Monthly Archives: January 2020

Arati Desai

First political unrest and then the tsunami, Sri Lanka has been ravaged over the years yet, there is a sense of peace and fortitude that prevails over this small island. For the regular traveller neighbouring countries are an obvious choice for a holiday. Sri Lanka occupies a soft spot in the hearts of many an Indian   traveller, who opt not only for its proximity and easy accessibility but also for the old world charm the country has retained.

The famous circuit of the Sri Lankan holiday normally covers Colombo, Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, Ella and Galle but there is so much more to this quaint country. Being an island makes it an all around the year destination. Yes, there are 2 monsoons but one for each coast, so in the Indian summer months of May and June, the east coast of Sri Lanka is the perfect holiday destination. Eastern Sri Lanka surprises with its diverse experiences – heritage, cultural experiences, world heritage sites, beautiful beaches, wildlife and surf waves.

Starting from Colombo, head straight to Dumbulla.  Dumbulla’s famed rock cave temple complex is       Sri Lanka’s largest and most well preserved temple complex. Five separate caves dating back to the 1^st century BC hold 150 Buddhist statues and paintings which are 2000 years ago. These caves bear a spiritual atmosphere which is enhanced by many epochs of Sinhala sculpture and Sinhala art, marking one of the many memorable experiences in the country.

The next day visit the ancient rock fortress Sigiriya, perched on a 200 meter tall rock plateau. Sigiriya, the lion rock, a world heritage site is truly an architectural marvel. Some of the unique features of this 5^th century fortress complex includes remains of a king’s palace, surrounded by an extensive network of fortifications, vast landscaped gardens, ponds, canals, alleys and fountains. While it served as a monastery since the 3^rd century till the 5^th century, King Kashyapa converted it into his royal residence  and it remained so for 13 years (473- 496 AD) till he died. Thereafter it returned to being a monastery till the 14^th century when it was abandoned. Apart from its splendid architecture, Sigiriya is also known for its amazing frescos dating back to till date to the 7^th-8^th century. Of these delicately painted frescos 18 are still visible. Tourists have been visiting this monumental site since hundreds of years and continue to even more so today.

Heading to the north of Sri Lanka, drive 100 kms to Trincomalee. The city, recovering from several years of civil war which ended in 2009, is now accessible to tourists. The population is a diverse mix of Sinhalese, Tamils and Muslims. The coastal beach town of Nilaveli is a popular tourist destination peppered with several resorts and cafes. There is a lot to do here like Snorkeling on Pigeon Island, whale watching (from March to August)   and a visit to the historic Koneswaram Temple. Remnants of Tricomalee’s violent past can be seen in the war memorials. One of the most beautiful is ‘The Trincomalee War Cemetery’ which honours the British and French soldiers that fought to win this natural harbor.

From Trincomalee, leave for Arugam Bay via Passikudah. ‘Passikudah’ means green algae beach and its beach is so pristine that you feel you are in a different world all together. With hardly any hotels and even lesser tourists at this beach, it is the perfect place for solitude seekers who need just the ocean and a good book. Offering an extended shallow coastline, the beach is perfect for shallow swimming.

Arugam Bay in itself has a whole lot to explore, be it the Panama beach, the crocodile groves or the Kumana National Park or the surf waves. You will find Aussies, Germans and even Israelis coming to surf here. This leads to a great number of hotels and restaurants offering western options as well as traditional Srilankan Cuisine. You can find the best pizza in Sri Lanka over here. Arugam Bay has a sort of Goan feel about it. Foreign tourists, food joints, accommodation of different categories, good food.

The next destination southwards is Yala, one of the country’s best national parks which is said to have the largest density of leopards in the world. Yala national park has a protected area of 978 square kms   and is home to 44 varieties of mammals and 215 species of birds. Wild elephants roam the road adding to the charm of the Park which has a surreal combination of a breathtaking beach and jungle lands. The organized safaris at Yala operate twice a day. From Yala it’s back to Colombo.

On the way to Colombo one passes several quaint beach towns like Mirissa, Galle and Bentota. Mirissa is known for exhilarating whale sightings from November to April. Again hotel options range from budget to luxury. Further on one should take a short stop over at Galle. This fortified city was built by the Dutch in 1588 but fortified by the Portuguese in the 17^th century, is Asia’s largest standing fortress built by the Europeans. The fort city has a character of its own with colonial architecture, cobblestoned pavements, swanky shops, quaint restaurants, a pretty lighthouse and numerous monitor lizards.  Galle is also home to the Galle International Stadium which is considered one of the most picturesque stadiums in the world. Devastated by the 2004 tsunami, Galle has regained its glory and beauty.

The last stop of the trip is Colombo, the country capital which has something for everyone. Shopping, Casinos, restaurants, distinctive buildings like the Independence memorial hall, the Viramahadevi Park  and temples like the famed Gangaramaya Buddhist temple and the Hindu temple – Kailawasanathan Swami Devasthanam Kovil. Evenings see tourists visit Galle face green, an urban park on the sea face extending up to 500 meters.  Colombo is connected to other parts of the country by trains as well as buses. The bustling city is getting even busier with skyscrapers and other commercial developments, a contrast to the rest of the quiet and relatively less busy east coast.

There is something special about Sri Lanka apart from its tea and that’s its people. The simplicity of the people and vibrancy of their smiles runs through the country. The colours of the sea and the lovely green expanse radiate serenity. With speed limits on the highway set at a maximum of 70 kmph for cars and buses, you are sure to look out of the window and learn to see again. Due to its long civil conflict, Sri Lanka was not always a tourist destination but today it enchants its visitors, making them promise to return again.

Eminent Senior Artist Vinod Shah’s recent retrospective exhibition held at the Sarjan Art Gallery, Vadodara (From 24th Sept. to 15th Oct.) was a visual treat for the viewers.

Country landscapes, urban scapes in light pinks and several tones of blue with pencil drawings, touches of brush strokes were sensitive renderings of abstract art.

Forms of women set in rural landscape as well as the city home interiors were presented with utmost grace. Still life and architectural forms were simple visuals seen composed in magical, serene and quietly exuberent colours. A rich aura of lyricism dominated all the visuals.

Speaking about Vinod Shah’s works Late eminent artist Shri K.G. Subramanyan said “A kind of fluid poetry is the hallmark of Vinod Shah’s paintings. It alters the characters of whatever media he puts to work. It also reorders the anatomy of whatever subject of theme he works around”

Another senior artist, Prof. Jyoti Bhatt said :

“Vinod Shah has worked using various mediums including serigraphy, oils and collage in which he has often used three dimensional forms. But his real forte is the transparent and translucent water soluble mediums, namely water colour and acrylic paints”.

Eminent Artist N.S. Bendre used to be Vinod Shah’s teacher at the Faculty of Fine Arts in Baroda. He once asked his students to define a good work of art. No one could answer this question. Prof. bendre then answered his own question.

He said ‘What happens when one throws a pebble in a still lake? Ripples are created in the water and that is exactly what should happen when you look at a good work of art. There should be ripples of joy created in your heart.’ This is exactly happens when one looks at Vinod Shah’s works. There are ripples of joy created in one’s heart and much more, as arresting visuals linger on in one’s memory forever.

There is always something different about Sundays. I feel Sundays carry an air of luxurious leisure, a holiday mood builds up and fills one’s heart with renewed energy and zest. I remember one such Sunday in 2010. I was in my Lakeland home, near Tempa in Florida. That Saturday I missed my childhood friend Rima Sen, who had gone to visit her Uncle in Orlando. Those days both Rima and I were applying for jobs after our post graduation in economics. Rima had also finished her M.B.A. Somehow thinking about Rima’s lovely face and our future together I had fallen asleep.

Next morning when I opened my eyes I got up and walked towards our front garden. I noticed a large American squirrel disappear in the bushes. We had only one large old oak tree, two young apple trees and tulsi shrubs creating a border of sorts. The two flower beds had white and yellow chrysanthemums in full bloom. Suddenly I noticed the Sunday times newspaper lying on the front steps.

After a quick shower, when I walked into our drawing room. I found my grandmother’s photograph had a new garland of fresh flowers. The constant chant of Gayatri Mantra filled the room. Aroma of sandalwood ‘Agarbatti’ and a lamp or ‘diva’ was lit near the photograph. I then realized it was my Grandmother’s birthday.

I found my Dad sitting on the sofa staring at his mother’s (My Grandmother’s) photograph with tearful eyes. I realized, he had the same sharp features as my Grandmother in the photograph.

I looked at my mother, who walked in with a tray, full of three teacups. She beamed in her new blue satin Hongkong gown with a floral print. Mom has a grand presence and a proud look, unlike my Dad who has a humble look, who loves his modest Kolhapuri chappals, Khadi Kurta Pyjama and home made ghee.

My mom is very fair, pleasantly plump with a sharp tongue and piercing black eyes. She is very proud of her new Hongkong gown, diamond earrings and hush puppies slippers. She always looks well groomed and stylish in her branded clothes. Dad’s education, a good job and good looks had given him a pretty and rich bride from Mumbai. As a couple Mom and Dad are very different from each other but they have a successful arranged marriage. Dad continues loving old Hindi movie songs & Ganga Sati Bhajans while Mom loves to see new movies and do shopping, loves imported perfumes & branded clothes.

Sweet smells of morning nashta like, ‘muthia’ or ‘thepla’ when pervades the house, it sets our appetite on fire. Mom is a fabulous cook so usually on Sunday mornings. Mom would often scold us, she would say in a annoyed tone, ‘You two get up and get going instead of lolling around’ Dad would look at her, amused and often say “A school teacher is always a school teacher!” and laugh. Then we would all laugh. But this Sunday everything was different. Mom was not her chirpy self, she was quiet and lost in deep thought.

Yes, my mom had taught Maths in a school before she got married. She always looked for harmony, order and perfection. Like a typical school teacher she overvalued discipline while my Dad and I are basically tree spirits.

I looked at Dad and said ‘I don’t remember ‘Daadi’, tell me something about her ‘Dad looked at me said ‘Your Daadi’ was one in a million. She was great. We are all here today and its all because of her.

Then Dad said “My Father, meaning your Grandfather Jayantbhai was a small time bootlegger who sold both Desi and English Daaru (liquor). He was very smart and bright. He knew how to handle the hi-fi customers. He also knew some English. As his own Father that is my Grandfather died early of a heart attack, he had to unfortunately leave school, So he took over the liquour business which flourished many fold, So we bought a new house. But Madhavkaka who was our neighbour got jealous and got him murdered. I was shocked to hear these words! then Dad said, “I remember it was a Diwali night and someone from our basti identified his body on the road near the bridge. It was a horrible night, the police arrived and there was utter shock and chaos around. Your Grandmother fainted with grief. As days passed, she seemed to have calmed down but silently wept most of the time. After a few days, after all the rituals were over and all relatives had left us. One night while serving dinner to us, Maa suddenly declared, “We are leaving this wretched place forever” I was shocked. “Where are we going?” I asked ‘And Maa, what about the revenge? We all know who did it’ I said and waited for her reply. She thought for a moment and then said. ‘Hitesh beta you and Jiga (Jignesh) listen to me. What do we attain by revenge? Are we criminals like them? Will your father come back? Their people may then kill me. The police might send them to jail but if I am no more what happen’s to both of you? No-no! We will not get into this useless revenge chakkar (cycle) We will just leave this place and start a new life’. I was stunned by her words. I was twelve years old and Jiga was only five then. But I had understood every word of what Maa had said and knew she was right. I waited for her words. Slowly, she said’ We are going to Nizampura near your Gopal Mama’s (uncle’s) house. I have already talked to him. He has found a room on rent for us. Everything is settled. I’m going to work as a cook at his Narayan Sheth’s bungalow. Your Gopal mama has fixed that job for me. As you know your Gopalmama and your Surajmami live in Narayan Sheth’s out house. He works there as their driver and he say they are nice and kind people she added.

We have to get out from this disgusting place with drunken fools and murderers, living all around us! Mom you’re absolutely right ‘I said to her, even though I did feel a bit sad about leaving my friends in the old basti. I now remember my Gopal Mama was a simple soul, a bit vain about his good looks, very proud of his broken English and forover smiling and combing his hair, but very honest, hardworking and totally devoted to Narayan Sheth’s family. Even Sheth’s wife Kokilaben liked Gopal mama and Suraj Mami. Their son Mukeshbhai and daughter Kinjalben too were very fond of us. They would get new kites for us every year and would always let us watch their T.V. in their house.

Gopal Mama’s wife was short tempered, buxom young attractive woman. She was a nonstop talker. Every evening she sold flowers near the Amba Mata temple. Being childless, She showered us with all her love, but maintained a respectful distance from my Maa. Much later after many years they had a daughter and a son. We children thought Suraj Mami had a heart of gold.

“How did Grandmother die” I asked Dad, “She was knocked down by a govt. bus near Dakore. She used to visit Dakore on  every “Poonam” for Darshan of the Lord Ranchodji and pray for us.” Dad answered my question with a sad, wistful look in his eyes. Then he spoke again he said “Later when I started working after I finished my law studies. Narayan Sheth’s son Mukeshbhai had helped us with the immigration papers. Shethji gave us money for travel. We also sold off the house built by your Grandfather as Maa was no more. We had six months left for us to leave for U.S.A. when suddenly we received compensation money from the govt. as it was accidental death in your grandmother’s case. Your Mom very wisely bought some gold and kept aside some money for Jiga’s education who was in first year of college and now we are here” said Dad and fell silent.

I thought about our life near Gopal Mama’s house in India. I remembered how we often played in Narayan Sheth’s back verandah and did our home work there while Maa cooked in their kitchen. I did little jobs for Shethani like carrying her clothes for istri (ironing) getting Calcutti Pan for her, bringing in the morning newspapers etc. I even did the early morning job of distributing newspapers in different areas to help Maa. Jiga helped me sometimes but played most of the time and was full of pranks and was always caught plucking fruits from Narayan Sheth’s garden. But Jiga was always forgiven as he took great care of Shethani’s Dog ‘Tiger’ who was a handsome German Shepherd Dog and apple of her eye. Even though Tiger was a good natured, gentle giant most people outside were scared of him. Now when I think of our life there I realize that our life had really changed for better then what it had been, in our old basti.

Then Dad spoke again he said ‘Maa often said that she was proud of us. But few mothers do what she did for us. Without any formal education she struggled to give us a good life. Gopal Mama too helped us and together they bravely carved a new path for us. She was going to join us here after a month but she was gone forever. Even after her death she left a gift for us……..that compensation money……….and he could not speak further. Now Dad had tears streaming down his cheeks. I had never seen my Dad crying like this, and I sat shaken inside and I realized that I was dying to tell all this to Rima when, I would meet her the next day when she would return from Orlando.

- Sumati Gangopadhyay