Category: Travel & Deal

Arati Desai

First political unrest and then the tsunami, Sri Lanka has been ravaged over the years yet, there is a sense of peace and fortitude that prevails over this small island. For the regular traveller neighbouring countries are an obvious choice for a holiday. Sri Lanka occupies a soft spot in the hearts of many an Indian   traveller, who opt not only for its proximity and easy accessibility but also for the old world charm the country has retained.

The famous circuit of the Sri Lankan holiday normally covers Colombo, Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, Ella and Galle but there is so much more to this quaint country. Being an island makes it an all around the year destination. Yes, there are 2 monsoons but one for each coast, so in the Indian summer months of May and June, the east coast of Sri Lanka is the perfect holiday destination. Eastern Sri Lanka surprises with its diverse experiences – heritage, cultural experiences, world heritage sites, beautiful beaches, wildlife and surf waves.

Starting from Colombo, head straight to Dumbulla.  Dumbulla’s famed rock cave temple complex is       Sri Lanka’s largest and most well preserved temple complex. Five separate caves dating back to the 1^st century BC hold 150 Buddhist statues and paintings which are 2000 years ago. These caves bear a spiritual atmosphere which is enhanced by many epochs of Sinhala sculpture and Sinhala art, marking one of the many memorable experiences in the country.

The next day visit the ancient rock fortress Sigiriya, perched on a 200 meter tall rock plateau. Sigiriya, the lion rock, a world heritage site is truly an architectural marvel. Some of the unique features of this 5^th century fortress complex includes remains of a king’s palace, surrounded by an extensive network of fortifications, vast landscaped gardens, ponds, canals, alleys and fountains. While it served as a monastery since the 3^rd century till the 5^th century, King Kashyapa converted it into his royal residence  and it remained so for 13 years (473- 496 AD) till he died. Thereafter it returned to being a monastery till the 14^th century when it was abandoned. Apart from its splendid architecture, Sigiriya is also known for its amazing frescos dating back to till date to the 7^th-8^th century. Of these delicately painted frescos 18 are still visible. Tourists have been visiting this monumental site since hundreds of years and continue to even more so today.

Heading to the north of Sri Lanka, drive 100 kms to Trincomalee. The city, recovering from several years of civil war which ended in 2009, is now accessible to tourists. The population is a diverse mix of Sinhalese, Tamils and Muslims. The coastal beach town of Nilaveli is a popular tourist destination peppered with several resorts and cafes. There is a lot to do here like Snorkeling on Pigeon Island, whale watching (from March to August)   and a visit to the historic Koneswaram Temple. Remnants of Tricomalee’s violent past can be seen in the war memorials. One of the most beautiful is ‘The Trincomalee War Cemetery’ which honours the British and French soldiers that fought to win this natural harbor.

From Trincomalee, leave for Arugam Bay via Passikudah. ‘Passikudah’ means green algae beach and its beach is so pristine that you feel you are in a different world all together. With hardly any hotels and even lesser tourists at this beach, it is the perfect place for solitude seekers who need just the ocean and a good book. Offering an extended shallow coastline, the beach is perfect for shallow swimming.

Arugam Bay in itself has a whole lot to explore, be it the Panama beach, the crocodile groves or the Kumana National Park or the surf waves. You will find Aussies, Germans and even Israelis coming to surf here. This leads to a great number of hotels and restaurants offering western options as well as traditional Srilankan Cuisine. You can find the best pizza in Sri Lanka over here. Arugam Bay has a sort of Goan feel about it. Foreign tourists, food joints, accommodation of different categories, good food.

The next destination southwards is Yala, one of the country’s best national parks which is said to have the largest density of leopards in the world. Yala national park has a protected area of 978 square kms   and is home to 44 varieties of mammals and 215 species of birds. Wild elephants roam the road adding to the charm of the Park which has a surreal combination of a breathtaking beach and jungle lands. The organized safaris at Yala operate twice a day. From Yala it’s back to Colombo.

On the way to Colombo one passes several quaint beach towns like Mirissa, Galle and Bentota. Mirissa is known for exhilarating whale sightings from November to April. Again hotel options range from budget to luxury. Further on one should take a short stop over at Galle. This fortified city was built by the Dutch in 1588 but fortified by the Portuguese in the 17^th century, is Asia’s largest standing fortress built by the Europeans. The fort city has a character of its own with colonial architecture, cobblestoned pavements, swanky shops, quaint restaurants, a pretty lighthouse and numerous monitor lizards.  Galle is also home to the Galle International Stadium which is considered one of the most picturesque stadiums in the world. Devastated by the 2004 tsunami, Galle has regained its glory and beauty.

The last stop of the trip is Colombo, the country capital which has something for everyone. Shopping, Casinos, restaurants, distinctive buildings like the Independence memorial hall, the Viramahadevi Park  and temples like the famed Gangaramaya Buddhist temple and the Hindu temple – Kailawasanathan Swami Devasthanam Kovil. Evenings see tourists visit Galle face green, an urban park on the sea face extending up to 500 meters.  Colombo is connected to other parts of the country by trains as well as buses. The bustling city is getting even busier with skyscrapers and other commercial developments, a contrast to the rest of the quiet and relatively less busy east coast.

There is something special about Sri Lanka apart from its tea and that’s its people. The simplicity of the people and vibrancy of their smiles runs through the country. The colours of the sea and the lovely green expanse radiate serenity. With speed limits on the highway set at a maximum of 70 kmph for cars and buses, you are sure to look out of the window and learn to see again. Due to its long civil conflict, Sri Lanka was not always a tourist destination but today it enchants its visitors, making them promise to return again.

It has been truly a cosmetic transformation for Bangalore , now Bengaluru-  langas and chaddis to lehengas and shorts ,rava idlis and masala dosas  to pastas and pizzas, by-two coffees to one pint beer – garden city to pub city! And, interestingly, the charm of the old remains somewhere within the new too.

Bengaluru has something to offer for the varying tastes of the tourist- heritage walks around the avenues where the stately buildings proudly stand in their magnificence, beautiful parks, botanical gardens, temples, palaces, and monuments, hotels, big and small. But what is unique to the metro is the concept of micro-breweries and vineyards, where wine tours are conducted.

During my recent visit to the city, I was whisked away to a micro-brewery located in Indiranagar. I was amused by the name of the place- Toit.  Micro breweries as the name suggests are breweries where limited quantities of beer are produced, typically for consumption on their own premises.  Traditionally, big breweries took decisions over the flavour and the taste of the beer, and had a common pale coloured beer bottled up to be consumed. But as taste buds got more adventurous, and ideas floated around, small breweries slowly began to figure on the map catering to the tastes of their loyal clients so much so that micro breweries seem to encourage a signature style- like artists with their own loyal clients. Micro breweries made ‘bottled’ beer seem less fashionable, because here, beer would be brewed fresh, and each of the breweries prided on making their beer with natural ingredients and using unique and exotic flavours- rice, fruits wheat, or spices.

A quaint looking place with a wooden look about it, and as you walked in, you had to adjust your eyes to the semi-darkness of the place. Dim lights, comfortable sofas that you could lounge in and find it difficult to get up later, either because they were either too low, or you had one drink too many! Not so narrow stairs transported you to two floors of the pub that can seat 400-500 guests. Weekends of course were  the  most crowded. We realized we had arrived at the perfect time because we managed to get the last of the comfortable seaters, rather than being stuck with a high bar stool, which could well land you hard on the ground if you got a little too high!

The place had a Western look about it and one expected a cowboy to suddenly turn up. Long benches, stools shared the floor space with tall copper boilers which were used to brew the beer every day. I had difficulty reading from the menu (thanks to the dim lighting), and so I was assisted by my friends. Since I was a first timer, it was suggested that I try their sample tray, consisting of 6 different flavours-from light to strong, each with its own distinct aroma and flavour. Their food was good too: though the onion rings left much to be desired, the paneer marinated in spices was soft and delicious. The pizza and pasta were great for our taste buds too. The coasters had the most beautifully crafted beery messages!

Toit not only had a beautiful ambience, but made it an educative experience too. At the entrance were framed posters that enlightened us about beer making-“It takes four to tango-malt, hops, yeast and water.”And then the process of brewing (mashing, fermentation and so on) was explained in detail for anyone who wanted to know, besides just wanting to get high on beer! Besides the dim lighting, there was loud music, and layers of voices drifting from across tables from all sides and levels. Posters made from works of great Masters, Mona Lisa and the Scream were among the works that adorned the place. It was definitely aimed at drawing the younger crowd, but when you love beer, what has age to do with it? After a few rounds of beer, the loud music didn’t seem so loud after all, and each of the guests were totally oblivious of the decibel level from the neighbouring tables. We savoured the aroma, and breathed in the fragrance that invaded down our senses prompting us to pamper our throats.

Toit was the perfect place to unwind. All through the week, sometimes we are left feeling like a coil highly strung…too wound up. The minute you take the glass to your lips, the nostrils dictate the next move. Slowly and magically, you are ready to savour the journey, and the beer feels ever so refreshing, calming the nerves and I began to feel light headed too. The noise no longer bothered and I was already savouring every moment of it.  It was pouring away as we hailed an auto, but even the weather couldn’t dampen our spirits and the magic that we had just experienced.

We really didn’t keep track of time, and we glided down the stairs with ease as we walked out of Toit.  The Collins English Dictionary :   Toit  – ‘to walk or move in an unsteady manner (as from old age).’ It seemed to me then that it was the perfect name .

Hema Iyer Ramani