort to make it a tourist destination. That is the reason Doodhpathri is a fresh discovery
in Kashmir tourism, beauty of which is still untouched. The thing you should bring into notice before you packs your bags for Doodhpathri is, you won’t find any proper restaurant there so make sure you pack some food items along with you. However, the benefits to this place are, no left over garbage, no trouble from vendors and very less crowd. All that you will get is a vast expanse of natural beauty and nothing to distract you from taking it all through your eyes.

The famous Tosa Maidan lies in the west of Doodhpathri and has been officially opened to visitors from 30 May 2016. During summers shepherds from the plains of district Budgam bring cattle for grazing and remain in Doodhpathri seasonally for about six months. The routes of Doodhpathri are from Srinagar to Budgam, Budgam to Khansahib and Khansahib to Doodhpathri. Total distance of about 42 kms. This route is near to Srinagar airport. Another route is from Srinagar Gulmarg road, the route starts from Srinagar to Magam, Magam to Beerwah and Beerwah to Arizal. Total distance is about 50 km. Before you reach Doodhpathri, a beautiful place of small valleys welcomes you. This place called ‘Tangnar’ is filled with deodar and pine trees on small hills. As you reach to the place Doodhpathri, from the parking area, you can reach the river ‘Shaliganga’ by pony or by walking. Cars may also reach this place in summer, when there is no snow. But until March-April, when roads are covered with heavy snow, commuting happens through pony ride which takes about 20 minutes, and walking which takes around 30 minutes. It’s a beautiful spot with flowing river-which you can cross over a wooden bridge. There is a small hamlet called ‘Mujpathri’ on the banks of river Shaliganga. The other side of the river includes picturesque landscapes with lot of pine trees and a beautiful meadow called ‘Diskhal’ on top of the mountain and overlooks the Ashtaar glacier. It’s approximately a 10 kms long trek from Shaliganga nallah.

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While returning back from the Doodhpathri, there is another treat for the eyes at ‘Palmaidan’. The name of this place is after the ‘Big Stones’ because there are huge stones all around the ground. It situated at a distance of about 5 km from Doodpathri and is the favorite spot of shepherds and cow herders, where they gather in large numbers in summer and graze their cattle and livestock. It is beautiful place with a small stream running on one side of the ground. You can find some ruined structures made of bricks, a place which may provide you nice backgrounds for clicking away!

Posted in Destination of The Month, India Rediscovered

The summery, spicy and very Rajasthani: Ker Sangri | Sowmya Sisodia

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Ker Sangri is an extremely popular dish from Rajasthan, which is quintessentially sour and spicy, much like pickle. Ker, or dried dessert berries and Sangri, or dried dessert beans are found in the more barren parts of Rajasthan. Cleaning the Ker and Sangri are quite the task, otherwise it is a relatively easy dish to make. It is traditionally eaten with bajra roti.

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Photo Courtesy: WikiMedia

INGREDIENTS
• 0.5 Cup Ker
• 1 Cup Sangri
• 8 Dry Red Chillies
• 2 Tsp Cumin Seeds
• 2.5 Tsp Ginger Paste
• 2.5 Tsp Garlic Paste
• 0.5 Tsp Turmeric Powder
• 1 Tsp Coriander Powder
• 1 Tsp Fennel Seeds Powder
• 1.5 Tsp Red Chilli Powder
• 5 Tsp Dry Mango Powder
• 6 Tbsp Yogurt
• Salt
• 2 Tbsp Mustard Oil

METHOD
1. Thoroughly wash and ker and sangri with water, then soak them overnight.
2. Next day, drain the water and wash ker sangri once again.
3. Boil 2.5 cups of water in a big pot. Put the ker sangri in it and add salt.
4. Cook for 5-7 minutes and turn off the heat.
5. Heat oil in a deep pan and add cumin seeds and dry red chillies.
6. Add ginger and garlic paste when the cumin seeds begin to crackle.
7. Add turmeric powder, coriander powder, fennel seeds powder, red chilli
powder and mix.
8. Add 3-4 tablespoons of water and cook the spices for a minute.
9. Now, add ker and sangri along with 3-4 tablespoons of water in which they
have been boiled along with dry mango powder. Cook for 2 minutes.
10. Beat yogurt and transfer to kadai. Also adjust quantity of salt at this stage.
12. Cook for another 5-7 minutes and turn off the heat.
13. Serve with hot rotis or parathas.

Posted in Food, From The Kitchen Shelf

Ambubachi Mela: The Tantric Fertility Festival | Shanku Sharma | Photographs: Partha Seal

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“Asato Maa Sad Gamaya
Tamaso Maa Jyotir Gamaya”

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It is true that menstruation or menstrual cycle is mostly considered a taboo as far as religious doings are concerned, and people seldom like to open up about the subject without considerable reluctance. However, lakhs of people throng the famous Kamakhya Temple atop the Nilachal Hills of Guwahati in Assam during the famed Ambubachi Mela (Ambubachi Fair) or Ameti, also known as the Tantric fertility festival which generally falls on the last week of June. It is a ritual, a ceremony which is observed according to Tantric ways. It is a most celebrated belief that Devi Kamakhya, the Goddess of Shakti (Power), undergoes her annual cycle of menstruation. Interestingly, during this fair, the doors of the temple remain shut for three whole days.

It is held that the Goddess remains impure and unclean for these three days. So, any kind of productive works like farming is not exercised during these days. Even worships and other religious activities also remain ceased during the fair. All through these days devotees do not cook, do not perform Puja and do not read holy books. The Kamakhya temple is one of the 51 Shakti Peethas which lies distributed in the Indian sub continent. The doors of the temple are opened only after the completion of three days. Doors will only be opened after the Goddess Kamakhya is bathed and other rituals are carried out.

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It is a ritual of the Tantric cult. It is only on the fourth day when devotees of the Goddess are not stopped from entering the temple for worshipping her. There are several layers of mystery, myth and other-worldliness about Ambubachi Mela. Kamakhya is also called Kamarupa – the form and shape of love, desire and lust. The Goddess is worshipped in both her maternal and erotic roles. In fact, there is no idol of the deity. She is worshipped in the shape and form of a Yoni like black stone from where, quite mysteriously, a natural spring flows.

Tantric cult is quite prevalent and common in the eastern parts of the country. The Tantric Babas who remains in isolation and seclusion for the rest of the year, makes their appearances public only during these four days. One can find some Babas exhibiting their psychic and extrasensory powers like inserting their heads in a pit and standing upright on it and remaining in a standing position on one leg for a long time. It is of importance and interest that the Prasad is distributed in the forms of Angodak and Angabastra. Angodak is the fluid part of the body and Angabastra refers to the piece of red cloth which is used to cover the stone Yoni during these three days.

Pilgrims, lakhs in number, from Sadhus to shareholders, from writers to wrestlers and from ministers to masons visit this temple. Sanyasins, Sadhus, Sadhvis, Aghorasa and even Bauls of West Bengal do not forget to visit this place during Ambubachi Mela. In addition to this, people from aboard also come to seek the Goddess’ blessings. This year the Mela will begin from June 22. Devotees can worship the Goddess on June 26. The police and civil administration of Guwahati makes adequate and ample arrangements for all tourists and the pilgrims. Camps are set up for provision of shelter and accommodation to the visitors. A huge number of volunteers are engaged for making suitable provisions.

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Mythology has it that once Lord Shiva flew through the skies in anger at the death of Sati, his beloved consort. A question that haunts us is whether women in India will ever get safety and security? India is a country where female goddesses and deities are worshipped but living women are tortured, beaten, killed, burnt alive and raped.

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Posted in Celebrating India, Festive India, Local Culture

Festivals of June

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The mangoes have arrived in full swing and so has the heat! Summer is here folks, and this month, like last month brings with it some more spectacular occasions to celebrate. From stunning local festivals like Assam’s Ambubachi Mela at the Kamakhya Temple to the nationally celebrated Eid-al-Fitr, to the internationally observed World Environment Day and International Yoga Day, this month brings forth a potpourri of reasons to rejoice. Sojourn with us as Travel & Deal explores the myriad festivals of June!

Sindhu Darshan Festival
River Sindhu (Indus): Shey Manla, Leh
1st-3rd June 2018

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On the banks of the ancient Indus River in Shey Manla, the very colourful and culturally heterogeneous Sindhu Darshan festival is celebrated as an ode to the diverse tradition of India. The festival marks the beautiful blending cultural hues of our country, where earthen pots of water drawn from various rivers across India is immersed into the waters of Sindhu River. Participants are given a grand reception, followed by performances from the local folk troupes. In addition, local music and food create a spectacular ambience of cheer.

World Environment Day
Worldwide
5th June 2018

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The World Environment Day holds greater significance this year as India will be playing host to the event. Traditionally, Indian philosophy and lifestyle have been rooted in the concept of co-existence with nature. With the “Beat Plastic Pollution” theme this year, the focus is essentially on governments, industry, communities, and individuals to come together and explore sustainable alternatives and urgently reduce the production and excessive use of single-use plastic polluting our oceans which are evidently damaging to our marine life and also pose danger for human health.

Eid-al-Fitr
All over India
15th June 2018

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As the first day of the Islamic month of Shawwal, Eid-al-Fitr marks the end of Ramadan, a month of fasting and prayer. Many Muslims attend communal prayers and listen to a khutbaor sermon on the first day of the month of Shawwal. Festive meals are prepared elaborately and people wear new clothes, visit relatives and give presents or candy to children.

Saga Dawa
Gangtok, Sikkim
15th June 2018

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The silent, serene hills of Kanchenjunga sees a sudden eruption of colours in the month of June. Saga Dawa is considered the most important festival of the Mahayana Buddhists, and celebrates the three most significant events of Buddha’s life: His birth, death and enlightenment. The celebrations happen with enormous fanfare! Each ritual is performed with a strong essence of spirituality and understanding.

Maharana Pratap Jayanti
Primarily Rajasthan
16th June 2018

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Born in the 16th century in Kumbhalgarh, Rajasthan to Maharana Udai Singh II and Rani Jaiwantabai, the legendary Maharana Pratap was a true patriot who initiated the first war of independence. In the famous battle of Haldighati against Mughal monarch Akbar, the Maharana along with his equally able Rajput comrades, fought back heroically irrespective of being heavily outnumbered. Maharana Pratap is respected throughout the country for being an epitome of valor, heroism, pride, patriotism and standing for the spirit of independence. His birth anniversary is celebrated on the 3rd day of Jyestha Shukla, when Special puja and processions are held in his remembrance.

International Yoga Day
Worldwide
21st June 2018

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Centuries ago, a great Indian sage named Patanjali wrote the ‘Yoga Sutra’ – an exhaustive documentation on the art and science of yoga, where he recommended eight stages of yogic discipline.Years from then, yoga still subsists as a way of life for most Indians and people all over the world. Such has its significance grown in the last decade that a special day was launched to honor the phenomenon in 2015. Since then, the International Yoga Day acclaims the art of righteous living and the attainment of the physical, mental and spiritual wellness.

Ambubachi Mela
Kamakhya Temple, Guwahati (Assam)
22nd-25th June 2018

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One of the most unique and popular festivals of India, the Ambubachi Mela attracts pilgrims from all over the country. This festival is distinctive in its own right, and stoutly confronts many of the usual temple customs. It is believed that during this time of the year, typically in the monsoons, Devi Kamakhya (a form of Goddess Shakti) goes through her annual menstrual cycle. Owing to legends, the Kamakhya temple is regarded as one of the Shakti Peethas, and this spot was where the yoni (vulva) part of the Goddess’ body fell. During the festival, the temple doors remain closed for three days. No idol of the deity is in display. Instead She is worshiped in form of a black yoni-like stone. All other daily worship, religious performances and farming procedures are suspended at that time. On the fourth day, the temple doors are opened, when the deity is believed to have attained fertility and She blesses the land with good crops. Shreds of red cloth is distributed among devotees as an offering by the God.

Sao Joao Feast
Across Goa, mainly Siolim
24th June 2018

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Abound with flowers, feni and lots of fun, Sao Joao is an exclusive fiesta made only for the newlyweds. The festival involves husbands wearing floral wreaths on their heads, getting drunk on feni (a locally procured alcoholic drink) and then jumping into wells to impress their wives. Too much fun! And if only the rains begin while the festival is still underway, which it often does, the entire level of merriment shoots up by scores.The feast is absolutely delightful, fresh and local; and the quirky Goan dance and music perfectly leitmotifs the event. Makes for some very memorable moments, to be savored for life by the participating young couples.

Hemis Festival
Ladakh and Jammu & Kashmir
26th-27th June 2018

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According to popular belief, the festival of Hemis is primarily a religious affair. However, there may be more layers of significance around this event if one thinks about it. The Hemis monastery, the largest Buddhist monastery in Ladakh, forms the pivot point of all festivities. The masked dances, also known as ‘Chham Dance’, illustrate triumph of good over bad, and are thus the highlights of this festival. Some sacred plays are also an important part of this festival, as are ‘Devil Dances’. ‘Chang’, a local liquor is served publicly. Also, Exhibition of striking handicrafts adds to the charm of the gala. The lamas from the local community pose as artistes and perform to local folk music. The head Lama or ‘Rinpoche’ is the presiding person of the event. As per traditions, these monks wear long gowns, elaborate masks and a headgear. Every mask holds a special significance associated with it. The extravagant dance rituals along with soulful music keeps spectators spellbound in bliss.

Kabirdas Jayanti
All over India
28th June 2018

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All know that the drop merges into the ocean, but few know that the ocean merges into the drop.” – Sant Kabir

One of India’s highly celebrated and revered poet-saints, Kabir Das, was born in the 15th century in the holy city of Benaras, Uttar Pradesh. Till date, his birth remains a mystery and a thing of legends, where a definite consensus has still not been reached whether he was Hindu or Muslim. His esteemed works and poems describe the greatness and oneness of the Supreme Being. Kabir Jayanti commemorates the birth anniversary of such distinguished poet.It is celebrated on Purnima or full moon day, during the month of ‘Jyesta’ as per the traditional Hindu calendar. Poems of Sant Kabir Das are recited with great fervor among his followers. Various meetings and satsangs are held in different places. Religious sermons are held at Kabirchaura Math in Benaras where religious and spiritual leaders preach his teachings to the common man. In certain places a procession called the ‘Shobhayatra’ is taken out that culminates in the Kabir temple of that location.

Posted in Festive India, Local Culture

Festivals of May

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As the final month of Spring arrives, we find ourselves standing on the threshold to Summer. The flowers are in full bloom, the first phase of planting rituals this year are over, and many varieties of mangoes have already begun arriving, much to our delight! India, the land of myriad celebrations brings forth another bouquet of the most fantastic festivals this month. From the Annual Flower Festival of Sikkim to the incredible Dhungri Mela of Manali, read on to discover as Travel & Deal explores the innumerable range of festivities this month!

International Flower Festival
When: May 1–31
Where: Gangtok, Sikkim

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The Sikkim landscapes have much to offer this month. Over 400 types of orchids, along with varied species of rhododendrons and many other exotic varieties of blooms. Additionally, along with the gorgeous floral exhibitions, the capital city of Gangtok also hosts lectures and seminars on its numerous foliage.

Moatsu Festival
When: First week of May each year.
Where: Mokokchung, Nagaland

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The Moatsu Festival is a time of great jubilation as the planting season comes to an end. Basically the festival marks the advent of the upcoming harvest season. It is celebrated by the Ao tribes of Nagaland and involves lot of singing, dancing, and merry making. Men and women put on the best of their outfits, sit around fire, and indulge in eating meat and wine. Sounds like heaven does it not?

Thrissur Pooram
When: May 5
Where: Thrissur, Kerala

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A unique festival in its own right, this is an approximately one-and-a-half day marathon of a celebration that goes on non-stop! About ten deities from the all the neighboring temples are assembled at Thrissur, and this majestic procession is carried out with over 50 heavily decorated elephants carting the deities. An exceptional spectacle indeed. Hymns and devotional chants fill the air along with fireworks at night.

Buddha Purnima
When: May 10
Where: Sarnath, Uttar Pradesh

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Sarnath, the place where Buddha is believed to have delivered his first sermon after attaining salvation, still remains an important point of summit for all His followers, these many years after His mortal death. Buddhist monks and followers from all across the world congregate at this remarkable spot to celebrate the birth anniversary of Gautama Buddha. The celebrations are peaceful and extremely profound, consisting of prayers, discourses and meditation.

Dhungri Mela
When: May 14-16 every year.
Where: Hadimba Temple, Manali, Himachal Pradesh

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The Dhungri Mela goes on for three days, as an ode to Goddess Hidimba’s birthday in the gorgeous hill town of Manali. Hidimba was the wife of Bhima, one of the five Pandavas from the great Hindu epic Mahabharata. Her presence has always been considered of honour, and her Her temple is one of the most important ones in the region. Many Gods and Goddesses from surrounding villages are carried in procession to attend the celebrations. A carnival is arranged, and there is much merry making, complete with stalls of all kinds and joy rides. The festival involves traditional cultural singing and dancing, along with performances of the Kullu Natti folk dance, the local folk dance.

Ramadan
When: May 15-June 14, 2018.
Where: Mumbai, Delhi, Lucknow, Hyderabad

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Ramadan is when Muslims fast daily sunrise until sunset. In the evenings, the streets in traditional Muslim areas are inundated with the very alluring aroma of freshly roasted meat and sweet bread to feed the hungry folks. Ramadan ends with the festival of Eid-ul-Fitr, with more feasting and shopping.

Ganga Dussehra
When: May 24, 2018.
Where: Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh

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When Bhagiratha prayed and paid his penance to Brahma for Ganga to comes down to Earth, Brahma agreed and ordered Ganga to descend to the planet. However came a warning, that the force with which Ganga would flow may have an alarming impact on Earth. Thus began Bhagirath’s second penance seeking Lord Shiva’s help in the matter. Pleased with his imploring, Shiva appeared and softened Ganga’s fall with his matted locks. Thus prevailed the river of purity on Earth, and Ganga Dussehra is celebrated to mark this auspicious time of her descent. A large number of pilgrims come together alongside the holy river, to bathe in it and worship.

Posted in Festive India

Paleng Xakor Khar: An Assamese Special | Parindita Bhattacharyya

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A traditional Assamese dish always starts with Khar and rice. Khar has tremendous health benefits as it cleanses the stomach.

Khar is mainly prepared by drying and burning a banana (especially bhim banana is used for making khar) to render the ashes. Later, water is added to filter the ashes, known as Kola Khar, which is the main ingredient of this preparation, and can be used for making different types of khar.

INGREDIENTS:

1) Spinach
2) Kola khar
3) Garlic
4) Green chillis
5) Salt (1tbsp)
6) Mustard oil

PREPARATION:

* First heat the oil in a frying pan.
* Then put the minced garlic cloves and chillies in it. Stir and fry for at least 1 – 2 minutes.
* Shred the spinach into it and add 1tbsp salt for an enhanced flavor.
* Finally added the kola khar and then cover it with a lid. Adjust the flame to low so that the spinach gets cooked.
* As soon as the entire things get mushy turn off the heat.

Here is a simple dish with a unique taste…

Posted in Food

The Aravathimoovar Festival of Mylapore | Hema Iyer Ramani

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You do not always have to travel outside geographical boundaries to experience travel. Just as it is important to journey outside and explore , it is also important to seek within and it was this thought that stayed with me as I thought of the city that has been my home for the past two and half decades.

Ironically, it has seemed to me that the city was more old fashioned and orthodox when it was called Madras. Chennai, though it sounds more regional, has actually made the city more modern in its outlook. There is so much character to each of the cities that we live in that we often take so much for granted when we are in the midst of it as participants. I have found that there is a fine blend of the old, the modern, the cultural and scientific spirit (seasoned with religious and linguistic flavour as is noticed in many other cities too) in Madras, and these come alive during important festivals and activities.

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When urbanization claims a city, radical changes quickly colour the entire city and it readies itself for the sudden change of outfits literally and figuratively- pavadais and dhavanis led to lehengas and salwar kameezes. And yet, amidst all the change, the ones rooting for tradition cling on to the roots ever so tightly that at the time of festivities, the mask is removed and one gets a peep into the cultural history through the many layers that have wrapped themselves around the city.

Mylapore is a temple town where the grand old temple of Shiva, the Kapaleeshwara temple is housed – a temple pond, though dry mostly, is a reminder of the grand memories of a beautiful pond in the past. Old buildings, some rambling jostle around with the newly rich ones. Small shops modestly overlook the grand stores. And yet, during the Aravathimoovar (translated ‘the sixty three’ in Tamizh), it is these small stores that become the toast of the town- bangle sellers, potters, toy makers, all co-exist. The unmistakable fragrance of mallipoo blends with the strong smell of kaapi seeds being roasted. Somewhere a dosai is being roasted in ghee… The flower sellers occupy the adjoining lane that is closest to the temple- there are so many of them getting garlands ready for the deities, each one more beautiful than the other. Women dazzle in silk saris – some in traditional nine yards and the others in six yards. Yet there are many in salwar kameezes too!

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The Sri Kapaleeshwarar temple in Mylapore ( a town that was dotted with peacocks or mayil and sacred groves) is considered the most sacred to the Shavaites. It is one of the oldest temples tracing its history back to several centuries (prior to 11th-12th C), but the present temple as it stands today was rebuilt about 300 years back feel the temple authorities. There is a punnai tree in the outer courtyard of the temple and this is one of the oldest trees in Madras. Beneath it, is a small shrine in which is commemorated the legend which bequeathed Mylapore its name. The sculpture in this shrine shows Goddess Uma in the form of a peacock worshipping Shiva as a lingam.

Around Panguni-Utthiram (March-April), the entire town takes on a celebratory mode. Panguni –Uthiram is celebrated as the wedding of Kapaleeshwarar (Shiva) and Karpagambal (Parvathy). As part of the celebrations, various deities are taken out in processions around the four mada streets of Mylapore. Streets wear a washed, clean look and every home has a beautiful kolam drawn in its courtyard. In fact kolams are drawn all over the street where the chariot is drawn in a procession. On each day, a different vahana (like God’s vehicle- Nandi) is taken on a procession too. The two main events which form the highlight of this festival is the Big Chariot Fest and the Aravathimoovar. A gigantic wooden chariot adorned with beautiful carvings, appliquéd fabric festoons, colourful cylindrical hangings called thombais, is drawn by hordes of people around the four streets adjoining the temple and taken in a procession. The other event called the Aravathimoovar is when the 63 cast bronze images of the Nayanmars (cannonised Shaivite saints) which normally adorns the outer yard of the temple is taken out in a procession in clusters in small Chapparams (small palanquin).

Devotees from all across the city flock to the temple to witness the grand event and all the streets seem like a sea of humanity with no place to move…

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The fest comes to grand finale with the tirukalyanam (the divine wedding) of Kapaeeshwarar and Karpagambal. The festival goes on for ten days – beginning with the pandal kaal (sacred bamboo pole) being planted firmly in the ground to announce the commencement of festivities, the thaer (chariot) on the seventh day, the aravathimoovar on the eight day, Pichandi on the ninth day (when an angry Shiva takes a begging bowl and goes seeking alms, a patient Parvathy calms him and brings him back) and finally culminates in the wedding on the last day.

Many shopkeepers participate in the festivities each contributing in their own way. Says Satish of Sarangan Flower Shop :
“We feel very honoured and blessed to be participating in the floral decoration of stage for the wedding and creating the garlands for the divine couple.”

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When the festivities end, once again Mylapore wears the look to welcome the new changes that have been well absorbed into its character.

Posted in Local Culture

The Historical Splendor of Cachar District | Shanku Sharma | Photographs: Partha Seal

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In the elder days of Art,
Builders wrought with greatest care
Each minute and unseen part;
For the gods see everywhere.
- H W Longfellow

Historical relics, remains and ruins, art and architecture, customs and traditions, have always fascinated and enthralled the human kind. People take keen interest to know about ancient places especially those which are on the threshold of losing its name and existence in the sands of time. Khaspur is one such village which is home to the ruins of one of the oldest kingdoms, the century old Dimasa Kingdom.

Khaspur is a picturesque village, located just 20 kms from Silchar, in the Cachar district of the state of Assam. Though the kingdom is in ruins and the king’s palace is slowly going to be fictional and nonexistent, the entrance gates have passed many suns and storms. It is still there standing tall and magnificent. One can however find the centuries old king’s temple, the Sun gate and the Lion gate. The gates have been modeled on the shape of an elephant.

Dimasa kingdom was an influential, powerful and dominant kingdom. Located in Assam, the rulers of the kingdom were from an ethnic group – Dimasa. Remnants and relics of this mighty kingdom remained till the arrival of the British. It was this kingdom that named the two districts of Assam, Cachar and North Cachar Hills (Dima Hasao district). Owing to the lack of recorded documents in the form of manuscripts, pamphlets or any other such paraphernalia, the origin of Dimasa is vague, misty, mysterious and mystifying. Legends have it that in ancient period, the Dimasas were forced to leave Kamrupa kingdom because of political turmoil and chaos. Many Kacharis failed to cross Brahmaputra and remained there. But those who could cross the mighty and great river were named as Dimasa which means ‘sons of the river’. Kachari Ghat which lies on the river banks of Brahmaputra is a testimony of the above mentioned fact.

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Worshipping has been one of the most integral and inseparable aspect of our culture and Dimasas were no exception at all. They had the custom and tradition of worshipping Kechai Khaiti. It was at Maibong where the royal family became Hindu. Since there is no vital record preserved, one has to fall back on legends and folklores.

According to one such legend, the royal family is believed to be the descendants of Ghatotkacha, who happened to be the son of Bhima from the epic Mahabharata. Hidimba, Bhima’s wife and Ghatotkacha’s mother, was a princess of the Dimasa people. It is held that when the Pandavas were on exile, they reached Kachari kingdom. Bhima, it is believed, fell in love with Hidimba, the sister of Hidimbo, and married her. A son, Ghatotkacha was born to them who ruled the kingdom for several decades.

There is also a strong belief that the Kacharis took an active participation in the war saga of Mahabharata. If one goes by Hindu mythology, Dimapur was named after the princess Hidimba and Assam was probably the first capital of the Kachari kingdom before Dimapur was. Dimasa Kachari rule was extended to, and remained unconquered, to the pains of Cachar.

Khaspur is the place where ruins of this mighty kingdom still exist. In the 16th century, Khaspur, originally a part of Tripura kingdom, was won over by the legendary Chilarai. Khaspur became independent only after the decline and weakening of Koch power as the Koch rulers passed way sans a successor. Thus, Dimasa Kachari kingdom’s capital moved to Khaspur, in Silchar. It is also locally known as Rajbari, which means the ‘King’s Palace’. The ruins in disperse inside Pathimara tea estate can be easily accessible. A walk around the tea gardens gives a good view of the remnants of this majestic kingdom.

Khaspur is not only a place of attraction in and around Silchar and Cachar. A host of temples, educational institutions, historical sites and spots, lakes and rivers, picturesque hills, hillocks, low lying basins known as beel, anwa or howar have also been pulling people towards this part of the North Eastern belt. Shon beel, Rata beel, Chatla howar, Ramnagar anwa are the some of the water bodies supplying fish. Nrimata temple at Barkhola, Bhubaneswar Shiva temple at Chandragiri in Sonai, Badarpur Fort in Badarpur, tea gardens, Siddeshwar temple in Badarpur, Bhuban Hills in Cachar, Malegarh at Latu in Karimganj, Rengti Hills in Cachar, Silchar railway station which is unofficially known as Bhasha Shaheed Station, Rantilla at Mohanpur Mouza in Hailakandi and Kachakanti temple in Udharbond are some of the important landmarks, temples and historical sites which can be counted among the top sites for visiting and taking a slice of history. Each and every aspect of Cachar is dipped in history. Even a seminal tome on Cachar district may not be enough to do justice to this place and its historical significance.

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Posted in History and Heritage