Travel and Deal

Kufri : To Go Or Not To Go | Review

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Shantanu Samanta

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I visited Kufri in December 2016, in its peak of snowing. We faced no problem in finding accommodation. Kufri is the lifeline, the heart and soul of Shimla. Our drive was exhausting because of so much traffic. However, when we reached there, all our tiredness went away, it is a wonderful place, full of adventures! We did bungee jumping, rope climbing and what not! Also the horse and the yak rides were fabulous! You will have to buy a ticket of 400 rupees for horse riding. The ride is for one hour. It is a very crowded place. You can also buy various traditional items from there like Himachali caps, woodcraft items, Shimla shawls, etc. The best thing about the place is the evenings. Honestly, the beauty of the place gets enhanced manifolds and adds a romantic touch to your stay. The people of Kufri are also very awesome, and it is an overall safe place. In case you decide to go in summers, you will not find any snow, but it will still be beautiful and peaceful. Unlike Shimla which is overcrowded, the temperature of Kufri is usually low because of its height. I highly recommend a trip to Kufri, especially if you are planning to go to Shimla.

Shaili Nagpal

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We visited Kufri during the first week of November, 2015. We had to take horses in order to reach the destination. Each will get an individual horse, which is a good thing. But the path is risky since there are steep slopes on either side of the roads and there is no proper fencing. We felt nervous to travel by horses. When we did reach there after a long, dangerous ride there was nothing interesting to see. A total waste of time and money. Kufri is basically a very barren land where all you can see are yaks, and you can only click pictures with them. The local daily-wage workers seeking to maximize profits may try to dupe you by selling a ride on khacchars (mules). Do not take them as they will ask for almost Rs. 350 to Rs. 400 saying the distance is a very long one. When you reach you will see it was hardly 2-3 kms. And by the way they don’t even care about their animals. I will recommend you to go up by walking as it is a fairly smooth and easy trail and it will take you maximum half an hour to go. And beware of the khacchars as they are not in control of their owners, they may mistakenly push you over. If you have a lot of time then maybe you can go otherwise there are many places to visit in Shimla. The weather was very chilly but we were disappointed to not see any snow. The place was also really dry. There are many small eateries there. You can take photos by wearing different costumes for rent. They will take you to some place telling there is an apple garden. There is nothing like that.

Accessibility was not that tough as Kufri is well connected to cities like Shimla and Kalka with quality transportation. Hotels were very cheap as well, but the services offered by them dashed all my hopes of having quality accommodation. People were good and the city is very safe even at nights.

However, in my honest opinion, I did not like Kufri.

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The Enticing Unakoti | Photographs: Sandipan Dutta Purkayastha | Story: Sanjay De

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The Unakoti Tirtha is a unique place 178 km from Agartala (in North East India) which cannot be compared to any other place in the country in terms of absolute grandeur and artistry. Unakoti is deservedly reputed for its 7th – 9th AD stone and rock cut images, deep in the forests near Kailashahar. Unakoti literally means one less than a crore, i.e. 99,99,999. The place obviously does not have those many sculptures, but the hundreds of massive rock-cut sculptures and those made out of sandstone, besides scattered ruins of ancient temples make Unakoti a unique place.

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Legends say, according to Hindu mythology, when Lord Shiva was going to Kashi passing this place along with one crore other Gods and Goddesses, He had retired for the evening here. That night, He had asked His co-travelers to wake up before sunrise so they could proceed for Kashi on time. But, unfortunately nobody woke up except Lord Siva himself. Hence, He cursed them to become stone images. That is why we have one less than a crore stone structures there.

Another story associated with the site is a quite a different one. It goes like this. Once a renowned sculptor Kalukumar saw Lord Shiva in his dream. He was asked by the Lord to carve out one crore images of Gods and Goddesses in a single night to make the site as sacred as Varanasi. The sculptor, along with his associates worked all night and were able to almost complete the creation of one crore sculptures. However, when Kalukumar was just short of one sculpture, the idea dawned on him to carve out his own figure as well in order to attain immortality. But before he could complete his work, day broke out and the massive task of one crore sculptures and figures remained incomplete.

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The central Shiva head known as Unakotiswara Kal Bhairava is about 30 feet high including an embroidered head-dress which itself is 10 feet high. On each side of the head-dress of the central Shiva, there are two full size female figures – one of Durga standing on a lion and another female figure on the other side. In addition three enormous images of Nandi Bull are found half buried in the ground.

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A massive Ganesh figure is also carved in the complex while there is a Chaturmukha Shivlinga nearby. Among other rock-cut and stone images are those of Vishnu, Nandi, Narasimha, Ravana, Hanuman, and several unidentified deities.

The consensus among archeologists is that although the predominant influence of the Shiva cult is obvious, the sculptures were also influenced by several other cults like Tantric, Shakti, and Hatha yogis. It is also inferred that the site dates back to the period between the 12th and 16th centuries, and that the sculptures belong to two different periods of art.

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Unakoti is a must for every traveler to the Indian North East. The road to Unakoti is as beautiful as the place. The Dhalai hills is the greenest forest I have ever seen. The bamboo and bananas almost touch the sky. You will cross the most beautiful villages all the way. It takes 5 hours in a private vehicle (about 200 kms from Agaratala) and you can come back at night to Agartala, as staying there may not be possible. But carry some thing for the mosquitoes.

Every year a big fair popularly known as Ashokastami Mela is held in the month of April which is visited by thousands of pilgrims. Another smaller festival takes place in January.

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The site has suffered centuries of neglect causing degradation and loss of considerable scale to the rock art. Since its adoption by the ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) as a heritage site, the situation has slightly improved, though a lot of work including substantial excavation remains to be undertaken.The government of India has approached the UNESCO to declare it as a world heritage site. The Centre has recently granted Rs 12 crore to the state for developing the area, 178 km from here, as a major tourist destination.

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Doodh Cola

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Kolkata is known for its sultry summers, and more so for the unbeatable heat waves in the afternoon. However, the same city does offer us something just as enlivening: doodh cola. Now who would have ever thought of a fizzy glass of milk? Like ever? But apparently, somebody did. In the early 1980’s, dhaba owner n out of the box invention by dhaba owner Balwant Singh, near the Elgin Road Gurudwara in Bhawanipore.

It is a mixture of Milk and Thumbs Up. Its taste very very unique but they should put less ice and more of milk and cola. ‘Doodh Cola’s price is 120/- per liter enough for two people. Ambience is very ordinary and staffs are okay also parking is a big difficulty here. Kolkata, the culture capital already tops the chart for its famous mistidahi and other products made from milk but this after meal freshener is in different demands.Served in kullads makes it even more eye catching and already cools down your thirst on a hot sultry day in the city.

Location: 10/B, Harish Mukherjee Road, Near Elgin Road Gurdwara, Bhawanipur, Kolkata
Opening Hours: 7:00 am – 12:00 noon

RECIPE:

What you need:
One glass chilled milk, one glass chilled cola and 1⁄2 a tablespoon sugar.

HOW TO MAKE IT:
Put sugar in a glass. Add milk and mix really really well. Top it off with the cola and there you go!

Posted in Food

The Architectural Influence on The Chikankari Embroidery of Lucknow | Aditi Raman

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“Bajeecha-e-atfal hai duniya mere aage
Hota hai shab-o-roz tamasha mere aage”

This sher of Ghalib is the perfect representation of the beautiful architectures of Lucknow. The giant architectures around Lucknow along with residential and isolated areas are the silent observers of change with passing time. They have seen all the changes silently as they played the role of parents for different generations. The architectures have been a great source of inspirations for artist, writers, craftsmen, musicians and dancers of the city.

Lucknow is considered as one of the paramount cities of India, and is really appreciable for its beauty, culture, tehzeeb, food and attire. This city has been populated since ancient times on the bank of river Gomati and is also known as ‘The City of Architecture.’ All the architectures of Lucknow are very remarkable. These statues have different kinds of designs, shapes and ornamentations in them. Most of the architectures have Indo-Islamic styles. Its historical importance cannot be articulated enough. There are more than hundred monuments in Lucknow. These monuments are seen as important symbols of unity in diversity in our way of life. The city is known for its Ganga-Jamuni tehzeeb which means love and unity of two cultures.
Cultural amalgamation brings out an amazing feature of the monumental heritage of Lucknow, as it has been ruled by three cultures: Hindus, Mughals and Britishers; and each one of them have contributed something towards the architectural styles of this city. Most of the buildings have a mixture of Indian and Islamic styles which is called Indo-Islamic architectures, but Lucknow has witnessed the European influence also on its buildings during British raj. Charbag Railway Station, Clock Tower, Residency and Christ Church are some examples of the Indo-British style.

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Along with these architectures, there are several kind of filigree embroideries famous in Lucknow, but Chikankari is the most well known. It is famous across the world for its elegant features. Its Indian origin goes back to the days of Nurjahan, who brought the chikankari tradition from Persia to India. Chik is a Persian word which means ‘embroidery’ and Kari is a Sanskrit word that means ‘To Do’. There is a great influence of architectural patterns and motifs of chikankari clothes. There is a magical relation between architectures and textiles of Lucknow.

For example, the white on white nakkashi on the walls and white on white embroidery or, tint shaded embroidery on white cloth look similar to each other.

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Nakkashi on the walls of Chhota Imambara, Lucknow
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A typical Chikankari embroidery
Image Courtesy: Aditi Raman’s image stock

The shapes of tomb and chatris are similar to the neck patterns in chikankari dresses.
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Image Courtesy: Aditi Raman’s image stock

The karigars of Lucknow are doing same motifs somehow taken from these buildings in a new style and new material for different purpose. There are many current designs of chikankari which are taken from the framed traditional buildings.

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Image Courtesy: Aditi Raman’s image stock

For example, the ‘Nakkasi’ and the ’Mihrab’ of the architecture are very close to chikankari Bel or border motifs. One may feel an embroidered cloth covering the wall while looking at the outside view of architecture.

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The floral patterns on the architecture and embroidered cloth
Image Courtesy: Aditi Raman’s image stock

For instance, Jaali stitch looks like the Jharokha of the monuments. My interest and involvement are taken over by the following points to find the relational context between architecture and textiles:

1. The reflection of light in architectures and its idea in embroidery.
2. The relation between Jaali stitch of Chikankari and the Jharokha of the architectures.
3. The similarities between the shape of the dome and arches with patterns of embroidered garments.

There are countless number of designs, ornamentations, motifs and color combination we can see in both architectures and chikankari fabrics of Lucknow.
The basic theme however remains same in both cases that design flows on the surface with a rhythmic movement to give the impression that carries this movement to infinity. These monuments have served as constant learning areas for us until now and they shall continue to remain interesting and inspiring to us in future as well.

Posted in History and Heritage, Local Culture

Festivals of July

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The sweltering summer months have reached their peak, and the sun seems to be sucking our vigor dry. However, thankfully the clouds are being merciful now, giving us certain days of refreshing downpour. It is July folks, and this month highlights some very significant festivals that celebrate nature, cultural diversity and human gallantry alike. Find out with Travel & Deal…

Van Mahotsav
All over India
1st July –7th July, 2018
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Alarmed by the extensive felling of trees and the direct damage it is causing the environment, Dr. K.M. Munshi, the Union Minister of Agriculture and Food in the 50’s, came up with the idea of an annual tree planting festival in order to raise awareness among the masses towards forest conservation. His idea was to not just launch a mere plantation drive, but to create a festival-like enthusiasm in the citizens as well, to pay reverence-in-action to the ‘silent green soldiers’ of our planet. The other objectives of Munshi were: to increase production of fruits, which could be added to the potential food resources of the country, help create shelter-belts around agricultural fields to increase their productivity, provide fodder leaves for cattle to relieve intensity of grazing over reserved forests, boost soil conservation and prevent further deterioration of soil fertility. The festival now finds mass participation of people, including government agencies, civic bodies and educational institutions across the country, who come together every year to plant saplings.

Jagannath Rath Yatra
Puri, Orissa
July 14th, 2018

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To honor the devotion of Queen Gundicha, wife of the legendary King Indradyumna who built the Puri Jagannatha temple; Lord Jagannatha, Balabhadra and Subhadra leave their regular abode in the main temple and spend a few days in this temple built by Gundicha in their honor. Lord Jagannatha or the Lord of the Universe (literal meaning of the name), a form of Lord Vishnu, is worshipped primarily in the city of Puri, at the famous Jagannatha temple. Jagannatha temple is one of the four Hindu pilgrimages known as the Char Dham Yatra that a Hindu is expected to make in one’s lifetime. According to the Hindu Lunar calendar, the Rath Yatra falls on Dwitiya Tithi during Shukla Paksha of Ashada month.

Kharchi Puja
Agartala, Tripura
July 20th 2018

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The word Kharchi is derived from the word Khya which means earth. Kharchi Puja is basically done to worship the earth. One of the most popular festivals in Tripura, it is a week-long royal Puja held in the temple premises attended by thousands of people. All the rituals are of tribal origin, performed to wash out sins and to clean the post menstrual phase of mother earth’s menstruation. Thus the Puja is performed for seven consecutive days. On the day of the Puja, the fourteen Gods are carried to river Saidra. The gods are bathed in the holy water and are brought back to the temple. Then they are re-installed in the temple by performing Pujas, offering of flowers and vermillion. Animal sacrifice is also an important part of this festival and includes sacrificing of goats and pigeons. Both tribal and non-tribal people come together in celebration. A large fair and some cultural programs are also organized during this time.

Kargil Vijay Diwas
All over India
July 26th 2018

It was on this day 18 years ago that the Indian Army recaptured all the Indian posts in Kargil that had been occupied by Pakistan’s army, known famously as “Operation Vijay”. Since then, July 26th has been observed annually to commemorate the sacrifices made by soldiers in this war. The war took place between May and July of 1999 in Jammu and Kashmir’s Kargil district.

Guru Purnima
All over India
27th July 2018

This festival is celebrated to honor all teachers. In Indian traditions, teachers are called Guru. The author of Mahabharata, Shri Veda Vyasa is worshipped on this day. Students pay respect to their teachers and elders with gifts of coconut, clothes, and sweets known as Guru-Dakshina.

Champakulam Boat Race
Champakulam, Kerela
28th July 2018

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A boat race held in Kerala, this event enjoys the participation of many colorfully decorated snake boats along with traditional boat songs and water floats. This particular one is perhaps the oldest Snake Boat Races in the State and outsets the boat race season every year. The Pampa River plays host to this race held in Champakkulam, a village in the Alappuzha district.

Posted in Festive India

The Sanctity of The Blissful Ratha Yatra | Shanku Sharma

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Ratha Yatra or Ratha Jatra or the annual Chariot Festival is a colourful Hindu festival in which lakhs of devotees take active part. The festival venerates the deities Lord Jagannath, his elder brother Balabhadra and younger sister Subhadra. A massive procession is taken out in the festival which is celebrated in a grand scale at Puri in Odisha. Puri’s Rath Yatra is the oldest of all Rath Yatras in the world and it finds mention in the Brahma Purana, Padma Purana, Skanda Purana and Kapila Samhita. The lavishly adorned chariots in close resemblance with that of the structures of temples are pulled through the streets.

Devotees from every corner of the country carry an earnest desire to touch and pull the Lords’ chariot as this is considered very auspicious and propitious. The huge processions accompanying the chariots play devotional songs with drums, tambourines and trumpets. Children line up the streets through which the chariots pass and add to the mass chorus. In Silchar, a number of such Raths are taken out in procession. The festival is celebrated with great pomp and show, yet with a deep sense of solemnity, sublimity, piousness and devotion across Barak Valley. A large number of devotees are seen hitting the streets to accompany the holy chariots. They brave the sultry weather and rejoice the festival.

Rath Yatra is celebrated in devotion of Lord Jagannath, who is one of the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu. He is brought out along with His elder brother and sister. The Lord takes rest for a week and then goes back to His temple. During this stay, devotees shower their offerings. The festival begins when Lord Jagannath leaves His temple. The Bishnupriya Manipuris living in the metro cities of India participate and enjoy the festival to the fullest. However, they often make Raths of their village with the help of wood, bamboo and clothes. They use wooden wheels.

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Photo Courtesy: WikiMedia

Devotees from every corner of the country carry an earnest desire to touch and pull the Lords’ chariot as this is considered very auspicious and propitious. The huge processions accompanying the chariots play devotional songs with drums, tambourines and trumpets. Children line up the streets through which the chariots pass and add to the mass chorus. In Silchar, a number of such Raths are taken out in procession. The festival is celebrated with great pomp and show, yet with a deep sense of solemnity, sublimity, piousness and devotion across Barak Valley. A large number of devotees are seen hitting the streets to accompany the holy chariots. They brave the sultry weather and rejoice the festival.

Rath Yatra is celebrated in devotion of Lord Jagannath, who is one of the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu. He is brought out along with His elder brother and sister. The Lord takes rest for a week and then goes back to His temple. During this stay, devotees shower their offerings. The festival begins when Lord Jagannath leaves His temple. The Bishnupriya Manipuris living in the metro cities of India participate and enjoy the festival to the fullest. However, they often make Raths of their village with the help of wood, bamboo and clothes. They use wooden wheels.

The Bishnupriya Manipuris of Bhagatpur in Silchar love to remain rooted to their cultural and spiritual roots. The day`s show stealer is always the ‘Mridanga Chalan’. Sankirtana is also performed as part of this festival. Both groups of men and women perform Sankirtana in a circle. They sing songs with the rhythm of the Pung. A Pung is a Mridanga used by the Manipuris. The festival is sacred to the Bishnupriya Manipuri community. Another Rath which deserves special mention is that which is taken from Radha Madhab Akhra at Bilpar in Silchar. The chariot is the second largest in Assam.

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Photo courtesy: Partha Seal

It is designed with fine, artistic and skillful hands. Beautiful and spectacular chariots with the deities of Lord Jagannath, Balabhadra and Subhadra are brought out from the Radha Madhab Akhra and the Bishnupriya Manipuri Temple of Bhagatpur in Silchar. All the beautiful chariots have the impression of serenity, sanctity, piousness and purity. The magnificence of the chariots overwhelm the onlookers as they look in awestruck wonder. A number of NGOs are seen distributing water for the people who come out on the streets to enjoy the Festival of Chariots. Policemen are seen in every nook and corner of the town to ward off any unwarranted incident.

Various beliefs and faiths are associated with this Rath Yatra. On a lighter vein, many people come out to feel the ambience of the day filled with festive mood. The chariots with the deities crisscross the streets of the town which draw huge crowds around them. It is a colourful chariot–festival that has all the semblance of serenity and sanctity. After a week, the chariots again return to their sanctorum. Rath Yatra is celebrated in more than 108 cities of the world.

Posted in Festive India

A virgin place on the verge of Srinagar: Doodhpathri | Nisha Aggarwal

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The month of June has arrived, so have the sweltering summers. And there is no doubt that we Delhites experience it a bit hotter being the residents of a hustling crowded capital of the country. But one relaxing thing the month of June brings is summer break. If not for the working professionals other than the educators, then at least for school going kids and for college going youngsters. Parents must be ready for insistence of the first and for the already ready plans with friends
of the second. Yes, I am talking about the insistence and plans for a trip to some cooler places. Delhi has many hilly and snow clad places to travel around its vicinity. Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand and Jammu & Kashmir are the top neighboring states which provides a perfect summer getaway. Srinagar in Jammu & Kashmir has been an all-time favorite not only for us Indians, but foreigners as well. In this regard I feel I have been extremely lucky that at least once in a life time I had an opportunity to live in such a place which is known as ‘the paradise on earth’.

The two years when I was posted in Kashmir valley were perhaps the most peaceful and beautiful days of my life. When you have beautiful ‘outside’, it becomes peaceful ‘inside’. Taking a limited trip to some place of your choice is one thing, but living there instead for a considerable amount of time becomes an entirely different game. A limited duration of tour can provide you a glimpse of an overall scenic view, local culture, and local cuisines but a fixed long stay makes you an integral part of that space and you become a localite yourself, at least till the time you are stationed there. The best part of becoming a localite is you are not bound by a time limit for visiting the places around. You can go out for a daylong getaway with colleagues, friends or family members, and can get back home and plan another day-long outing next week or month. It facilitates the deeper understanding of the place rather than a tour around its skin and an exploration to the lesser known places.

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Kashmir is best known for Srinagar’s lakes, Mughal gardens, and a few historical monuments and nearby places like Sonamarg, Gulmarg, and Pahalgam etc. Srinagar city doesn’t provide larger landscapes which includes grasslands and waterfalls, for that one has to go to either Gulmarg or to Pahalgam. But Srinagar is the central stay point if one wants to travel to all these places, as the city has better accommodation facilities and an airport. Pahalgam is the place which provides views of mountains, meadows and river falls at some broader level which is about 92 kms from Srinagar. If one has less time to travel and stay but wants to experience an essence of all of these at once, I would suggest they visit Doodhpathri. Doodhpathri, literally means ‘a valley of milk’ is located in Budgam district of Jammu & Kashmir and 42 kms from Srinagar. Doodhpathri lies in a bowl shaped valley in the Pir Panjal Range of the Himalayas. It is an alpine valley of mountains and the meadows of Pine Fir and Deodar. The natural meadows, which are covered with snow in winter, allow the growth of wild flowers such as daisies, forget-me-nots and butter cups during spring and summer.

It is said that the famous saint of Kashmir, Sheikh-ul-Aalam had prayed here. Once when he was in search for water in the meadows to offer prayers, he hit at the ground with his stick in search for water. However, milk came out instead. He addressed the milk, “you can only be used for drinking and not performing ablution.” Hearing this, the milk at once changed
its state to water and the meadow got its name, Doodhpathri. The water which is at present flowing through the meadows has a milky appearance from distance and remains very cold throughout the year.

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I went there in the beginning days of June along with colleagues (also friends), and still remember while writing this, as to how chilled the water and weather were. It was a rainy day and my colleagues were in their woolen jackets. I was somehow without any woolens and was literally shivering. The lush greens over the vast meadows and silver shining streams running over the large stones were further adding to its beauty.

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Doodhpathri has no permanent settlement and is inaccessible during winter due to heavy snowfall. Because unlike Sonamarg and Gulmarg there is no governmental effort to make it a tourist destination. That is the reason Doodhpathri is a fresh discovery
in Kashmir tourism, beauty of which is still untouched. The thing you should bring into notice before you packs your bags for Doodhpathri is, you won’t find any proper restaurant there so make sure you pack some food items along with you. However, the benefits to this place are, no left over garbage, no trouble from vendors and very less crowd. All that you will get is a vast expanse of natural beauty and nothing to distract you from taking it all through your eyes.

The famous Tosa Maidan lies in the west of Doodhpathri and has been officially opened to visitors from 30 May 2016. During summers shepherds from the plains of district Budgam bring cattle for grazing and remain in Doodhpathri seasonally for about six months. The routes of Doodhpathri are from Srinagar to Budgam, Budgam to Khansahib and Khansahib to Doodhpathri. Total distance of about 42 kms. This route is near to Srinagar airport. Another route is from Srinagar Gulmarg road, the route starts from Srinagar to Magam, Magam to Beerwah and Beerwah to Arizal. Total distance is about 50 km. Before you reach Doodhpathri, a beautiful place of small valleys welcomes you. This place called ‘Tangnar’ is filled with deodar and pine trees on small hills. As you reach to the place Doodhpathri, from the parking area, you can reach the river ‘Shaliganga’ by pony or by walking. Cars may also reach this place in summer, when there is no snow. But until March-April, when roads are covered with heavy snow, commuting happens through pony ride which takes about 20 minutes, and walking which takes around 30 minutes. It’s a beautiful spot with flowing river-which you can cross over a wooden bridge. There is a small hamlet called ‘Mujpathri’ on the banks of river Shaliganga. The other side of the river includes picturesque landscapes with lot of pine trees and a beautiful meadow called ‘Diskhal’ on top of the mountain and overlooks the Ashtaar glacier. It’s approximately a 10 kms long trek from Shaliganga nallah.

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While returning back from the Doodhpathri, there is another treat for the eyes at ‘Palmaidan’. The name of this place is after the ‘Big Stones’ because there are huge stones all around the ground. It situated at a distance of about 5 km from Doodpathri and is the favorite spot of shepherds and cow herders, where they gather in large numbers in summer and graze their cattle and livestock. It is beautiful place with a small stream running on one side of the ground. You can find some ruined structures made of bricks, a place which may provide you nice backgrounds for clicking away!

Posted in Destination of The Month, India Rediscovered

The summery, spicy and very Rajasthani: Ker Sangri | Sowmya Sisodia

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Ker Sangri is an extremely popular dish from Rajasthan, which is quintessentially sour and spicy, much like pickle. Ker, or dried dessert berries and Sangri, or dried dessert beans are found in the more barren parts of Rajasthan. Cleaning the Ker and Sangri are quite the task, otherwise it is a relatively easy dish to make. It is traditionally eaten with bajra roti.

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Photo Courtesy: WikiMedia

INGREDIENTS
• 0.5 Cup Ker
• 1 Cup Sangri
• 8 Dry Red Chillies
• 2 Tsp Cumin Seeds
• 2.5 Tsp Ginger Paste
• 2.5 Tsp Garlic Paste
• 0.5 Tsp Turmeric Powder
• 1 Tsp Coriander Powder
• 1 Tsp Fennel Seeds Powder
• 1.5 Tsp Red Chilli Powder
• 5 Tsp Dry Mango Powder
• 6 Tbsp Yogurt
• Salt
• 2 Tbsp Mustard Oil

METHOD
1. Thoroughly wash and ker and sangri with water, then soak them overnight.
2. Next day, drain the water and wash ker sangri once again.
3. Boil 2.5 cups of water in a big pot. Put the ker sangri in it and add salt.
4. Cook for 5-7 minutes and turn off the heat.
5. Heat oil in a deep pan and add cumin seeds and dry red chillies.
6. Add ginger and garlic paste when the cumin seeds begin to crackle.
7. Add turmeric powder, coriander powder, fennel seeds powder, red chilli
powder and mix.
8. Add 3-4 tablespoons of water and cook the spices for a minute.
9. Now, add ker and sangri along with 3-4 tablespoons of water in which they
have been boiled along with dry mango powder. Cook for 2 minutes.
10. Beat yogurt and transfer to kadai. Also adjust quantity of salt at this stage.
12. Cook for another 5-7 minutes and turn off the heat.
13. Serve with hot rotis or parathas.

Posted in Food, From The Kitchen Shelf

Ambubachi Mela: The Tantric Fertility Festival | Shanku Sharma | Photographs: Partha Seal

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“Asato Maa Sad Gamaya
Tamaso Maa Jyotir Gamaya”

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It is true that menstruation or menstrual cycle is mostly considered a taboo as far as religious doings are concerned, and people seldom like to open up about the subject without considerable reluctance. However, lakhs of people throng the famous Kamakhya Temple atop the Nilachal Hills of Guwahati in Assam during the famed Ambubachi Mela (Ambubachi Fair) or Ameti, also known as the Tantric fertility festival which generally falls on the last week of June. It is a ritual, a ceremony which is observed according to Tantric ways. It is a most celebrated belief that Devi Kamakhya, the Goddess of Shakti (Power), undergoes her annual cycle of menstruation. Interestingly, during this fair, the doors of the temple remain shut for three whole days.

It is held that the Goddess remains impure and unclean for these three days. So, any kind of productive works like farming is not exercised during these days. Even worships and other religious activities also remain ceased during the fair. All through these days devotees do not cook, do not perform Puja and do not read holy books. The Kamakhya temple is one of the 51 Shakti Peethas which lies distributed in the Indian sub continent. The doors of the temple are opened only after the completion of three days. Doors will only be opened after the Goddess Kamakhya is bathed and other rituals are carried out.

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It is a ritual of the Tantric cult. It is only on the fourth day when devotees of the Goddess are not stopped from entering the temple for worshipping her. There are several layers of mystery, myth and other-worldliness about Ambubachi Mela. Kamakhya is also called Kamarupa – the form and shape of love, desire and lust. The Goddess is worshipped in both her maternal and erotic roles. In fact, there is no idol of the deity. She is worshipped in the shape and form of a Yoni like black stone from where, quite mysteriously, a natural spring flows.

Tantric cult is quite prevalent and common in the eastern parts of the country. The Tantric Babas who remains in isolation and seclusion for the rest of the year, makes their appearances public only during these four days. One can find some Babas exhibiting their psychic and extrasensory powers like inserting their heads in a pit and standing upright on it and remaining in a standing position on one leg for a long time. It is of importance and interest that the Prasad is distributed in the forms of Angodak and Angabastra. Angodak is the fluid part of the body and Angabastra refers to the piece of red cloth which is used to cover the stone Yoni during these three days.

Pilgrims, lakhs in number, from Sadhus to shareholders, from writers to wrestlers and from ministers to masons visit this temple. Sanyasins, Sadhus, Sadhvis, Aghorasa and even Bauls of West Bengal do not forget to visit this place during Ambubachi Mela. In addition to this, people from aboard also come to seek the Goddess’ blessings. This year the Mela will begin from June 22. Devotees can worship the Goddess on June 26. The police and civil administration of Guwahati makes adequate and ample arrangements for all tourists and the pilgrims. Camps are set up for provision of shelter and accommodation to the visitors. A huge number of volunteers are engaged for making suitable provisions.

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Mythology has it that once Lord Shiva flew through the skies in anger at the death of Sati, his beloved consort. A question that haunts us is whether women in India will ever get safety and security? India is a country where female goddesses and deities are worshipped but living women are tortured, beaten, killed, burnt alive and raped.

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Posted in Celebrating India, Festive India, Local Culture

Festivals of June

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The mangoes have arrived in full swing and so has the heat! Summer is here folks, and this month, like last month brings with it some more spectacular occasions to celebrate. From stunning local festivals like Assam’s Ambubachi Mela at the Kamakhya Temple to the nationally celebrated Eid-al-Fitr, to the internationally observed World Environment Day and International Yoga Day, this month brings forth a potpourri of reasons to rejoice. Sojourn with us as Travel & Deal explores the myriad festivals of June!

Sindhu Darshan Festival
River Sindhu (Indus): Shey Manla, Leh
1st-3rd June 2018

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On the banks of the ancient Indus River in Shey Manla, the very colourful and culturally heterogeneous Sindhu Darshan festival is celebrated as an ode to the diverse tradition of India. The festival marks the beautiful blending cultural hues of our country, where earthen pots of water drawn from various rivers across India is immersed into the waters of Sindhu River. Participants are given a grand reception, followed by performances from the local folk troupes. In addition, local music and food create a spectacular ambience of cheer.

World Environment Day
Worldwide
5th June 2018

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The World Environment Day holds greater significance this year as India will be playing host to the event. Traditionally, Indian philosophy and lifestyle have been rooted in the concept of co-existence with nature. With the “Beat Plastic Pollution” theme this year, the focus is essentially on governments, industry, communities, and individuals to come together and explore sustainable alternatives and urgently reduce the production and excessive use of single-use plastic polluting our oceans which are evidently damaging to our marine life and also pose danger for human health.

Eid-al-Fitr
All over India
15th June 2018

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As the first day of the Islamic month of Shawwal, Eid-al-Fitr marks the end of Ramadan, a month of fasting and prayer. Many Muslims attend communal prayers and listen to a khutbaor sermon on the first day of the month of Shawwal. Festive meals are prepared elaborately and people wear new clothes, visit relatives and give presents or candy to children.

Saga Dawa
Gangtok, Sikkim
15th June 2018

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The silent, serene hills of Kanchenjunga sees a sudden eruption of colours in the month of June. Saga Dawa is considered the most important festival of the Mahayana Buddhists, and celebrates the three most significant events of Buddha’s life: His birth, death and enlightenment. The celebrations happen with enormous fanfare! Each ritual is performed with a strong essence of spirituality and understanding.

Maharana Pratap Jayanti
Primarily Rajasthan
16th June 2018

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Born in the 16th century in Kumbhalgarh, Rajasthan to Maharana Udai Singh II and Rani Jaiwantabai, the legendary Maharana Pratap was a true patriot who initiated the first war of independence. In the famous battle of Haldighati against Mughal monarch Akbar, the Maharana along with his equally able Rajput comrades, fought back heroically irrespective of being heavily outnumbered. Maharana Pratap is respected throughout the country for being an epitome of valor, heroism, pride, patriotism and standing for the spirit of independence. His birth anniversary is celebrated on the 3rd day of Jyestha Shukla, when Special puja and processions are held in his remembrance.

International Yoga Day
Worldwide
21st June 2018

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Centuries ago, a great Indian sage named Patanjali wrote the ‘Yoga Sutra’ – an exhaustive documentation on the art and science of yoga, where he recommended eight stages of yogic discipline.Years from then, yoga still subsists as a way of life for most Indians and people all over the world. Such has its significance grown in the last decade that a special day was launched to honor the phenomenon in 2015. Since then, the International Yoga Day acclaims the art of righteous living and the attainment of the physical, mental and spiritual wellness.

Ambubachi Mela
Kamakhya Temple, Guwahati (Assam)
22nd-25th June 2018

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One of the most unique and popular festivals of India, the Ambubachi Mela attracts pilgrims from all over the country. This festival is distinctive in its own right, and stoutly confronts many of the usual temple customs. It is believed that during this time of the year, typically in the monsoons, Devi Kamakhya (a form of Goddess Shakti) goes through her annual menstrual cycle. Owing to legends, the Kamakhya temple is regarded as one of the Shakti Peethas, and this spot was where the yoni (vulva) part of the Goddess’ body fell. During the festival, the temple doors remain closed for three days. No idol of the deity is in display. Instead She is worshiped in form of a black yoni-like stone. All other daily worship, religious performances and farming procedures are suspended at that time. On the fourth day, the temple doors are opened, when the deity is believed to have attained fertility and She blesses the land with good crops. Shreds of red cloth is distributed among devotees as an offering by the God.

Sao Joao Feast
Across Goa, mainly Siolim
24th June 2018

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Abound with flowers, feni and lots of fun, Sao Joao is an exclusive fiesta made only for the newlyweds. The festival involves husbands wearing floral wreaths on their heads, getting drunk on feni (a locally procured alcoholic drink) and then jumping into wells to impress their wives. Too much fun! And if only the rains begin while the festival is still underway, which it often does, the entire level of merriment shoots up by scores.The feast is absolutely delightful, fresh and local; and the quirky Goan dance and music perfectly leitmotifs the event. Makes for some very memorable moments, to be savored for life by the participating young couples.

Hemis Festival
Ladakh and Jammu & Kashmir
26th-27th June 2018

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According to popular belief, the festival of Hemis is primarily a religious affair. However, there may be more layers of significance around this event if one thinks about it. The Hemis monastery, the largest Buddhist monastery in Ladakh, forms the pivot point of all festivities. The masked dances, also known as ‘Chham Dance’, illustrate triumph of good over bad, and are thus the highlights of this festival. Some sacred plays are also an important part of this festival, as are ‘Devil Dances’. ‘Chang’, a local liquor is served publicly. Also, Exhibition of striking handicrafts adds to the charm of the gala. The lamas from the local community pose as artistes and perform to local folk music. The head Lama or ‘Rinpoche’ is the presiding person of the event. As per traditions, these monks wear long gowns, elaborate masks and a headgear. Every mask holds a special significance associated with it. The extravagant dance rituals along with soulful music keeps spectators spellbound in bliss.

Kabirdas Jayanti
All over India
28th June 2018

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All know that the drop merges into the ocean, but few know that the ocean merges into the drop.” – Sant Kabir

One of India’s highly celebrated and revered poet-saints, Kabir Das, was born in the 15th century in the holy city of Benaras, Uttar Pradesh. Till date, his birth remains a mystery and a thing of legends, where a definite consensus has still not been reached whether he was Hindu or Muslim. His esteemed works and poems describe the greatness and oneness of the Supreme Being. Kabir Jayanti commemorates the birth anniversary of such distinguished poet.It is celebrated on Purnima or full moon day, during the month of ‘Jyesta’ as per the traditional Hindu calendar. Poems of Sant Kabir Das are recited with great fervor among his followers. Various meetings and satsangs are held in different places. Religious sermons are held at Kabirchaura Math in Benaras where religious and spiritual leaders preach his teachings to the common man. In certain places a procession called the ‘Shobhayatra’ is taken out that culminates in the Kabir temple of that location.

Posted in Festive India, Local Culture