Author: admin

Md. Masarrath Ali Khan

Those are the early hours of a breezy morning and there is a thick fog all around. Armed with cameras, many tourists are silently marching towards the camel grounds. The caravans of camels have majestically ambled their way through the golden sands and converged at the sand dunes.  Their owners – dressed in soiled white attire, capped by bright colorful turbans and sporting big moustache – squat in circles sharing stories and warming over small orange bonfires, while the moon and the stars create a canopy of heavenly illumination above them.

As the morning sun of Prabodhini Ekadashi dusts the sands with gold and thin layers of mist peel away, the landscape undergoes a time warp. Some traders light up a small fire in sand and make tea from camel’s milk in brass vessels, while their womenfolk take the camels to the water tank. The camel-pulled carts surmounted with red, pink and green canopies start moving in a file to the town to fetch tourists for the day.

Far away, two hot air balloons rise in the air, drift over and disappear from sight.  The aroma of fresh roses, the fragrance of incense sticks and the mellifluous sounds of temple bells – all seem to weave magic. You are transported into a different world.

This is Pushkar Camel Fair that draws huge crowds of tourists from all parts of the world. It has a magnetism of its own that defies description. It is like travelling back a hundred years in time. Though camels are an integral part of the celebrations, the fair is more about the joys of self discovery, rejuvenation and revelling in the small pleasures of life.  You get to see innocent beautiful and radiant smiling faces, all diffused in a romantic burst of colours. Brightly turbaned men with impressive moustaches and womenfolk in vibrantly coloured lehengas and odhnis lend a majestic air to the fair. Village girls in intricately embroidered, swirling skirts, can be seen pulling the ghunghat (veil) spontaneously over their faces at the first sight of a stranger!

The fair is a rich blend of trading, commercial activities, social gatherings, fun and frolic, music, songs, folk dances, play and amusement, cultural performances, religious rituals and pilgrimage to the temples, all distinct yet thinly overlapping over each other in perfect symphony!

It all starts 3-4 days after Diwali, with the camel traders arriving and setting up camps at the sand dunes. Lively trading of camels takes place. During the next couple of days, livestock and their traders continue to flock into Pushkar as the sand dunes get overcrowded with animals.

Matka race, turban tying competition, acrobat shows, tight rope balancing acts by young girls, snake and mongoose fights, draw huge crowds in the morning hours at the fair ground.

Pushkar is one place where man-animal relationship acquires a new meaning. The camels are lovingly sheared, scrubbed, washed and perfumed. Symbolic hair motifs called moondra are carved onto the fur. Tattoos are stamped on their sheared skins using black henna and heated ladles. Then they are bedecked in their best finery, silver bells and silver jewellery for the beauty contest! Tourists also enjoy the camel dance competition to their heart’s content.

The huge area around the fairground transforms into a shopper’s paradise. Traders set up stalls selling virtually everything….. Odhnis, ghagras, leharia fabrics, embroidered shawls, clothes embedded with mirrors, lovely colourful bangles…. the list is endless! And if tourists enjoy going on a shopping spree, can the camels be far behind? There are a series of shops which sell items ranging from saddle straps, saddles, beads, strings and cowries exclusively for decorating the camels!

Colorfully dressed pilgrims, sadhus and saints begin to gather in the many temples and ghats all around and the town gets drenched in a religious flavour.  Just as Brahma performed yagna at the Pushkar Lake from Kartik Shukla Ekadashi to Kartik Purnima, so also millions of pilgrims perform a Kartik Snan in the lake during this period, mainly on the full moon night.  Then they pay a visit to the Brahma Temple. The festival comes to an end after the Kartik Purnima.

—————————————————————————————————-

Legend and history

Lord Brahma slew a cruel demon Vajranabha with his weapon – the lotus flower, which fell and struck the earth at three places within a radius of 9 kms, creating three lakes. Brahma named the place Pushkar (=lotus), and the lakes, Jyeshtha (elder), Madhya (central) and Kanishtha (younger) Pushkar. Then Brahma performed yagna at the Pushkar Sarovar from Kartik Shukla Ekadashi to Kartik Purnima. So, an annual festival is celebrated in honour of Brahma. This coincides with the camel fair.

Legend apart, the antiquity of Pushkar and its environs goes back several millennia. The great Hindu epics Mahabharata and Ramayana call it the Adi Tirtha (King of pilgrimages).The Vedas and Puranas, record that Rishi Vyas undertook penance at Pushkar and Shri Balram visited Pushkar more than 5000 years ago. The Harivansha Purana says that Lord Krishna spent some time here. The Ramayana mentions that the sage Vishwamitra performed penance (tapa) here and the celestial enchantress Menaka came to bathe in its serene waters. Kalidasa immortalized Pushkar in his classic Abhijñâna Sâkuntalam. Historical works like Prithviraj Vijay (by Jayanaka); Hammir Mahakavya (by Nayachandra Suri), and Surjan Charitra (by Chandrashekhara), suggest that an ancestor of the Chauhan dynasty Rishiraj Shri Chahaman, was born in Pushkar. The Chauhan queen Rudrani, also known as Atma Prabha used to light 1000 lamps daily before the Shivalinga at Pushkar. One of the first contacts between the Mughal and the British took place in

Pushkar when Sir Thomas Roe met Emperor Jahangir in 1616 AD.

The Pushkar Sarovar (lake)

There are 52 holy ghats (lakefronts) around the holy Sarovar. It is believed that the Nag Kund cures infertility, the Roop Tirth Kund enhances beauty, and the water of Kapil Vyapi Kund cures leprosy while a dip in the Mrikand Muni Kund grants the boon of wisdom!  Brahma Temple is the star attraction of Pushkar.

 Northeast India a joint Food HUB

September 18, 2020

LODAMA THE TASTE OF DIMASA

LODAMA IS BASICALLY CALLED AS SILKWORM PUPAE WHICH IS THE MOST POPULAR DISH IN MANY PARTS OF ASSAM AS WELL AS DIMAPUR (NAGALAND).THIS DISH IS MOSTLY SAVOURED BY THE DIMASA TRIBE WHICH THEY OFFENTLY SERVE IT WITH A DRINK CALLED JUDIMA ( IT IS A PARTICULAR TYPE OF RICE WINE).

P.S To know about this beverage judima you have to wait for my next blog.

THE DIMASA PEOPLE ARE VERY MUCH FOND WITH THEIR CULINARIES, THEY ARE ALSO CALLED AS (DIMA-BASA OR DIMASA KACHARI). THIS PARTICULAR TRIBE IS AN INDIGENOUS ETHNOLINGUISTIC. THIS COMMUNITY PRESENTLY INHABITS PEOPLE OF ASSAM AND NAGALAND STATES OF THE NORTHEASTERN INDIA. (SOURCE: HTTP://WIKIPEDIA)

THERE IS QUITE A SIMILARITY BETWEEN DIMASA CUISINES AND ASSAMESE CUISINES. THE USE OF KHARI AND OTHER INGREDIENTS ARE VERY ENTICING. USE OF SEVERAL INDIGENOUS HERBS, VEGETABLES, SPICES, FISH AND ANIMAL MEAT TOGETHER CREATES SOME MOUTHWATERING DISHES.

ABOUT THE DISH   :

LODAMA IS BASICALLY STEAMED OR BOILED SILKWORM PUPAE WHICH ARE SEASONED AND EATEN AS A SNACK. IT IS MUST TO BOIL THE SILKWORM BEFORE SERVING.

INGREDIENTS:

1. Mustard oil 2 tbsp
2. Garlic 2 cloves
3. Ginger finely chopped.
4. Turmeric 1 tbsp
5. Chilies (both red and green).
6. Onions 3-4.
7. Silkworm pupae (which is termed to be the main ingredient here).
8. Salt 1 tbsp

PREPARATION:

1. Boiling of the raw silkworm pupae is required for about 30 minutes
2. Removing the outer skin of the silkworm.
3. Put the pan over the gas and add some mustard oil.
4. Add turmeric, garlic, chilies, onions and ginger to the oil and stir fry it.
5. When the onions and garlic starts to get light brown add the pupae into it.
6. Stir fry it for at least 2-3 minutes.
7. Finally add some salt according to taste.

THE TASTE OF SILKWORM CAN SIMPLY BE DESCRIBED AS SLIGHTLY FISHY AND BUTTERY AFTER TASTE. THIS LITTLE TASTY SNACK HAS PROVED TO BE ONE OF THE MOST LIKEABLE DISHES NOT ONLY IN NORTHEAST INDIA BUT ALSO ALL OVER ASIA.

FACTS: The first silkworm was consumed by the Empress of China Xi Ling Shi when she discovered a cocoon thread in her cup of tea. In China and Vietnam, silkworms are fried and are very common delicacy. Even Koreans found it interesting when they first had cocoon as edible item now they describe this particular dish as (Peondegi).

(source: http://theguardian.com )

For certain individuals, food is only a need to gratify their basic needs; for the others, however, food is something beyond a fundamental need, yet a joy that assumes a huge part in their comprehension of bliss. There is an ample number of cuisines and food inclinations worked by cultural foundations, topographical areas, and social classes. Food and mainstream meals can disclose to us a great deal about the history and conventions of different countries and locales. But the question is, what did our food resemble many years prior? In a time where no technology and social media existed, how would we know what our progenitors ate? The most appropriate response carries us down the lane of texts, communication the most enchanting form of knowing almost anything and everything, Art. Compositions down the ages have helped us give a brief look at what our eating table resembled. And a common love for food and art in today’s world has resulted in the mouth-watering and captivating portrayal of food that in some way or another characterizes an individual, his/her encounters, and experiences. Artists are bridging the gap between a mere drawing and the actual form and presence of the food with the hyper-realistic images of it. One often gets astonished upon an encounter with the works of Sarasvathy TK, whose paintings invite the viewers to indulge them and have a visual treat.

An artist from Chennai, India living in New Jersey, US, Sarasvathy’s immaculate renditions of Indian food connects with the viewer instantly. But her story is full of turns and twists and discoveries within the self. A Computer Science engineer at an early stage of her life, Sarasvathy was inclined towards the field of art from the very beginning and she realized that the same meticulousness, precision that was required in engineering could be very beneficial for her dedication to art. Her visit to the Louvre Museum in 2007 impacted her deeply. In 2008, a possible discussion with her significant other, Nagaraju Palivela, at an art show in Singapore, caused her to acknowledge the amount she adored workmanship and she quit her place of employment to dedicate all her time and opportunity to drawing and painting. She discovered motivation in Dutch still-life artistic creations from the Baroque time frame and painted a few still life works.

For years, this self-taught artist dabbled in various genres before Google introduced her to hyperrealism in 2015. The works of artists Tjalf Sparnaay and Mary Ellen Johnson fascinated her with their food paintings, in hyperrealist and mega realistic style. The intricate detail, the play of light, and the expansive view of objects as if magnified manifold, created a lasting impression. This led her to explore food as a motif and resulted in the current series, where she focuses on a plethora of Indian foods, specific to various regions across the country. She became passionate about depicting the wealth of traditional foods from different regions of India to highlight the social and ethnic significance of Indian cuisine and its diversity. The multifaceted detail, the play of light, and farreaching perspective on objects as though amplified complex, made an enduring impression on her mind which in result drove her to investigate food as a theme and content for her work. Soon she discovered that Indian food was very little investigated in this specific field hence, her excursion began. She believes that food always assumes a focal function in each culture, around the world, and what one cooks and consumes somehow represents one’s identity and origin. Her art originates from a love for Indian cuisines that invoke emotions and memories related to the image of the food and heighten all associated sensations. She finds that artworks representing Indian food are uncommon and rare in comparison to its popularity as a cuisine. Her paintings, hence, structure another approach to making social interfaces and accounts around Indian food and related narratives, both individual and natural. She paints on thrice-primed linen which lends life to the paintings because of its smoothness. Her paintings take so much time, patience and skill, for the texture to show up in the most real form. When zoomed in, the painting has hundreds and thousands of holes and lines that come together to finally combine up to a large enchanting and mouthwatering piece of work.

Sarasvathy’s adoration and energy for hyperrealism have landed her in different eminent displays and shows. She got an opportunity to exhibit her painting titled “Idli, Sambar and Coconut Chutney” at the “Cultural Heritage show WWAC ” New Jersey where her painting was also featured on the show’s invites. This followed her to her first museum exhibiting opportunity, as “Dosa and Sambar” was juried into “Salmagundi” an 1871 world-renowned Art gallery of New York whose members include Thomas Moran, Louis Comfort Tiffany, etc. She was also honored with membership by the “International Guild of Realism, US for her third series of the painting titled, “Samosa, Tamarind Chutney, and Coriander Chutney”. This was published in the April subscription of ‘American Art Collector’ April 2020 magazine which was a dream come true for the artist. Her fourth series “Garlic, Naan, and Coriander” also made her proud as she received an Award of Merit from the “American Women Artists Association”. On ‘World Idli Day’ which falls on March 30th, Sarasvathy delivered 22 customized US postage stamps of her painting ‘Idli Sambar and Coconut chutney’ as a recognition for all the food aficionados and her affection for the hyper realistic portrayal of craftsmanship. This was very much valued and appreciated by the art world alongside inclusion in ‘The Hindu Business line’. She is now preparing 11 works under her project titled ‘Bhojan’ for a solo exhibition in New York next year.

Food and recipes through generations have been preserved and kept alive with the help of knowledge and art. Sarasvathy’s journey not only waters and nourishes her passion for art but on the same hand opens up new gates for people to either indulge in Indian food or get carried away by the sweet memories of it. The amount of work and the detailed output covering color, texture, shape, condiments, magnitude, and depth in each painting shows her excellence and mastery in the field of hyper-realistic art. Through awe-inspiring manual dexterity and prowess, Sarasvathy creates a tangible solidity and physical presence. The details carry more clarity than in nature, thus providing us with an enhanced view of reality. Art hides both in the creative process and the finalized work, and the creative process of Hyperrealism is one of the most intricate ones in art. Sarasvathy’s work leaves the viewer with an ultimate stimulation and one of a kind of experience.

Pranamita Borgohain

I am Abhishek Singh, a photographer from New Delhi, capital of India. Driven by curiosity and wonder, my photography focuses on ordinary interaction of people, their life, struggle, survival and their urban/rural environment. Exploring and documenting the human condition – one moment at a time. In my images, I try to blend out the noise of today’s increasingly fast-moving world and extract the beautiful moments of everyday life that often go unnoticed.

In my street photography project, I attempted to chronicle life cycles with a universal approach: noticing all parts of life working together as time passes us by. I started looking at the bigger picture in an even bigger way: I began to look at human life and activities.

At first, my perspective absorbed daily routine of people living in old Delhi and various parts of NCR. Those who are involved in waste management, street hawking, roadside food vendors, hustle and bustle and bustle of rush hours. From this I began to see the sheer contrast in the design of Old Delhi and other parts of NCR itself.

Never before had I noticed such a beautiful homogenizing of kids, youth and aged as well as animals on the city streets , side-by-side going about  their various daily routine without so much as a second glance. What seemed most intriguing was the vast similarity of the facial expressions of all of these people as well as animal kind could be. Nearly identical  in instances of joy, sorrow, curiosity, anger and pain could be seen on the faces of these people that I had never even seen before, people I would likely never see ever again and understand their purpose behind their various expressions.

The most interesting part of my project was that I was able to come to life from seeing the different beings in the crowd for those short moments. I stopped when everyone moved around. I moved when everyone stopped. Through my lens, I could find hidden meanings of so many little things that we disregard each day. It was the significance of recovering our composure in our busy lives. In order to keep ourselves conscious of changes, we should be conscious of our surroundings first. This is the new definition of the city life that I could derive from my photography project.

Sometimes, we get lost in the flurry of life. Things are born, things happen in between, and then things are gone .But how often is this all thought about as a whole? People either dwell on the past, enjoy the present, or plan relentlessly for the future.

Arati Desai

First political unrest and then the tsunami, Sri Lanka has been ravaged over the years yet, there is a sense of peace and fortitude that prevails over this small island. For the regular traveller neighbouring countries are an obvious choice for a holiday. Sri Lanka occupies a soft spot in the hearts of many an Indian   traveller, who opt not only for its proximity and easy accessibility but also for the old world charm the country has retained.

The famous circuit of the Sri Lankan holiday normally covers Colombo, Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, Ella and Galle but there is so much more to this quaint country. Being an island makes it an all around the year destination. Yes, there are 2 monsoons but one for each coast, so in the Indian summer months of May and June, the east coast of Sri Lanka is the perfect holiday destination. Eastern Sri Lanka surprises with its diverse experiences – heritage, cultural experiences, world heritage sites, beautiful beaches, wildlife and surf waves.

Starting from Colombo, head straight to Dumbulla.  Dumbulla’s famed rock cave temple complex is       Sri Lanka’s largest and most well preserved temple complex. Five separate caves dating back to the 1^st century BC hold 150 Buddhist statues and paintings which are 2000 years ago. These caves bear a spiritual atmosphere which is enhanced by many epochs of Sinhala sculpture and Sinhala art, marking one of the many memorable experiences in the country.

The next day visit the ancient rock fortress Sigiriya, perched on a 200 meter tall rock plateau. Sigiriya, the lion rock, a world heritage site is truly an architectural marvel. Some of the unique features of this 5^th century fortress complex includes remains of a king’s palace, surrounded by an extensive network of fortifications, vast landscaped gardens, ponds, canals, alleys and fountains. While it served as a monastery since the 3^rd century till the 5^th century, King Kashyapa converted it into his royal residence  and it remained so for 13 years (473- 496 AD) till he died. Thereafter it returned to being a monastery till the 14^th century when it was abandoned. Apart from its splendid architecture, Sigiriya is also known for its amazing frescos dating back to till date to the 7^th-8^th century. Of these delicately painted frescos 18 are still visible. Tourists have been visiting this monumental site since hundreds of years and continue to even more so today.

Heading to the north of Sri Lanka, drive 100 kms to Trincomalee. The city, recovering from several years of civil war which ended in 2009, is now accessible to tourists. The population is a diverse mix of Sinhalese, Tamils and Muslims. The coastal beach town of Nilaveli is a popular tourist destination peppered with several resorts and cafes. There is a lot to do here like Snorkeling on Pigeon Island, whale watching (from March to August)   and a visit to the historic Koneswaram Temple. Remnants of Tricomalee’s violent past can be seen in the war memorials. One of the most beautiful is ‘The Trincomalee War Cemetery’ which honours the British and French soldiers that fought to win this natural harbor.

From Trincomalee, leave for Arugam Bay via Passikudah. ‘Passikudah’ means green algae beach and its beach is so pristine that you feel you are in a different world all together. With hardly any hotels and even lesser tourists at this beach, it is the perfect place for solitude seekers who need just the ocean and a good book. Offering an extended shallow coastline, the beach is perfect for shallow swimming.

Arugam Bay in itself has a whole lot to explore, be it the Panama beach, the crocodile groves or the Kumana National Park or the surf waves. You will find Aussies, Germans and even Israelis coming to surf here. This leads to a great number of hotels and restaurants offering western options as well as traditional Srilankan Cuisine. You can find the best pizza in Sri Lanka over here. Arugam Bay has a sort of Goan feel about it. Foreign tourists, food joints, accommodation of different categories, good food.

The next destination southwards is Yala, one of the country’s best national parks which is said to have the largest density of leopards in the world. Yala national park has a protected area of 978 square kms   and is home to 44 varieties of mammals and 215 species of birds. Wild elephants roam the road adding to the charm of the Park which has a surreal combination of a breathtaking beach and jungle lands. The organized safaris at Yala operate twice a day. From Yala it’s back to Colombo.

On the way to Colombo one passes several quaint beach towns like Mirissa, Galle and Bentota. Mirissa is known for exhilarating whale sightings from November to April. Again hotel options range from budget to luxury. Further on one should take a short stop over at Galle. This fortified city was built by the Dutch in 1588 but fortified by the Portuguese in the 17^th century, is Asia’s largest standing fortress built by the Europeans. The fort city has a character of its own with colonial architecture, cobblestoned pavements, swanky shops, quaint restaurants, a pretty lighthouse and numerous monitor lizards.  Galle is also home to the Galle International Stadium which is considered one of the most picturesque stadiums in the world. Devastated by the 2004 tsunami, Galle has regained its glory and beauty.

The last stop of the trip is Colombo, the country capital which has something for everyone. Shopping, Casinos, restaurants, distinctive buildings like the Independence memorial hall, the Viramahadevi Park  and temples like the famed Gangaramaya Buddhist temple and the Hindu temple – Kailawasanathan Swami Devasthanam Kovil. Evenings see tourists visit Galle face green, an urban park on the sea face extending up to 500 meters.  Colombo is connected to other parts of the country by trains as well as buses. The bustling city is getting even busier with skyscrapers and other commercial developments, a contrast to the rest of the quiet and relatively less busy east coast.

There is something special about Sri Lanka apart from its tea and that’s its people. The simplicity of the people and vibrancy of their smiles runs through the country. The colours of the sea and the lovely green expanse radiate serenity. With speed limits on the highway set at a maximum of 70 kmph for cars and buses, you are sure to look out of the window and learn to see again. Due to its long civil conflict, Sri Lanka was not always a tourist destination but today it enchants its visitors, making them promise to return again.

Eminent Senior Artist Vinod Shah’s recent retrospective exhibition held at the Sarjan Art Gallery, Vadodara (From 24th Sept. to 15th Oct.) was a visual treat for the viewers.

Country landscapes, urban scapes in light pinks and several tones of blue with pencil drawings, touches of brush strokes were sensitive renderings of abstract art.

Forms of women set in rural landscape as well as the city home interiors were presented with utmost grace. Still life and architectural forms were simple visuals seen composed in magical, serene and quietly exuberent colours. A rich aura of lyricism dominated all the visuals.

Speaking about Vinod Shah’s works Late eminent artist Shri K.G. Subramanyan said “A kind of fluid poetry is the hallmark of Vinod Shah’s paintings. It alters the characters of whatever media he puts to work. It also reorders the anatomy of whatever subject of theme he works around”

Another senior artist, Prof. Jyoti Bhatt said :

“Vinod Shah has worked using various mediums including serigraphy, oils and collage in which he has often used three dimensional forms. But his real forte is the transparent and translucent water soluble mediums, namely water colour and acrylic paints”.

Eminent Artist N.S. Bendre used to be Vinod Shah’s teacher at the Faculty of Fine Arts in Baroda. He once asked his students to define a good work of art. No one could answer this question. Prof. bendre then answered his own question.

He said ‘What happens when one throws a pebble in a still lake? Ripples are created in the water and that is exactly what should happen when you look at a good work of art. There should be ripples of joy created in your heart.’ This is exactly happens when one looks at Vinod Shah’s works. There are ripples of joy created in one’s heart and much more, as arresting visuals linger on in one’s memory forever.

There is always something different about Sundays. I feel Sundays carry an air of luxurious leisure, a holiday mood builds up and fills one’s heart with renewed energy and zest. I remember one such Sunday in 2010. I was in my Lakeland home, near Tempa in Florida. That Saturday I missed my childhood friend Rima Sen, who had gone to visit her Uncle in Orlando. Those days both Rima and I were applying for jobs after our post graduation in economics. Rima had also finished her M.B.A. Somehow thinking about Rima’s lovely face and our future together I had fallen asleep.

Next morning when I opened my eyes I got up and walked towards our front garden. I noticed a large American squirrel disappear in the bushes. We had only one large old oak tree, two young apple trees and tulsi shrubs creating a border of sorts. The two flower beds had white and yellow chrysanthemums in full bloom. Suddenly I noticed the Sunday times newspaper lying on the front steps.

After a quick shower, when I walked into our drawing room. I found my grandmother’s photograph had a new garland of fresh flowers. The constant chant of Gayatri Mantra filled the room. Aroma of sandalwood ‘Agarbatti’ and a lamp or ‘diva’ was lit near the photograph. I then realized it was my Grandmother’s birthday.

I found my Dad sitting on the sofa staring at his mother’s (My Grandmother’s) photograph with tearful eyes. I realized, he had the same sharp features as my Grandmother in the photograph.

I looked at my mother, who walked in with a tray, full of three teacups. She beamed in her new blue satin Hongkong gown with a floral print. Mom has a grand presence and a proud look, unlike my Dad who has a humble look, who loves his modest Kolhapuri chappals, Khadi Kurta Pyjama and home made ghee.

My mom is very fair, pleasantly plump with a sharp tongue and piercing black eyes. She is very proud of her new Hongkong gown, diamond earrings and hush puppies slippers. She always looks well groomed and stylish in her branded clothes. Dad’s education, a good job and good looks had given him a pretty and rich bride from Mumbai. As a couple Mom and Dad are very different from each other but they have a successful arranged marriage. Dad continues loving old Hindi movie songs & Ganga Sati Bhajans while Mom loves to see new movies and do shopping, loves imported perfumes & branded clothes.

Sweet smells of morning nashta like, ‘muthia’ or ‘thepla’ when pervades the house, it sets our appetite on fire. Mom is a fabulous cook so usually on Sunday mornings. Mom would often scold us, she would say in a annoyed tone, ‘You two get up and get going instead of lolling around’ Dad would look at her, amused and often say “A school teacher is always a school teacher!” and laugh. Then we would all laugh. But this Sunday everything was different. Mom was not her chirpy self, she was quiet and lost in deep thought.

Yes, my mom had taught Maths in a school before she got married. She always looked for harmony, order and perfection. Like a typical school teacher she overvalued discipline while my Dad and I are basically tree spirits.

I looked at Dad and said ‘I don’t remember ‘Daadi’, tell me something about her ‘Dad looked at me said ‘Your Daadi’ was one in a million. She was great. We are all here today and its all because of her.

Then Dad said “My Father, meaning your Grandfather Jayantbhai was a small time bootlegger who sold both Desi and English Daaru (liquor). He was very smart and bright. He knew how to handle the hi-fi customers. He also knew some English. As his own Father that is my Grandfather died early of a heart attack, he had to unfortunately leave school, So he took over the liquour business which flourished many fold, So we bought a new house. But Madhavkaka who was our neighbour got jealous and got him murdered. I was shocked to hear these words! then Dad said, “I remember it was a Diwali night and someone from our basti identified his body on the road near the bridge. It was a horrible night, the police arrived and there was utter shock and chaos around. Your Grandmother fainted with grief. As days passed, she seemed to have calmed down but silently wept most of the time. After a few days, after all the rituals were over and all relatives had left us. One night while serving dinner to us, Maa suddenly declared, “We are leaving this wretched place forever” I was shocked. “Where are we going?” I asked ‘And Maa, what about the revenge? We all know who did it’ I said and waited for her reply. She thought for a moment and then said. ‘Hitesh beta you and Jiga (Jignesh) listen to me. What do we attain by revenge? Are we criminals like them? Will your father come back? Their people may then kill me. The police might send them to jail but if I am no more what happen’s to both of you? No-no! We will not get into this useless revenge chakkar (cycle) We will just leave this place and start a new life’. I was stunned by her words. I was twelve years old and Jiga was only five then. But I had understood every word of what Maa had said and knew she was right. I waited for her words. Slowly, she said’ We are going to Nizampura near your Gopal Mama’s (uncle’s) house. I have already talked to him. He has found a room on rent for us. Everything is settled. I’m going to work as a cook at his Narayan Sheth’s bungalow. Your Gopal mama has fixed that job for me. As you know your Gopalmama and your Surajmami live in Narayan Sheth’s out house. He works there as their driver and he say they are nice and kind people she added.

We have to get out from this disgusting place with drunken fools and murderers, living all around us! Mom you’re absolutely right ‘I said to her, even though I did feel a bit sad about leaving my friends in the old basti. I now remember my Gopal Mama was a simple soul, a bit vain about his good looks, very proud of his broken English and forover smiling and combing his hair, but very honest, hardworking and totally devoted to Narayan Sheth’s family. Even Sheth’s wife Kokilaben liked Gopal mama and Suraj Mami. Their son Mukeshbhai and daughter Kinjalben too were very fond of us. They would get new kites for us every year and would always let us watch their T.V. in their house.

Gopal Mama’s wife was short tempered, buxom young attractive woman. She was a nonstop talker. Every evening she sold flowers near the Amba Mata temple. Being childless, She showered us with all her love, but maintained a respectful distance from my Maa. Much later after many years they had a daughter and a son. We children thought Suraj Mami had a heart of gold.

“How did Grandmother die” I asked Dad, “She was knocked down by a govt. bus near Dakore. She used to visit Dakore on  every “Poonam” for Darshan of the Lord Ranchodji and pray for us.” Dad answered my question with a sad, wistful look in his eyes. Then he spoke again he said “Later when I started working after I finished my law studies. Narayan Sheth’s son Mukeshbhai had helped us with the immigration papers. Shethji gave us money for travel. We also sold off the house built by your Grandfather as Maa was no more. We had six months left for us to leave for U.S.A. when suddenly we received compensation money from the govt. as it was accidental death in your grandmother’s case. Your Mom very wisely bought some gold and kept aside some money for Jiga’s education who was in first year of college and now we are here” said Dad and fell silent.

I thought about our life near Gopal Mama’s house in India. I remembered how we often played in Narayan Sheth’s back verandah and did our home work there while Maa cooked in their kitchen. I did little jobs for Shethani like carrying her clothes for istri (ironing) getting Calcutti Pan for her, bringing in the morning newspapers etc. I even did the early morning job of distributing newspapers in different areas to help Maa. Jiga helped me sometimes but played most of the time and was full of pranks and was always caught plucking fruits from Narayan Sheth’s garden. But Jiga was always forgiven as he took great care of Shethani’s Dog ‘Tiger’ who was a handsome German Shepherd Dog and apple of her eye. Even though Tiger was a good natured, gentle giant most people outside were scared of him. Now when I think of our life there I realize that our life had really changed for better then what it had been, in our old basti.

Then Dad spoke again he said ‘Maa often said that she was proud of us. But few mothers do what she did for us. Without any formal education she struggled to give us a good life. Gopal Mama too helped us and together they bravely carved a new path for us. She was going to join us here after a month but she was gone forever. Even after her death she left a gift for us……..that compensation money……….and he could not speak further. Now Dad had tears streaming down his cheeks. I had never seen my Dad crying like this, and I sat shaken inside and I realized that I was dying to tell all this to Rima when, I would meet her the next day when she would return from Orlando.

- Sumati Gangopadhyay

India is a vast country that is so diverse, that within 100 kms in a state you would find a new culture, language and religion. India is mostly about colours, cultures, sweets, religions, beautiful landscape and much more. I have been travelling in India for the past 7 years. In 2012, being a 19-year-old, I went on my first summer expedition to Mumbai on a local train and was engulfed with the diversity that existed in that compartment. And soon as I started travelling alone, I discovered myself in my own country. I was filled with warmth and love, gratitude and celebration wherever I would arrive. This became an addiction soon, and sooner I would skip my university to get lost in this vast country.

Way to Leh

But then two years back I visitedAuroville almost unexpectedly for an internship, and decided to stay back. In 2019 summer, almost after a year and half in Auroville, I wanted to step out again and venture into the wild. This time I was not travelling alone but with Manolo(a Dutch resident of Auroville and my boyfriend). After6 months of being together I shared my adventures with him and no wonder he craved to jump in. 2019 summer was a very special one, once again I wanted to travel back to the mountains. I started with Manali, and from here on we decided to travel on a motorbike trip(very inspired by a Hollywood movie “The Motorcycle Diaries”) to Jespa and then to Zingzingbar.For the first two nights we were supposed to stay in Manali and hire a bike for further journey.I soon realized that, with the influx of tourism, Manali 2019 cannot be differentiated from a local market in Delhi. I remember travelling to Manali when I was 15 and now,being 26 within a span of 11 years the drastic change that has taken place, seemed like a nightmare. Every inch of the place has been polluted with plastic waste and hundreds and hundreds of cars lined up in traffic. I had travelled all this way up with a very passionate and deep hope of breathing cool fresh air of the mountain but unfortunately our fate had something else instore for us. Doomed in dismay, but still with a lot of hope we wanted to continue our journey. But as soon as I sat on the bike, I could feel myself getting lost among the thousands travelling up the Rohtang pass.

Zingzingbar

The white snow over the mountains, were covered with a black veil of tar. As we still kept moving forward, I understood that the situation would only get worse and decided to prepare myself for all the guilt and frustration. No doubt that I was contributing enough to the pollution caused by the many cars and vehicles driving up. At one point we decided to rest at a local café thinking we would be able to enjoy a local cuisine. But my desire to do so was questioned by consumerism and commercialism. The whole café was full of packets and packets of Maggi and tons of candies wrapped in plastic inside dozens ofglass jars. I was so depressed by this time that I could feel my adventure collapsing. But it was not just about pollution anymore, it was about humanity as well. My whole body was shivering at this point, the country has been blinded with commercialism, has been blinded with religions, has been blinded to divide and rule. But we didn’t give up, we kept going until we reached Jespa and then drove the next day to Zingzingbar.

Writer : Pujasree Burman
Photo Courtesy : Pujasree Burman

Come in the summer, and Silchar and its neighboring areas would be burning in the Sun’s scorching rays. Men have always been known to be lovers of cool water bodies in which they find ultimate solace especially during the summer season. It is not known to many that Cachar district and the district of Karimganj of Silchar are home to two wonderful wetlands which provide relief, employment, economic opportunities and entertainment for all. In addition to the two main wetlands known as Shon Beel (Beel means lake in local Bengali dialect), and Chatla Beel or Hawar or Anwa, there are other wetlands and water bodies like Rata Beel, Bakri Hawar, Ramnagar Anwa and Hakaluki Hawar.

Shon Beel, situated in the district of Karimganj, is one of the most colossal lakes in the entire Southern region of Assam, which also enjoys an exalted status of being the largest wetland there. Shon Beel is special in more than one way. During winters, it is used as a farmland for cultivation of rice (Buro Rice). It remains a lake through the rainy and summer seasons. The Beel is also popular for the existence of both lotic and lentic ecosystems. The Singla River flows through the middle of the Beel, enriching its fauna.

During the summer season, a large number of people visit the Shon Beel for enjoying its charming, serene scenic beauty. Here professions change with conditions. Fishermen plunge into fishing during the summer season, and cultivate rice during winter season. Very few people know that it is the second largest wetland in Asia. In fact, it is the second water body in the state of Assam which has been accorded the status of being a wetland of National importance. Shon Beel, the confluence of two streams; Singla and Kachua, is the home to a large of fishermen from Kaibortas, Namashudras and Patnis.

They still continue to live near the lake. It is astounding to note that the Beel waters are full of chela baiyya, moka, mrigel, kathla and rui fishes. Like Shon Beel, Chatla Beel attracts and allures people, and likewise Chatla Beel also fully becomes a farmland where rice cultivation happens during the winters. From March and April, the land gets filled with water and transforms into a lake. Chatla Beel is also known for its fishery and serves as a producer of all types of fishes. The Beel is renowned for its Bhujia fish. The water body, though not that deep in its level of water, serves as a pastime for the people of Silchar.

It was 1458. Rao Jodha, one of the twenty-four sons of Rao Ranmal, had just ascended the throne of Marwar. But inspite of this outwardly joyous occasion, the man was doused in agony. His father had been assassinated by the Rana Kumbha of Chittor, and by some luck he had managed a narrow escape. Now, he simply had to move his capital to a safer location before it was too late, for the thousand years old Mandore fort had begun falling apart, constantly vulnerable to attacks by the Sultans of Malwa and Gujarat, a city no longer safe to dwell.

An extensive search for a new location began. The answer came in form of one rocky, isolated hilltop nine kilometers to the South of Mandore, the Bhakurcheeria, meaning, the mountain of birds. According to legends, the sole human occupant of the hills, a hermit named Cheeria Nathji, the Lord of birds, had to be displaced though, in order for constructions to begin. However, each time he was asked to move, there came an uncompromising refusal. So much so that at one point Rao Jodha was pushed to take a very severe measure. Help was sought from the immensely powerful female warrior sage from Deshnok, Mata Karni. Cheeria Nathji had no choice but to quit under her prevailing influence. Nonetheless, he did not vacate without a daunting, bitter curse.

“Jodha! May your citadel ever suffer the scarcity of water!”

Anxious, the King immediately had a house and temple built for the hermit inside the fort, subsequently mollifying him by doing so. Furthermore, to ensure that the new site proved auspicious, a man named Raja Ram Meghwal was buried alive as an offering to appease the gods, who came forward for this service voluntarily; a man who rightfully finds mention in many folktales and certain stone carvings within the fort. In return, his family and descendants have been looked after by the Rathods to this day. Thus, it is Rao Jodha, the fifteenth chief of the Rathod clan, who established this new city, a city named Jodhpur.

Today, the Mehrangarh Fort stands 117 feet tall, 68 feet wide and at an altitude of nearly 400 meters above the city skyline. The construction of this fort started in the fifteenth century, and went on till the seventeenth, ultimately completed by Maharaja Jaswant Singh, a much later descendant of Rao Jodha. The fort is named after the chief deity of the Rathods, for it is believed that the Rathods are direct descendants of the Sun God. ‘Mihir’, also pronounced locally as ‘Mehr’, means the Sun; and ‘Garh’ means Fort. Therefore, as per the pronunciation in local language, Mehr-Garh came to be known as Mehrangarh. Initially, Jodhpur was contained within the four walls of the fort. However, the city outgrew in size within fifty years of its construction because people migrated in from many different regions.

The Loha Pol ^

Seven gates stand guard to this stately fort: Jai Pol, Loha Pol, Fateh Pol, Amrita Pol, Dodh Kangra Pol, Gopal Pol and Bheru Pol. Each of these gates has a saga of its own. Jai Pol is the main entrance to the fort, built in 1808 by Jaipur’s Maharaja Man Singh following his defeat in invasion. Just inside Loha Pol are two sets of small hand prints, the sati marks of royal widows who threw themselves on their Maharajas’ funeral pyres. The Fatteh Pol, which also means victory gate, was raised by Maharaja Ajit Singh to celebrate the defeat of the Mughals. Imprints of the impact of cannonballs fired by the attacking armies of Jaipur can still be seen on the Dodh Kangra Pol. Situated to the left of the main entrance of fort is the chhatri of Kirat Singh Soda, the honorable soldier who fell dead on that spot defending Mehrangarh against the armies of Amber.

As we stepped out of our auto-rickshaw into the main fort entrance, we were welcomed by the absolutely divine jugalbandi of the chikara and khartal. There is something strangely magical about Rajasthani folk music. It has an effect on me that I cannot quite understand or explain. Unmoved by all this, my mother walked ahead while I stood there for long, appreciating the little boy who played the ravanahatha like a pro!

As I walked through the graveled lanes towards the inner palaces, one thing became increasingly evident. Each pillar, each wall, each door and each little window exhibited brilliant craftsmanship. The many palaces that had once been home to the royals have now been turned into museums for us to go back in time. The Royal Throne of Jodhpur, also known as the Sringar Chowki, is preserved in the Moti Mahal. Exceptionally intricate filigree work in gold adorned the ceilings of Phool Mahal. The Ajit Villas displayed a varied range of musical instruments and royal attires from the fifteenth to the eighteenth centuries.

I was particularly intrigued by the gorgeous Phool Mahal, literally meaning the chamber of flowers; a palace that is still used as a shooting location for many Bollywood films.

The Hathi Howdah ^

Certain erstwhile objects were so incredible to see up close. The Howdahs for example, a kind of two-compartment wooden seats covered in gold or silver embossed sheets, fastened onto the elephant’s back, were something I had seen only in period films. The section with the more abundant leg space was evidently made for the Kings or Royalty; while the rear smaller one stayed reserved for a reliable bodyguard disguised as a fly-whisk attendant. Palanquins or palkis were another very popular means of travel for the ladies of the nobility. I could only marvel at the exquisite designs!

The Tamzam ^

The Daulat Khana displayed a collection of fine and applied arts of the Mughal period of Indian history, some stunning miniatures of the Rathod dynasty. The exhibits here dated to the period during which the Rathod rulers of Jodhpur maintained close links with the Mughal emperors. Also, rare collections of armor from every period in Jodhpur were on display, a floor definitely not to be missed. There were sword hilts in jade, silver, rhino horn, ivory; shields studded with rubies, emeralds and pearls; guns with gold and silver work on the barrels, and what not! Also on display were the personal swords of many emperors, like the outstanding historical Khaanda of Rao Jodha weighing over 3 kilograms, the sword of Emperor Akbar, and the sword of Timur.

There was a Turban Gallery which preserved the many different types of turbans once widespread in Rajasthan. Every community, region and festival had their own head-gear!

In the end, I went to the the Chamunda Devi Temple. It houses Rao Jodha’s favorite goddess, Chamunda Mataji. Photography wasn’t allowed there so I could not click pictures, but I wish I could, because the chief deity was absolutely magnificent and the temple was extremely clean.

In popular culture, the Mehrangarh Fort has been one of the prime filming locations for Disney’s 1994 live-action film The Jungle Book, as well as the 2012 film The Dark Knight Rises. The fort is built on a Malani Igneous Suite Contact which represents the last phase of igneous activity of the Precambrian age in Indian subcontinent. For this unique feature, the fort has been declared a National Geological Monument by the Geological Survey of India.

Indeed, when Rudyard Kipling had illustrated Jodhpur’s Mehrangarh fort as “A Palace that might have been built by Titans and colored by the morning sun”, he was not exaggerating.